95Honda

^^ No. Welding cable is not 2X as expensive as CCA.

1/0 aluminum is the exact same size as 1/0 copper, unless one manufacturer is lying. AWG doesn't change based on conductor material. AWG is not based on current carrying capability, it is based on cross sectional area of the conductor. This doesn't change when a different material is used. CCA is aluminum and is garbage. It is a marketing gimmick. Copper cladding on the aluminum is used for looks as there is no skin effect with DC to make the cladding worth anything.

The RMS rating has nothing, I mean absolutely NOTHING, to do with how much power your subwoofer(s) will require, period. No such thing as underpowering, either... You'll be fine with just about any of the amps you are considering.

Physical construction may be different, that is it. The cross-sectional area of copper will always be the same unless the manufacturer is lying, which is almost never the case with welding cable, especially cable that has been rated by a reputable US third party. Swap-meet garbage "car audio" power cable is where you run into erroneous AWG identification ... You saw it (mistake) on this site last year with a cable comparison. O.D. of the conductor portion was measured. This tells you absolutely NOTHING when dealing with straded wire. NOTHING. The only way to make a meaningfull comparison is to measure the AWG of the individual strands and then count every single one. If you don't do that, don't even try and compare cable.

Are you joking? This is one of the most idiotic things posted in some time. AWG is AWG unless the manufacturer is lying. Welding cable will always meet AWG spec, car audio may not...

I have used maybe 3 or 4 pairs of those tweeters. Hard to beat for the price. Will handle a fairly low crossover point as well.

I put "Car Audio" batteries along with "Car Audio" power cable. Mostly marketing hype and paying for soemhting that looks really neat... Seriously, screw up the Walmart battery and just take it back, to any Walmart, get a fully charged battery in return. Try that with anything else...

Unless weight is a concern, the biggest battery Walmart sells with crush anything 3x it's price. You can also bring it back anytime you kill it and swap it for a new one...

That and the fact that clipping doesn't hurt anything.

I certainly does not. bcae1 has not (or anyone else has published on the web) objectively tested actual driver failure like I have to back this up.

The overall thickness has nothing to do with the amount of conductor cross-sectional area (Awg).

Additionally, you can never correlate overall physical diameter to actual gauge. This is another reason people have no idea what they are talking about when they compare wire. CCA is a marketing gimmick. If you are running it, you fell for it. Plain and simple.

^^ You are making a subjective assessment, and it is useless.

Well, they obviously know what they are doing with everything, except DC current transfer.

There is never a reason, ever to use CCA other than wanting to see a big ass diameter wire for a cheaper price. It is 100% gimmick, seriously. You can't make a blanket statement like 50 amps less, or pushing the wire to it's limits. The variables in comparing the wire vary much more than that. Aluminum wire of the same gauge as copper (CCA or just plain aluminum) is inferior in every way at every current level. It Is more brittle, more prone to connection interface loss, and greatly inferior as far as cooper loss (resistance). You can tie 00 welding cable in a knot smaller than your fist. If you ever do an install with a bending radius less than that, you are asking for trouble with any type of wire. Welding cable will also handle heat, abrasions and chemical wear better than ANY car audio power wire.

CCA is a gimmick brought out by car audio companies. It is 100% not worth the money or time. People who will tell you otherwise do not understand how current flow through different metals works...

What does the RMS have to do with anything?

If it is loud as you say it is, something is wrong with the sub.

Those boxes are horrible. You could have a better design for those same drivers in that trunk...

Any time you make the box smaller, you loose overall efficiency.

"Exactly, you should have let the thread die with him being the last poster" OK, I'm done helping too...

Don't guess anything, model.

Use an enclosure calculator and model for the flatest response you can get within you size limitations. Keep in mind your vents while doing this, don't have some ridiculously small or large vents...

Jesus F'n Christ... At least NDMstang65 gave you some good advice. Have you modeled either driver yet? You can't just pick a ratio, that is not how you design a 4th order bandpass. You need to take your driver, model it for a decently flat response curve (one that doesn't look like an Indian Tee-Pee) and keep the gain somewhere less than a few db over reference. Once you do this, you will start to see that arbitrarily picking a ration is not the best way to go about things... All drivers will behave differently in the same alignment, you need to tailor the alignment to the driver.

There is no such thing as "impedance rise". When you have your alignment finished, no matter what type you choose, you will have an impednace curve. It both rises and falls. Things that affect the impedance curve ar eprimarily resonance and the driver parameters. A larger box may sometimes have an impedance curve with greater peaks than a smaller one due to the narrower band of resonance and larger response variations.