95Honda

Car has a 450Hp 347 stoker. Serious motor. But, he is runnning 2 sets of mufflers in series with a set of electric cutouts at the header collectors. So with the cutouts shut, it is pretty mild sounding. Can't talk to each other with the cutouts open, but that isn't stereo time.... A good set like this in the front should be quite adequate I would think. Especially going active with ample power. These cars are small, the kicks will be pointed almost at your face, you sit low with your legs almost straight out.... No rear seats, only a cage in the back. Seats (aftermarket) are mounted low and back. So kicks seem to be the way to go here.... Plus the car is a classic, almost frame up restored and just pristine.... In other words, no cutting door panels or pillars, lol....

God damned... Just modeled 1.7Khz 4th order to a set of the full size Vifa ring radiators.... I really think these will be the ticket... I think if I could stay below 2Khz with a 24db slope and stay on axis (somewhat) these would be a killer combo... I have a ton of Usher, Morel and P/E buyout tweeters laying around, but I don't thing they will behave like those rings.... How accurate is the is the Sundown SAX 100.4 crossover pot? I smell a good combo... I was wondering if it is a Butterwoth of L/R.... Could change my design a little.... And if I (he) need that last octave, I will consider a sub. But not until hearing the front stage first....

That might be the ticket... Didn't even think to look there...

I am going to be building an active set up in a buddies late 60's Mustang. It is a built muscle car so I want small and light weight. A set of Adire Extremis would be perfect, I need small, compact motors..... Anybody have some? Let me know, I will take them off your hands...

He is having a 4th order bandpass built. Nothing you ^^ are talking about has anything to do with that type of alignment, especially the SSF and tuning....

Without an accurate measurement of your impedance at the frequency you are operating at, you, and nobody else, will be able to tell you what that amplifer should put out at any input voltage....

The RMS rating has absolutely nothing to do with output. There isn't such a thing as underpowering. Buy whatever sub you think will be the best quality you can afford. Case in point, you could buy a BTL from FI and it is rated at much more than 100 watts. It will be louder on your 400 watts than any of the "entry level" subs you listed... This is just an example, don't take this as an end all statement.... Don't make an issue of power handling.... Because it isn't remotely a power requirement....

Or just order a set of 40-50 uf caps. Place them in series with the + terminals. The caps in the bass blockers are electrolytic junk.... Buy some polypropylene if you can...

You won't get a ton of bottom octave extension tuned that high.... For what most car audio people consider "low" tune at 30Hz or a tad lower. Please be sure and run a SSF if you have any decent amount of power.... Don't get so hung up on port area. They are a set of 10's with a decent, but not a ton, of displacement. You won't need a port you can fit your head in to keep compression from being an issue.... Perhaps you should do a little reading/research. I would suggest buying the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook by Vance Dickason. Read the first 4 chapters.

You'll actually see less power at the speakers if you add some resistance in parallel due to the amplifier power output not increasing linearly as the load drops... The only way to lower the the impedance to the amp with the same driver load is with a matching transformer. But these get expensive over 100 watts or so, have loss (5%+ at best) and increase distortion..... You can add resistance in series to increase th eimpednace to the amp, but this will also net you less power to the actual drivers... John, I might have some matching transformers laying around that have the primary/secondary impedances you need, If I do, I could send them to you to try. Let me see when I get home. -Mike

A .7 Qtc is really only optimal in an environment that doesn't have a lot of cabin/room gain. In a car, a Qtc a litle higher than .7 will normally sound pretty good due to the cabin gain of a car. Not that .7 doesn't sound good, that isn't the point here. I would just watch out if you start modeling Qtc's that approach 1. Here you will start getting some bad results.... If you make the box too small, it just won't sound so good. You won't hurt the sub though, in fact it will handle more power mechanically. You can also add a signifigant amount of fill to lower the Qtc. You will have to experiment with this....

You have no idea what the impedance is without measuring it, and you can't use that formula for accurately calculating anything without it. Save your money and buy something usefull for yourself.

Personally, I think the worst part of Chinese equipment is that you are sending your money to China. I have used some of the newer TC stuff from PartsExpress. Build quality and QC seem good. Same with Tang-band, Usher, etc.... I don't think the Chinese will be on par with the higher end US manufacting though. You need to find someone in the US military close that will be willing to order for you. Will cost you about 1/2.

If you aren't sure what you are doing, I would just buy one from Thumpper.

A 4th order bandpass is a bandpass. A 4th order vented is a "normal" ported enclosure. The "order" only refers to the roll-off in db/octave. You can have 4th or 6th order vented or bandpass. There are all types of alignments. 4th order vented refers to a standard, non-assisted, vented enclosure. The enclosure normally rolls off at 24db/octave (4th order) below F3. Once you add a SSF or other EQ, it isn't 4th order anymore... It could be 5th, 6th, etc.... Not sure if this makes sense to you, but you need to undwerstand the terminology in order to receive assistance.... The big port comment was meant for the bandpass, not the standard vented. In a bandpass, all output is through the port and it needs to be large enough to not introduce to much compression. The only way to accurately determain minimum vent area is to model and look at vent velocity. Someone on here may have the time to do it for you. Or download some freeware and model yourself.

It sounds like you were thinking of a bandpass. I was refering to a 4th order vented, not a bandpass. I would not do a bandpass with those drivers for your application. The Vas on those drivers is way too small to build a bandpass with adequate vent area...

read the question wrong. edit.

It is pretty straight forward for the enclosure calculations. You are going to have a line between 5 '- 6' long and roughly the same cross-sectional area as the combined Sd of the drivers. You'll have to stuff and measure for smooth impedance. You will have to calculate the actuall enclosure yourself because you are going to have to figure out how you will fold it up. BTW, this is a big enclosure, it will be roughly the same amount of volume minus all enclosure material displacment as a 6' long 12" diameter sonotube... You can try different taper ratios to suite your goals. I suggest reading Martin King's work before you go any further. If you haven't tackled something like this before or don't have really good fabrication skills, I would suggest a 4th order vented for your application. It would also be about 1/2 the size...

If it is the 18" Auras with the teardrop motor, it will fit. These are the 1808s, NRT 18s, Seismic System 18, North Leviathan, etc.... This motor has been around over a decade.... I don't know if you can get a recone from Aura anymore, I have noticed a ton of thier products being dumped as surplus these days. I bought my last 4 NRT 18s direct from Aura. These aren't cheap drivers, so don't be surprised by the recone/top assembly prices. I think I payed $750 for each of the 4 NRTs, and that was tax free wholesale price....

My link All you need...

If they are the NRT 18s/1808s, PartsExpress sells drop in recones. I bought some of the last NRT 18s before Aura made drastic changes, I don't know if you can get parts direct from them anymore.

Inductance is important, but not the single spec to take into account in a true subwoofer application. Additionally, where it comes into play though isn't really the fact that it acts as a low-pass filter, it is the effect that inducance has on changes in current... Put into laymens terms, the more inductance you have the more resistance you have to changes in current (AC current as it relates to us in this aspect) and the slower the driver will resond to changes. This translates into transient performance, or lack there of. In essence, look at inductance as a brake or extra dampening that tries to slow movement. So try not to think about it as a simple filter, but more of a restriction on transient performance. But, don't get hung up on this. In the realm of the bottom few octaves, you should be willing to give in to a little inductance in order to have a driver capable of sweeping enough volume to have usable output. When you get a few octaves above the sub realm, this is where the inductance really comes into audible play and the trade-offs in overall design start to favor lower inducance over other parameters such as swept volume... Hope this helps in some way...

Again, there is no skin effect in DC, so litz wire is useless. The only place you will see litz wiring in car audio is the transformers in your amp's power supply. Why? Because you are dealing with frequencies that are much higher than the audio band and there is great skin effect.... Most amps switch well over 40 Khz...

The whole "increased surface area" isn't just marketing BS, but a straight up lie..... In the DC realm Awg = Awg as far as current capacity w/the same type of conductor material.... Stranding makes no difference whatsoever... Welding cable.

I hope this isn't directed at me.....