XTRMEASURES

welcome jamie

oh hell yea its tru cant wait to start on this, im going to be getting the jeep today. at first we going to use stuff i have around the house, then later start buying. im thinking of maybe the monster 8 from ED w/ about 2000w. jamie

so look out for TEAM BUFFORD in the lanes...LOL the team members are my son, daughter, wife and myself...LOL look out world hear we come...LOL jamie

just like to say that my little boy will be in the lanes this year. he's 5 yrs old and going to compete in the mini SPL cars. so hopefully we'll be finish with it in about a month or so. wish him luck jamie

yes i think theres should be guide lines to join.... jamie

sign me up jamie

hell yea i think those would give the DD9515d a run for its money hopefully ill have my new system in by then... jamie

now now jamie.....you should already know about my dd..you heard it at the show...lol!!! yea thats why i asked...lol my 8" sub hits almost as hard plus sounds better... j/p :boink: jamie yea ok jamie. i'd love to see your 8" hit that hard. charles lol i sayed ALMOST but you lucky i took it out to start my usaci install cuz we could had a challenge if you would have gave me a 4db head start plus only had 200w to it :boink: but i guess well hever know later man jamie

thanks shane jamie

also what does the person get if he joins?? besides help from others?? jamie

do you have to pay to join the teams?? jamie

yea go to radioshack and get the db meter that goes up to 120db... (it cheap then when u finish return it back) put a sealed box with any type of sub... make a cd with test tones like from 20-80hz start playing the cd going through all the hz to see which is the loudest on the meter... it very easy to do good luck jamie

now now jamie.....you should already know about my dd..you heard it at the show...lol!!! yea thats why i asked...lol my 8" sub hits almost as hard plus sounds better... j/p :boink: jamie

im starting this post to see whats your favorite brand of choice. please dont bash if somebody says a brand you THINK is not good. one of my all time favorite is ORION because they keep it simple with only a few items but are all good. my other ones are CROSSFIRE, PLANET AUDIO, ID, ED, RE just to name a few. these would be my frist picks if i had to build a system. now what are yours....... jamie

welcome my new friend jamie

i have one question, how do one get started on a team or became part of a team.... jamie

is that a good sub...lol jamie

welcome to the forum yea f-bodys are nice to play with i just finished my cousins car and it came out ok i guess (wish i had a bigger budget on it) jamie

welcome jamie

^^^some good reading^^^ jamie edit denim: Pin worthy

i am writeing this to try and help people understand what the specs of there amps mean. i'm not a expert on amps but i know enough to write this. when chooseing a amp theres many thing to look at like class a/b or class d and if you need a 2ch, 4ch or mono amp it go's on and on. ....so here it go's.... (in random order) you will need to know if you need a class a/b. class d ect ect. they are many types of class's like a, b, , c, a/b, d, t, x but the one's you see more in car audio is a/b and d. now there are more and more class t amps comming out because the price to build them are going down. CLASS A: these amps have an output device that never turns off, so they are always conducting current. and known to be more linear (this means it will sound better then most amps but this is only in theory) now because the output never turns off they are very inefficient which in turns cause heat.on a side note class a amp were the first type of amps. CLASS B: these amps were built in place of class a to inprove there efficiency. most techs callthis type of amp (push-pull) because of the fact they have 2 output devices. one positive and one negative side of the waveform. this makes the amp turn off the output device when there is no signal to the amp, so helping the heat issue of the class a amp.but the drawback of these amps is the distortionat the point when the waveform is handed over to the output device with opposite polarity. at low levels the distotion will be audible. CLASS A/B: this type of amps combines the class a and class b to help pervent the drawbacks of each amp.it will conduct current like a class a at low levels, but as it goes up it starts to act like a class bamp. so this is the reason why you see more class a/b amps in car audio. CLASS C: i'm not going to get into class c because we dont see this type of amps in car audio. CLASS D: these amps are known as switching amplifier or a digital amplifier. although it may appear digetal, these amps are NOT. because of the pulse are done by analog. these amps are more efficient because there either completely on or completely off. with neither of them producing very much power. there is also class t amps but im going to get into that right now. (maybe later) the ones to look for is class a/b and class d. class a/b are uselly for your highs/mids and the class d is for your subs. but class a/b are known to sound better then class d on subs. SIGNAL TO NOISE RATIO: these signals are rated in decibels (db) and the higher the db the better.this measurement is the difference betweenthe noise floor and the refernce level which is different from manufactures. but the important thing is a value of around 100db is good. TOTAL HARMONIC DISTORTION (THD): this is the distortion made by the amp because all amps are not perfectly linear. the thing to look for is a THD around .5%. so anything below that will be better. DAMPING FACTOR: the higher the DF the better, it will help pervent hangover. hangover is when the subs cone moves up and comes back down but the cone will vibrate tell it reaches full rest. (not good for SQ) this can make the sound of the sub sound booming. so anything around 150 is good. this is all im going to write right now i will be back with more... hope this helps a few people out understanding what to look at when your looking at your spec sheet of your amp. jamie

welcome jamie

yea the PPI unit is very nice i have one that im putting back in my project car. jamie

yea i know it was just to see what type of score we would do... im not going to do to much more testing in the camaro but im getting a termlab meter so ill be haveing fun with my other cars with other subs... jamie

ok ok you got me... lol ill meter you for free jamie