Erotomania

okay new here and was told that you guys could definitely put me in at least a general direction. here goes I have a customer who had three 12" L7's powered by 3 hifonics bx11200's in the trunk of his 96 J30. the box it self was a sealed, non-separated, box that was just big enough to wrap around the woofers and fire at the rear with the box jutted up against the gas tank that resides there. he is asking if there is any way to build a box that would be noticeably louder yet still retain the punch of such a constrained box. he doesn't mind the loss of his trunk so but the real challenge is figuring out how to get the sound to penetrate through the obstacles within the trunk . I have suggested running a port up into the rear speaker holes. but that still leaves me the challenge of recreating the"punch" of the smaller sealed non separated enclosure. would building a larger, separated sealed box offer somewhat of a solution to this? just need some more brains to get this train rolling. anything would be helpful,so thanks in advance. Would like to just add, in case you are not so familiar with the Infinity J30, the gas tank is in the back of the trunk, like barrier between the trunk and cabin of the car. This is why I suggest maybe vent porting through the rear deck.

It's actually going in a extended cab ford ranger haha Should I still go with the 12sq inches of port opening per sq foot of box? How do I figure out the length of the port if I tuned to 35hz? Sorry for all the newb questions.

The guys at kicker said to tune to 39hz for 4x12" CVR's in a 9sq foot box. I don't see many people tuning much higher than 35hz though. So should I take their word for it and tune for 39hz or drop down to 35? This is my first ported box so, I'm somewhat at a loss.

In my opinion, The kicker L7's make a strange sound. Maybe its just me or what, but I hate the way they sound. I would go for a Fi set up. There is nothing special about having 4 woofers pounding, but have 2 do just as much damage will get some attention. I mean, there is a guy locally who has 6 12" Pyle blue wave's in his tahoe, and sure it is loud and all but 2 Fi's would be just as loud and sound better.

To me, that's the sign that something's wrong with the midbass... Agreed, The woofer breaks up very quickly with any amount of bass and volume. The DB component set is good for the price if you have good woofers. If you don't have any subs or you are looking for a good punch out of the doors you'll never get it out of the DB's. They are just a little less harsh than the momos. The momos have a nearly skyhigh headroom.

I've got the brutus 2000W, 1600W, and 1200W versions to work with. I have kicker amps also but none worthwhile or able to dish out enough power. Speaker wise, I can go with the kappa's for just as cheap. In all reality I may have to go with the kappa's for size. The momos are huge speakers. Wouldn't 2 amps pull a higher amp draw than one? Even the 1600 would have to have rather high gain. I like the db's also. If you cut out the right amount of bass from the woofer they have a little sweet sound than the momo. I have a set of DB tweeters and I love them. They sit in the dash of a ranger right now firing at the windshield and they create one hell of a front stage.

Are the Brutus amps really that bad? I mean, I'm not blessed to be able to install many high end amps on a frequent basis but I've had good luck with the hifonics amps. Especially when you can get the 2000W for 300 bucks. Regardless, what other amps should I look into and what kind of power should I be looking for? The rear speakers are 45 bucks for me? I don't think 45 bucks will help add on better front staging. Still I may bail on the rears because my rear window is so close to you it really projects ANY highs. What about using maybe a pair of the MB Quart 6.5" midbass woofers in the rear?

I searched but didn't get anything, maybe I didnt search the right thing. I've finally snagged a new engine for my prelude so, she'll be running again and I'm building a new system. I've decided on 2x12 Q's and I'm curious to if a Brutus 2000W mono can power two? I've always been curious how exactly subs share power to one amp? Do they see the same power or is it cut in half? or what? I can get the Brutus cheap at work so I don't know If I should run one 2000W or 2x1200W amps. So far the build will include Polk momo components and (not my choice of speakers but not too bad when you can get them for $130) Hifonics Zeus 4 channel Polk DB 6.5 Rears Probobly a Pioneer DEH6900 or maybe a DEH-P880PRS I've still yet to investigate what my alternator options are with my engine. The one it has works perfect its just a 90amp which definately wont cut it. Anyone with some input on good alternator options would be great.

I'm Scott, out of Atlanta Georgia. I'm a up and coming/learning installer. Currently at Fry's Electronics. I've been learning on my own, making every mistake in the books since I was 15 and my buddy got his first car. I'm now only 19, and 3 months into being a working installer. So far worked on some really cool cars, done some pretty cool installs. Just a few pics of my favorite installs so far. I'm more of an SQ guy but I'm getting into SPL. Something about seeing metal flex like rubber puts a smile on my face. I look forward to learning a lot here, I can tell there is already a lot for me to read through and that this is an exceptionally knowledgeable forum!

My personal car is a 1991 Honda Prelude and I've been dreaming up ways of upgrading the system from its rather small old rockford p2 set up(old school black and red coned rockford p2s). The car is small, the trunk is even smaller, comparable to a mustang trunk. The trunk opening is much like a mustang, opens like a lid with rather small clearances. I'm thinking of putting a dual BL 12" set up in it, building the box inside the trunk to achieve hopefully around 4 square feet. The rear seats are gone, so there is an opening to the trunk, would it sound good to place the port in that opening? I know not to cover a port but I've never heard anything rather direction or placement having pros or cons.

I really like my 3 10" set up for metal, its a kicker CVR 3x10" in a partitioned 4 square foot sealed box. It does well for rap too. Not like a set of 12s will. I'm no pro on Fi stuff, but the Q's seem to fit your needs. Depending on the car and set up the Q's should lay down some SPL for you to be competitive in. In all reality the Q being aimed for a SQ sub is one very powerful SQ sub, and with that in mind, it should be well capable of laying down a lot of SPL.

We charge about those prices with a standard box design. After seeing one of our boxes basicly launch one of those terminal cups we drill holes for the wires and silicone seal them with a 1/4" round plate to make it pretty.

Thanks for all the input, I'm for the most part new to everything. I'm working as an installer now, and I like to think I'm pretty good for the work I've done so far but I'm looking to kick it up a bit and get into the bigger set ups. Maybe a 4 18" BTL set up will meet our needs. Could 4 Hifonics Brutus 2006D amps power something like that? I know its recommended 5-8 Sq feet for a 18" BTL, but what would you guys recommend 4 sit in?

Using 10s and 12's really helped our CVR's catch everything, the 12's dont handle higher ranges well. Especially with the airspace we gave them. The system is getting a complete strip down and rebuild. Another thing...We inverted our CRV's for cooling because they were cooking themselves mounted normally. Once inverted we could run them hard all day without any problems. If you were to run the BL with the P chamfer option, would inverting help the heat or just lose efficiency?

Well, we just slopped together a set up for this years nopi nationals in atlanta. It was 3 kicker CVR 12's in a partitioned sealed box feeding each sub 2.4 square feet, and also 3 kicker CVR 10's in a partitioned box feeding each about 1.6 square feet. They were stacked and put in the back of a 98' Durango no extra battery, not even another cap. Powered it by 2 Crunch Powerzone 1000W 2 channels. We ran the stock USAC 1801-3001 class, and did well. Hit 141.2SPL at 56Hz beating several guys running memphis 15's. Regardless, we are gearing up for next year to be much bigger and louder. This year's set up was built in 2 days with subs from various cars just thrown together into one big build. I'm debating between running Q's or BL's. We want daily listening possible and want it to still handle music. We want the 150SPL ballpark. Do you think 3 Q 10's and 3 Q 12's could lay down that kind of power?