todd.brust

You won't believe what I've seen at work. Never doubt the stupidity of people. Sorry about the ADD though, I forgot what else I was going to say.

Agreed.

Casey, get it right, I never said it was wrong. I suggested running off your ACC wire in your ignition harness, fuse it and not have to worry about blowing out your remote on your cd player. Then you could eliminate a big ugly relay and clean up some of those wires! F-ing nOOb

I have a Towncar so it's heavy as hell to begin with. Nothing wrong with a little extra weight. You can always donate the mat to fellow SSA members like myself. lol

What you have heard might be from people who have no idea what they are talking about. Alpines are fine, but FAR from best. I always just look on ebay and dream of getting a Mac or Denon Z1 HU. Sooo nice.

I need the bastard who hit my car get his insurance chit going so I can put my Dynamat in and possibly those Kodas. I have like 30 sq. ft. for my front doors!

Summer class, boo, degree Nice work Todd! You're tellin me. The summer class is my fault. I got lazy in my last gen ed and had to drop. Oops. Still managing to graduate above a 3.5!!! No Idea what to do for work yet. Either find an electrical tech. position or go to more school. WSU has an electrical physics course or I can go for computer networking on top of my degree. More school or Job? I can't decide for myself lol

Clean up that wiring arseho! Lol.

Just finished my last paper of the semester! One summer class and I'll have a degree! Woot!

a 300/2 JL would be perfect. It does 300 watts bridged from 3-8 ohms.

Those are pretty beastly subs. We sell them at the shop I work at and I've heard 2 15s in a tahoe, pretty loud to say the least. Orions new HCCA line is suppose to be pretty beastly. We'll see once we get some of it in the store

Sexy install.

i would be down to help out but I don't think you realize how much work would be involved in that. Very Much so. Wiring varies in most vehicles, even from year to year of the same model. There are some very basic generalities to go by, but a lot of those are wrong too.

Badass! Mowing lawn an listening to music is one of the best things ever. That just takes it to a whole new level.

Wicked clean install.

Let's get this going!

Im a loser. http://todd.brust.mybrute.com/

There's the answer you were looking for! Thanks Bromo

Nope, The rating will differ with different loads. The output in watts with a 2.83V is going to differ with the resistance of the coil. With 1w/1m, it's always a single watt. When comparing a 8 ohm driver to a 4 ohm driver, the 4 ohm driver will get twice the power due to the lower resistance. 2.83 volts at 4 ohms will give you about 2 watts. 2.83 volts at 8 ohms will give you about 1 watt. The 2.82 volt rating will make less efficient drivers at a lower load seem to be much more efficient when they are not. As for an easy way to convert them, I cannot answer that question but I am sure some more knowledable people will have a bit more insight on that.

I'd suggest the Metra Data retention harnesses. They are right around $100 and work well in all the installs I've done. http://www.autosoundcentral.com/Metra_GMOS...AV_p/gmos01.htm That's only if you do not have Bose however. But from you sig. looks like you plan on after market anyways. As for HU. IF price isn't an issue, I like the W505 by Alpine. Or I know the Kenwood DNX8120 is a good unit as stated above.

Whoa settle down buddy. I wasn't trying to offend. I was simply stating that JL is an excellent product and that they have good customer service. I never said anything bad about Fi. And shops aren't really a rip off, more like an insurance policy if anything breaks.

I'll say it again and again, the w7 and anything JL is quality and in many cases worth the money. Like previously posted, With the same power, you aren't going to see much different. They are both good subs with good amounts of output. The only advantage to selling the w7 and getting a Fi is maybe put a couple bucks in your pocket. If you want a change in performance and don't acre about the money, I'd keep the w7. And JL audio has incredible customer service. I may not know the names of the people who work their but they take care of all their customers. I sent in a woofer that was damaged by my ignorance and they repaired it for free, no questions asked within a week and half. Theres some benefits to going through dealers.

Yeah I was looking more in depth at it and the price seemed pretty steep. 300 and even at my cost, still very expensive. I may go the route of cutting some sheet metal and matting that, then rivet it in place so if need be, I can drill out the rivets and still have access to the inner door. I think that may very well be the best route to go in the view of practicality and overall function. The barrier would be worthless if I had to lets say replace a window motor and had to cut it out anyways.

http://www.dynamat.com/products_car_audio_dynaplate.html That's the stuff that I saw on their site. Any comments?