eclipsepb25

I haven't herd any good things about them or ever seen a notable video. and 95 percent of videos I see of them are people blowing them up on freewill so they can't be too good. haha

alright, i got 2 kinetik 1800s. I was originally just going to take out the stock battery and put one under the hood and the other in the back. But i just want to ask a few more knowledgeable people first, should i just leave the stock battery under my hood in the tundra and put both kinetiks in the back? thanks

well if you got 4 12" wouldnt you need more then a SAZ3000D to power them?

props to the AB xd3000. i got one thats going im my tundra this weekend

id check into an american bass vfl.200

i think one problem all the brands your trying to use from your shop, arent going to help you for youre situation. you should check into the mach5 audio SPL12 and sundown SAZ-3000D combo from the ssa shop. just make sure you get a nice and big ported box with good dimensions and tuned properly. I would seriously consider getting a deep cycle battery or two and go ALL 0g. and your not going to get full potential with that factory POS low out put alternator. you need to come back with your wishes straight because from what i can see youre contradicting your self alot. also highly consider sound proofening your car with some dynamat or other butyl products. defintly do the big 3... if youre trying to compete with six 15" youre going to want to keep your voltage high as possible if your pushing a big enough true-to-power amp for a high thermal capacity sub.

just get a new HO alt and then if something ever happens just throw back on your stock one. its not hard at all, its just undoing a bolt on the bracket and putting the new one on. put the belt on and adjust the tensioner, and then plug back in the harness. and then of course your + wire to battery.

holy chit!!! haha, i didnt even realize the 0/4g... i just automatically looked at it and assumed 4 gauge. i bet that wire routing was a bitch to do

what type of tool is this and is it big enough to fit 0g?

well i hope it doesnt, but i mean i could understand if it was like welded or something, haha. but solder isnt too hard of a metal, so i mean unless you caked it on there it could come off with enough movement and wiggling i would imagine. maybe ill crimp it and then put solder on there just to be safe.

if you do it that way though, do you still crimp it slightly? or do you do that after you crimp it? because solder can break off fairly easily right?

alright, shouldnt be a problem... i bought a whole roll of 0g kolossus fleks from knukonceptz. as far as the vise goes, i never have thought of that but sounds like a great idea. i bought a bunch of extra ring terms. though bc i want to do the big 3 too.

question 1) what in the world do i use to crimp the ring terminals on my 0g wire???? or what should i say is the best and most efficient way to do it. i mean, if i have to i will go out and buy a special tool but i wouldnt even know what tool to buy because ive never seen a crimper that big. question 2) if i have two kinetiks, one in the back & one under the hood, should i ground my amps to the negative terminal or still to the chassis? and i was also wondering do i still need to send a wire from the neg. terminal on the battery in the back back to the chassis somewhere? thanks -wes

can some one please give me an opinion on what fuse size for the RF amp and what size for the AB amp... and im guessing 350 on the two under the hood sound good. thanks

ok i think i decided what im going to do... from the pos. terminal in the back ill send a 0g out to the AB and then a 4g line to the RF. Then ill just put an inline fuse holder on each of those lines but im still question what size on each line. Should i go with ANL on the AB and a mini ANL on the RF or ANLs on both of them? And ill go ahead and do the 350 on the lines under the hood.

alright... can you give me some recommendations on a block for in the back. that was the only one i could find that knukonceptz sell but im open to anything. If you know one with a 0g in with 0g & 4g out that uses regular ANL fuses let me know please. Especially im looking for one with the digital voltage readout would be nice. moneys not really a huge factor, just give me a recommendation please and what size the two fuses should be on the AB and RF amp outs. thanks

from what ive heard the PCA is slightly overrated, but my friend had the kicker 1500 and it was actually underrated and powered his subs awesome but the amp gave out after only 3 months and the people at kicker were being dicks and hardasses about the warranty.

i dont want to second guess myself so im trying to get another opinion on a good estimation of what size fuses i need to get. what im running is a kinetik 1800 in the hood and a kinetik 1800 in the back of tundra (ext. cab with seats taking out) with 2 runs of 0g. i have a 180 amp alt under the hood complete with the big 3 all in 0g. I have two ANL inline holders, one in the wire right after the + terminal on the kinetik in the hood and then one on the wire in between the alt and + terminal on the kinetik under the hood. What size should i get for those two (they should both be the same right)? are there any other places that would be ideal to place an inline fuse. then i have a distru. block with a 0g in and out of it is a 0g to my american bass XD3000 and a 4g runnning to my RF punch 400-2. The fuses in the block are mini ANLs. what size should i get for the AB amp and what size for the RF amp. This is going to be my first big install including thousands of dollars worth of audio equipment that i have worked hard for to save up for a while and i really dont want to be blowing anything. I'd like to do it right the first time with no mistakes or uh-ohs. Please give me some advice audio experts!

its defintly a solid enough amp to be .5 ohm stable as long as its installed properly and you have all the settings set good. god though, i dont know what you would have that needs to of these stapped at .5 ohm each. with good voltage you'll probably be putting out around 8000 watts. they say it puts outs 4000 each at 1 ohm..... but they are a little bit over rated. not nearly as bad as my AB XD3000 though... those are over rated alot, but still incredibly solid amps. youre going to have to have a crazy electrical system to support them though. goto caraudioforums.com, there are alot of AB users, fans, and enthusiasts over there.

seriously steve, if it werent for your crazy youtube videos... i never would have even knew about Fi. thank god you've spread the love.

ok... so i know everyone has already seen one before but everyone also knows when you get it in the mail all you want to do is show it off. incredibly sexy, dont hate. just love. 15" D1 BTL cooling, 3rd mag, hixm coil, daily. In 6.5 cube ported box with internal spine bracing. 5 cubes after sub, port, and bracing displacement tuned to 39hz. thanks to Josh Salrin at www.finecustomworks.com

knukonceptz!!! great for the money and awesome customer service. more really so on their power wire but i have the karma RCAs on my sub amp and the krystal RCAs on my speaker amp. havent finished installing, but they look serious... not cheap

purrrrrfect. lets pleeeeaaassse get some batteries going on in the group sale =]=]=]

earthquake amps are really underrated, i would've gone with something else. as for the filter i would defintly go with 30hz.

earthquake amps are really underrated, i would've gone with something else. as for the filter i would defintly go with 30hz.