hayes55987

Hey guys, I have an 18" BL running at about 1200 watts and this thing moves air. I've had some problems with my rear deck flapping up and down no matter how much I seal it off. It seems air is always getting into it. It will even start shaking my rear seats and moving them in and out (they are foldable). My rear speakers currently are a sealed speaker. In such that they are an older JBL pair I got from a friend's lincoln. So the cone isn't being moved or anything by the air. I don't ever use rear fil, i just threw them in there to help seal up the rear deck and so on. My question is this though...by attempting to seal up the rear deck (dynamating it, covering all the holes, filling it in with speakers), am I just killing my ouput and maybe possibly getting myself in over my head in terms of trying to stop all the air from rattle my rear deck cover? Should I just take the rear speakers out and let it "blowthrough" the rear deck? Does this like "channel" the air in a way to help reduce the pressure and so on?

yea, I figured the output would drop some. But at the same time, rear firing is supposed to be the best set-up for a trunked system (generically thinking). so i'm hoping that will help a bit. as for the options though, i only have around 1200 to play with. Due to my amp and the fact my electrical system is at its max. my 18 BL right now has full daily options (daily option, cooling, flatwind). If i get the 15" BL with like only a p chamfer...will that fit my wattage better? Because I don't believe I have enough to run a fully loaded BL. I guess in summary...is the flatwind going to hurt me more or help me if I can't fulfill th wattage requirements for it?

yea...as for "running" a 3000 watt. The main thing is that there's a difference between having the amp turn on and having the amp put out its power without killing your electrical system. that amp will put some serious strain on your electrical. Big 3, alt, batt like was posted before.

yea...what sorts of comparisons do these have to the other line-up?? the prices look ridiculous though!!!

if you are looking for LSQ...the Q may be your better option. But thats all based on your definition of SQ. As for which sub suits you better...we need a lot more information about your current system. Can you fit the needed box size? (I have the 18" BL all options daily and I have found its way to big for what I wanted. Sometimes bigger isn't always better depending on your situation) Do you have a powerful enough amp to run it? (if you're getting all of the options for a daily, 1000rms is considered "underpowered" by many with the flatwind and cooling. I'd say look at above 1000 if you are getting all of the options for it) Also...this sub gets loud with the right box and power. Do you have fronts to keep up with it? The options you have listed are fine except for the extreme lead. Sometimes it can rub against the cone and can make the leads slap. Thats an SPL oriented option.

ok guys, currently now I have an 18" BL fully loaded for daily. Its being powered by a JBL BP1200.1 at 1200 watts. Its in a 5 cu ft box tuned to 30Hz firing upward. The reason it is firing upward is because I cannot fit an 18" into my trunk rear facing. With a 15" though...I would be able to fit it rear firing into my trunk. So my question is...what sort of difference would i see? obviously i'd see a drop in ouput i'd imagine...but at the saem time, would it be noticable? Right now my BL is fully loaded for daily driving (daily option, flat wind, cooling). So at 1200 watts, even though its 200 over RMS, it isn't really pushing the sub to that much of its capability im guessing. So if I were to get a 15" with 1200 watts, no options except maybe P chamfer...and then in a 5 cu ft box also tuned to like...30Hz also. maybe a bit higher like 32 to squeeze some more SPL out of it. Do you think I would see a noticable decrease in ouput? granted that I don't play my system super loud all the time. Just to "demo" to friends i guess you could say. Sorry if this is confusing, but maybe you can see what im saying. This horizontal mounting this is just really annoying me for some reason and if possible, i'd of course like to do the rear facing mount as much as possible.

I'd say look at your electrical upgrades. Thats putting some serious strain on your car. What types of upgrades have you done???

Hey guys! got a quick question. Just picked up an iPod and hooked it up to my alpine deck. my question is....is it possible to get the iPod to turn completely off when i shut off my car? Or does it turn off ocmpletely on its own? or just go into sleep? im sorta confused. I know the screen blacks out. but i'm not sure if its off or if its in sleep. I haven't turned it off long enough to tell if tis in "deep sleep" and watnot, but im hoping to just be able to leave this thing in my glvoebox and control it all through the head unit let me know if you have any ideas!!

Hey guys, I've been messing around with ideas for my subwoofer and I have a way maybe that'll help with my predicament. Currently, I have a 1995 Honda Accord Sedan and the 18" is to big I believe to fit in rear facing. Currently I have it horizontally mounted. However...after looking through some of the build logs, I am debating about whether doing a slanted box or not. My question to you guys is, what types of effects will I see of this? Ideally, I wanted to do it rear facing. But i dont think that will happen. So i've compromised with it angled. it will still be around a 5 cu ft box and about a 60 degree angle the subw ill be mounted on. Any big difference you guys think before i even attempt to think about rebuilding a box? OR anyone out there with a 1995ish accord know of any solutions to this problem?

haha yea...well i mean i realize the BTL power rating was a big thing. As for the BL, 1400 watts isn't enough to run a BL?? Overall though, I realize i'm asking for something thats sort of impossible. With my current power situation and what not. Lets try a new approach. What would happen If i were to downgrade to the 15 BL with the same amount of power? What would happen if I were to upgrade the amp to say...hifonics 2006D (2000 @ 1 ohm) and ran a 15" BTL? How much louder would this be? and i realize that SQ depends a lot on the user, but would there be a noticeable difference in your opinions on SQ? These would once again be going in around a 5 cu ft...maybe 5.5 cu ft box in my trunk. Hopefully I can get some more help with this tactic

haha yea...well like i mean like if I have an 18"...sony xplod lets say theoretically and i want better SPL with a 10", I could get a 10" BTL or something like that and i'd save space and it'd be louder, etc thats sorta my question. Like because the BL isn't the "loudest" on Fi's lineup, if i go down a size, but up a level, what will improve and what will decrease going from a BL to a BTL? and like...if I were to get 2 12" Q's to replace my 18" BL, how does that compare? i'm looking for help on opinions like that

hey guys! looking over my sub right now and currently I have an 18 BL full loaded for daily driving. I originially had bought it to use it in an SPL comp I had that weekend and upon buying it, I have realied I don't have near enough room in my trunk. I have a maximum of 5 cu ft in my trunk (honda accord 1995) and this sub is screaming for more volume. Its so big the only way I could place it in was horizontally mounted. So, my question is this. Is there another sub or two subs that I can power with a size of 15" or less that'll do the same as this 18" BL but more reasonably. lol, sorry if that doesn't make any sense. For example though, I was looking at the 15" BTL. Can you guys give me some ides of comparable things. I have 1400 watts to run to this thing @ either 1 or 2 ohms. IF you need some more details or anything, lemme know!

Hey guys, i have a question about box size for the BL. I have an 18" BL fully loaded and its going to be going into the trunk of a 1995 Honda Accord Sedan. Currently, the box is mounted horizontally because I needed to do that to get the minimum size of 5 cu ft. However, after taking up the entire trunk in my car and having the subwooferer horizontal. I'm wondering what the minimum size you guys could see? I'm hoping to still keep it ported somewhat low...at around 32hz or so. I realize this goes against all of hoffman's Iron Law and what not, but what are your guys best ideas for this? I'll sum it up for you: Current Box: Subwoofer mounted horizontal 5 cu ft box @ 29Hz Ports Back Wishes for new Box: Subwoofer mounted vertically ? cu ft box @ 35Hz or lower Ports facing same was as subwoofer Dimesnsions I have to work with 32" Wide 18" High 30" Deep (However, I need this to be somewhat short because with the height being so close, for it to drop in it needs to be as short as possible. All others though can be as wide as needed) Now that i read this though, it seems sort of stupid because i could just make it as short as needed, the max the rest of the dimensions. However, Mainly I guess then how small of cu ft do you think I can get away with?? thanks!

So in conclusion then...its not looking like anything I need to worry about??

Hey guys, I have a question about horizontal mounting a subwoofer. I've read various articles on it, looked at the sag factor tech page from adire, and etc... still, i've heard some convincing things about it still not being good. Here's my question for you: I have an 18" BL full loaded and its horizontally mounted. I ran the sag factor equation from adire and it meets the "criteria" of mounting horizontal. however, iv'e heard also that with gravity...it doesnt matter because gravity pulls down on it more and therefore i get more distortion, etc. whats the low down on this? Am i in some bad shape with having my sub horizontal? normally I mount my subs in the typical, firing back way, but with this being an 18", size wise I could only mount it in horizontal. gimme your thoughts on this one! thanks!!!!

my box volume is 5 cubic feet now if i seal off one of the ports, i will have 5.15 cu ft as for the narrowness, i probably should have rethought it and went higher. I was worried about about the mounting depth of the BL because i think i am somewhere around 1.5 to 2 inches of clearnace right now above the port. However, i definetely hsould have thought of it before and I'm sure i could have gotten creative with it.

I have slot ports. dimensions are: 22" Deep, 2" High, 30.5" Wide however, i have braces along them and think I am going to block up one of the braced areas. It would bring my dimensions too 22" Deep, 2" High, 21" Wide I think what I'm going to do is just try it and see how it sounds. I will just cut out the MDF, throw it into the port to seal it up, and if it sounds fine, figure out a more permanent seal with silicone and what not. if its not so good, then i'll take it back out and figure out what to do from there. as for the box programs not being that accurate. I'm aware of the SPL and cabin gain and all those things being way different. but shouldn't the vent velocity be the same? I didn't think that much would differ based on whether it was in an automotive enviroment or not.

Hey guys, i recently built a box for my 18" BL and i realized it doesnt really have the low end that I am looking for. So, I'm looking at blocking up one of my ports to lower the tuning. my question about this is the vent velocity. currently, its tuned to around 37Hz. if i blocked up one of the ports, i'd lower it down to 31Hz. Vent velocity is what worries me though: at 37Hz, I have a peak of 15.7m/s VV @ 25Hz at 31Hz, I'd have a peak of 22.9m/s VV @ 22Hz; i reach 15.7m/s of VV with the 31Hz tuning @ 34Hz Is it worth it? or will the port noise be to much? the group delay also jumps a little bit, but i'm not to worried about that because it all happens in the 24Hz range and below. Total port area @ 37Hz is...61 in^2 it'd be...@ 31Hz...42 in^2

Ok...so i figure i'd keep you updated and I have another question if its worth it or not. Here's the deal...I took my box back home earlier today, took it back out, took out my router, and then routed out 1/4 of an inch of the mounting circle. now I am able to fit the sub semi-flush mounted into the trunk with the carpet bottom and everything. the only thing I have left after listening to it for a few days is if its worth it for me to seal up one of the ports? I'm tuned to 37 now and if i plug up one of the ports, i'd be down to around...29hz my only concern with this is vent velocity...it goes from 15m/s to 20.5m/s i think if i lower the tuning. I could flare the ports a tiny tiny bit to help. Also, it increases the group delay around 3ms the offsets are obviously a lower tuning and that my excursion goes down to like 19hz before over excursion. let me know if i'll even notice the negatives of the changes or how you think that will work!

as far as jamming it in there. i'm not really that happy with the way it is. I ripped out the bottom and took out the spare tire. I forgot to mention in my first post I think that the box was tight enough that there was no possible way to put any of it back in. So far my plan is to take my router and then on my double baffle, cut out the outside diameter of the sub and flush mount it to give me the extra room to have my spare tire and the carpet floor back in my trunk. Secondly, i can re-tune the box pretty easily by filling up part of the ports and siliconing them in or something like that to tune it lower, but I was worried about vent velocity when I made the box. It peaks at like 18 m/s. but if I tune the box down to say...31Hz, the vent velocity jumps up to 20m/s. is this going to really be noticable? If someone wants to help me out anymore like in live talk, i have AIM and Windows Live. I can send you the BBP file or dimensions or something like that. I will also post the dimensions on here. Current Box: 15" High 32" Wide 27" Deep Port: tuned to 37Hz (the port actually has two braces position every third of the way. so techincally I guess it would be 3 ports of around 9.5" wide each) 2" High 22" Long 30.5" Wide The New Design Maybe? 15" High (but the BL would be flush mounted in one of the baffles and then i'd have clearance to get it in the trunk) 32" Wide 27" Deep Port: Tuned to 28.8Hz ( I have my ports broken up into three technically with the braces, so I would just fill in one of them leaving me with two ports each 9.6" wide, or 19.32" total) 2" High 22" Long 19.32" Wide lemme know what you think! AIM: hayes55987 MSN: [email protected]

Approximetely 1-2 weeks ago, I decided to I needed a new sub. There was a big upcoming sound competition in my town and I needed something to beat a rival of mine that had more money, and more time,haha So I knew Fi was a good place to go. At this point, i was extremely focused on beating my rival and so I decided to go all out with my power options (JBL BP1200.1) and get an 18" BL fully loaded. This worked pretty good for the competition. Didn't do as well as expected, but we tuned the box way to high in a poor guess on our part of the cars freq. it was around 41 and we were tuned for 47-49hz. still, we managed to hit 141.6 at the headrest with 1400 watts of power, stock electrical system, and a 30 second run which really drained the car. After the competition though...it hit me. I have a 1995 Honda Accord and I realized I had to fit an 18" BL into the trunk. I finished the box up yesterday and it...sorta fits in. I had to take out spare tire and everything and angle it in. My question is, what do you guys think of the set-up? Is it cutting things to close? Here are the specs: its a 5.00 cu ft box exactly tuned to 37hz. The port dimensions are 2 in high, 22 inches long, and 30.5 inches wide. Vent Velocity is around...17m/s at max I think. Here are the problems with the box though...I have no subsonic on my amp and the box excursion exceeds the subs at 24Hz. although i am playing mainly music, usually not very loud even, is this that big of a concern? I am not really that worried now because most music never even gets that low and I will avoid playing the classic songs such as Late Night Tip and what not. What do you guys think about the situation I got myself into? haha Thanks!