fuzzyping

I'm happy with my current setup, but I think the imaging and midbass could be improved. Here is my current system: Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-P5900iB Front Stage: JBL P650c comps (tweeter in sail panel, woofer in door panel) FS Amp: Sundown Audio SAX-100.4 (active) Subwoofer: SoundSplinter RL-i8 SS Amp: Sundown Audio SAX-100.2 (bridged @ 8 ohms) The tweeters are mostly on-axis, so I get very little front/center imaging. I was thinking about getting a set of Q-Logic kick panels for my 4Runner, moving the JBL comps there, and getting dedicated midbass drivers for the doors. Space in the doors is very limited; I originally bought Seas comps but they won't fit. The proposed plans: Move the JBL or Seas comps to the kick panels. Add a set of 6.5" midbass drivers to the door. Use the 100.2 for midbass and get a SAE-1000D for the sub. ??? Nothing, leave it alone. If #1, what midbass drivers would you recommend? -J.

Fitty Tucking FTW!

Literacy is so 2006.

bump for ///M5

Aaron and Mark are the type of vendor that you can really appreciate. They offer good deals on great products, and their service and support go above and beyond. Anytime I have a question in the SSA forums (which they offer up for free, I might add), it's a good bet that one of them will jump in with a qualified recommendation. Not only are they in the business of selling high-end audio equipment, but you can tell that they're really passionate about it in their own vehicles and homes. It's this hands-on approach that really separates them from the churn-and-burn audio retailers. Case in point, I recently purchased a pair of Sundown Audio SAX-100.2 and SAX-100.4 amplifiers from SSA. Aaron went out of his way to hand-deliver the amps to me personally, on a Saturday! Granted, we both live in Maryland... but I know I wouldn't get that sort of treatment from Tweeter!

foo

Definitely, I just mentioned it since it's going to be easier to get 3" out of the kick panel than the door panel.

I should also mention that the midbass drivers could go in kick panels with the tweeters, leaving the JBL midrange drivers in the door. The Q-Logic C-Series panels are supposed to fit up to 6.5 x 3".

Tons of choices, but it will depend on: budget space (size in depth and diameter) necessary frequency range power handling the tweeter/mid that it will be mated with And most importantly the install. <-- I can't say enough about this, it trumps all other factors in my book. budget - No set budget, finding something that fits and sounds good is a higher priority. space - There seems to be around 3" from the door panel to the window track, requiring a spacer approx 0.5". The Seas CA18RLY basket wouldn't fit in the factory assembly, but I think it can be replaced with a custom baffle. I'll try to get some pics up this evening. range - Hard to say, denim would have a better idea here (I trust his ears and knowledge). Sounds like I need to cross my P650c woofer to have it focus on the midrange and bring in a new midbass to bridge down to my RL-i8 (currently sealed, soon in a T-Box). power handling - Probably the SAX-100.2 which is currently powering my RL-i8. current tweeter/mid - JBL P650c components

I was just giving you a hard time. Any recommendations on midbass drivers?

Is it better to house the tweeters in kick panels instead of the sail panels? I can imagine getting a set of kicks for the mids and tweets, and putting some midbass in the doors. Presumably the kick panels will have enough room for the Seas comps I already have (RNX). Do you think the Seas would sound better than the JBL P650c's? Too many choices!

Do yourself a favor... go sealed and never look back! If you hear the RL-i's in a ported box, you'll love how smooth and clean they sound and will never want to go back to sealed. Goodbye trunk space!

So I meet denim on Friday to give him my old box. I turn on the stereo to demo it for him and we immediately hear mechanical noise coming from the sub... WTF??! He suggested I check the seal on the sub, sure enough there must have been a gap in the seal. *whew* For what it's worth, I thought my front stage sounded pretty good... until you listened to it. Then it became painfully obvious I have imaging problems. Argh!!!

Just email Pete and see if he'll give/sell you the blueprints.

See if you can get the blueprints for Hellboy.

I just got done adding RAAMmat to my first door. Went fine, easy to work with.

If you don't need the USB support, stick with the 590UB or 5900iB and save some dollars.

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the SoundSplinter RL-i series.

I can't post the detailed dimensions, but the design is right there above ^^^ .

Sorry for the n00b/OT question, but what is the relationship between Fi and AA? Thanks, -J.

How To: Set Your Amplifier Gain

Thanks, it was my first attempt at a real CA installation. That box takes up just under half of the floor space in the back, up to 10" high. Still plenty of room for gear, but it is a fairly large box for a 8". With that in mind... I noticed that the enclosure has a ripple in the low end which bothers me on certain songs. I'm donating the box to denim and building a new one based on a design from Hexibase.

You won't be disappointed. My RL-i8 pounds (very clean and smooth) with only a SAX-100.2 at 8 ohms in a poorly-designed horn enclosure. I can't wait to rebuild my box this weekend.. waiting on a new T-Box design from HexiBase.

I'd love to get one for my 4Runner and move the 100.2 to rear fill, but I've got nowhere to hide a 3rd amp!