mlcantin

This solution is muhc better than just having two batteries connected without an isolator right?

I made a wording error. I am going to be buying an isolator

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_46583_NVX-BIR500.html What kind of automatic isolator is this? Solenoid or Diode based isolator?

Hooking it up is my concern

I don't understand this. It is currently jibberish to me. Research seems to be neccesary but do you know of a video that shows how to install one? I looked on youtube and couldn't find a video.

I have an isolator

no iPods don't have volume control on them lol

I bought the most expensive stingers

new rcas I guess

How am i supposed to control the volume on the head unit if i plug the ipod directly into the amp? I wont have any volume control

Just ordered the rca aux cable. I will see what the problem is in a few days

Mkay

No you are not a retard it is probably me that is a retard and it is really ticking me off.

New finding which i find bizarre and doesnt make any sense to me. So i checked the ohm reading on my subwoofer. Each voice coil read two ohms which is correct because it is a 4 ohm subwoofer. Then I checked the wiring by checking the ohm reading on the in box speaker wire connections. It read 2 ohms which is good. Then I check the ohm reading for the speaker wiring running from the outside of the box connections to the amp and it read 16 kilo ohms and kept rising up and up. This makes absolutely no sense to me and I tried it on both aforementioned amps. I am becoming seriously frustrated as my system was acting fine until this morning.

Should I plug them into the rca outs on the head unit?

Don't most amps do this?

Peramp voltage? Its 2 is what the headunit is required to have

What should the voltage read between?

How does your amp tell you? If you say you know your amp is good and you know your subs are good then its going to be your head unit or rca wire My amp goes into protect mode for several reasons and it tells you which reason by the number of times the protect mode flashes per second. It isnt in protect mode at all so nothing is wrong with the subs or amp.

haven't checked that. I have a multimeter that can check that. what wires do I need to connect it to

my amp would tell me if my subwoofer was wired wrong plus I know how to wire subs

and not a chance the amp would tell me if it was blown

And what should I use as a signal source?

if what source works? and I know my Kenwood amp is good because I used it once and swapped due to lack of power. The subwoofer control on the head unit was turned on. I think something blow when I turned the car on

So today i turned on my car while leaving class and decided to bump on the way home. Well i couldn't because my sub wasn't working. It was working before class. I got home and hooked up my other working sub which i decided to upgrade from (VIBE slick) and that did not work either. I know for a fact that the vibe isn't blown and my amp tells me when a sub is blown, wired wrong etc. The amp said everything was fine. So i hooked up my old amp (a kenwood) and that amp didn't work either with both subs. I can't stress enough that the VIBE is a good working subwoofer. I checked all of my fuses under the hood and none of them are blown. Neither are the fuses on both of the amps. I took a multimeter to check ohms and my ground was way less than half an ohm resistance which is good. I don't understand why nothing is working. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what may be the problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Matthew