95Honda

No. The voltage doesn't split, you are sourcing more current, not voltage. The gain knob position is meaningless, having it cranked all the way to the right to get the level you want is exactly the same as having it cranked all the way to the left to get the level you want... It means nothing... You don't need a line driver. When you add it, you may be able to turn your gain down, but you will have an increase in distortion since you added another gain stage (the line driver) into your signal chain.

It isn't underpowered.

"Car Audio" batteries are in the same league as "Car Audio" DC power cable... Don't buy into it... There were some excellent non-car audio batteries suggested in this thread. I am a big proponent of Wal-Mart batteries. There is no specialty battery manufacturer that can match Wal-Marts capacity to dollar ratio, none...

Hey, make sure you clean off that wax/polish where the connections are!

Pretty neat! I installed the same amps and line driver in my cousin's 71' Chevelle back in 1998... They are great pieces of equipment...

Yes, it is important. It isn't the only spec though...

Thanks. I can't paste in links and the "link" link just times out, think I have compatibility issues...

Hell, if you don't mind a cube box Parts Express has a CNC cut, heavily braced MDF cabinet kit for the 12" version in a kit discount price...

Any of the SSA or FI (especially the high Qts FI Q) woofers meant for a sealed box would be great. I do think the best deal around right now for sealed box woofers would be the 12" or 15" Ultimax woofers from Parts Express... Just my opinion though... They are $179 and $199, respectively. 12 in a 2ft^3 box and the 15 in a 3ft^3 box will net you sealed F3's around 35Hz, that is LOW for sealed, you would get a serious bottom end...

The markup on audio after the manufacturer can get pretty high... That is why direct sales (Fi) and companies that get a ton of stuff from Taiwan (Parts Express) can offer such low prices for a good product...

I don't have my modeling software here, but judging by the Vas of the driver, I would be will to bet that 1.25ft^3 would be on the small side. A lot of car audio manufacturers recommend sealed alignments with higher total Q's (like above 1) because the bump in upper end response gives it a "Punchy" sound... Rockford probably did the same thing. I'd go out on a limb to say if you build the right size box to be the flattest and give the lowest Fc, it will probably be upwards of 2ft^3+.... Model and see for yourself...

There is nothing special about the subs, they are overpriced even at the clearance price. Parts Express has the BASH amps for the same price, and cheaper, on regular price with a full warranty... Take that for what it's worth I guess...

What are the T/S parameters of the sub? Only way to know really...

Like I (we) said 8's are possible, they just need to be kept low in frequency (Alton is going to use his under 300Hz) or be on-axis, which is tough to do. With a dynamic cone driver, as you increase circumference you increase directivity... So the bigger they are the more the output is focused on the driver axis. You can do a 3-way with other drivers, but this also makes things more complicated. If you are going to have BTL in a big box with lots of power there probably aren't a lot of front stages that can keep up. My advice would be to stick with a 2-way, use quality drivers, see the project through and decide for yourself if you need more. The most important part will be seeing this through...

I hear you, every little bit will help...

Oh yeah, you need 7 of them then... I thought maybe you were running a regular charging voltage. Good call.

Yeah I figured that is why, you think you'll be above 15V charging?

Why are you wiring 7 of them in series? Is that what they normally do for car audio? I figured you would just do sets of 6... Not sure how good that 2.5V rating is I guess...

If you can't mount the 8's on axis, they probably will have a dip in response with pretty much any tweeter... Do you still have your sub or did that get messed up in your accident?

They are probably limiting lower impedance output by varying rail voltage... This is purely speculation on my part. They are limiting something, though... Yeah Shizzon, I may have wrote that wrong, good catch...

There are many ways to explain it, the most simple way is that audio amplifiers have set (user set for most car and pro audio) voltage gain. This means that the amplifier will put out a fixed voltage for a varying impedance load. The only problem is that the power supply has to work harder as you ask it to provided more current, and this usually ends up with a slight to large drop in voltage. This why the power never ever really doubles as you halve impedance, it may come really close, but won't most of the time... If anything, no amplifier will ever produce more than twice the power at half the impedance. That simply can't happen in the operational bandwidth (audio range) the amplifier is intended to operate in... Some amps may limit output power (some JLs) and they may make you think that the amplifier is putting out the same power at all impedances, but in reality, they are just limiting the higher impedance output...

2 amps at 2 ohms will put out more than 1 amp at 1 ohm... Always. They don't produce more voltage as the impedance drops, they always put out less. The rest is ohms law...

You will get more power running one on each amp (2 ohm load per amp) then all 4 on one amp (1 ohm load)... In your case, if those amps are 1/2 ohm stable, you would need to strap to possibly get the most out of the amplifiers... BUT, when strapping, you do so at poorer efficiency, higher distortion and less dampening... It isn't really worth it... If you had 8 ohm subwoofers, then I would consider it...

Build the box solid, no need for internal 45-degree corners with a sealed box...

There are no advantages to strapping at... Unless your system impedance is so high that you simply can't get power out of the amplifiers... But that is rarely the case, rarely...