95Honda

Here are a few of the pictures..

Yeah, your right, WTF do I know.... LOL...

LOL... Have either of you ever tested any of the P/E amps? I have. Objectively. Every one I have tested has made, or came within a watt or so of it's rated power. I tested the 1000 watt plate amp (same guts as the rackmount) 3 years ago. I did the test right. It was done into a load bank of precision non-inductive resitors and voltage was read with an accurate meater and distrotion was measured with an HP 339. Line voltage set with a variac. The amp does 1000 watts. I paid $600 shipped for the pair. You can't beat that for 2000 watts of non forced-air cooled power... Whoever got 580 watts either had a broken amp or was a moron.....

I bought a pair of the 1000w Parts Express sub amps and posted some pictures of the guts on Forceaudio if anyone wants to see what they look like before taking the plunge. Enjoy..... http://www.forceaudio.com/showthread.php?p=3404#post3404

Again, port area has absolutely nothing to do with box size. It (the minimum size) is determained by driver displacement and the amount of compression you find acceptable. Additionally, a larger port will NEVER cause there to be less control of the woofer. The only downside to a port that is (grossly) too large will be that pipe resonances can set in and cause weird issues with the tuning. As long as the port is the right (proportional) dimensions, it will act as a Hemolitz resonator (correctly).... I don't know why people keep making this crap up...

Well, apparently not in your case.... Or you had more than 1000 watts + whatever BP adds....

You probably have a ton of problems with your enslosure construction if this is an issue. For a quick fix used 1/4-20 hex head capsrews and T-nuts or hurricane nuts. I am not sure on that subwoofer's basket, if the holes won't accomadate 1/4-20, go with 10-24. Stay away from 10-32, as you will more than likely cross-thread one of them... I still would wonder about box construction though...

Ahh, it's rated thermally at 1000 watts...

Thanks for the comments. I wish you could see it in person, the pictures make it look like ass.... I just ordered a pair of the 1000 watt Dayton rack-mount subwoofer amps to power my XXX18s. That is my substage in the house... I am going look into a Krell KRC-2 (used) premap as the last bit of the system, other than a new Blu-ray player....

I am not trying to prove people wrong BTW, I am trying to keep missinformation off this board.... Thats all....

Youtube... Now thats Objective, LOL! This is pointless trying to explain to some people.... Obviously you still haven't read the clipping test on Forceaudio....

No it's not, and no you haven't. Perform an objective test as I have and I will recant my statement.

LOL, beat me to it! And before anyone gets thier panties in bunch, read this- http://www.forceaudio.com/showthread.php?t=15 Pay close attention to the NORMALIZED power results....

And you have proven this theory, how?

The BTL is a much more efficient driver. It is also geared more twards SPL.

You can blow that sub, and almost any sub for that matter with that amp. If you send too much power to the sub, you will kill it. Period. Until you have your box completed, nobody here can tell you how much power your alignment will handle. And even if you build a box that has the mechanical power handling for that amp, you can still fry the sub thermally.

It is real easy to make it objective... You need to put both drivers in the exact same alignment, not enclosure.... Sometimes we forget that there aren't two drivers on the planet that are completely optimized for the same exact enclosure. In fact, even identical drivers (same model from same company) will have variations in T/S parameters that would require slight adjustments to achieve identical responses. I have witnessed this first hand when optimizing crossover networks and having to tailor each speaker independantly to achieve identical measured response, and this is with identical drivers.... That would mean identical Qtc of sealed boxes and identical Q and alignment type of a vented box. When you do this, neither box will be the same size, have the same vent dimesions/proportions or the same tuning. It is commendable to take the time like you have, but the results would mean so, so much more if you placed the drivers in identical alignments.....

When you use the same ported box for 2 different drivers, all objectivity is out the window....

The flares help, but not as much as everyone makes them out too.... If you need a 4" (non-flared) port, and you decide to go with a flared port, you are better off still using a 4" flare port.. And the vent area is NOT determained by box volume. Ever. It is determained by the displacement of the driver. The more air you displace, the more port surface area you need. If you run that 18 with roughly half the power, only 2 ports would be fine. If you ran it with roughly a quarter of the power, 1 would be fine. The only way to answer your question is to model the driver in that box with your predicted power and look at the vent velocity, if it is low enough, you'll be fine... And the quick answer, 4 x 4" ports are fine for almost any 18" driver under most circumstances....

Would you mind elaborating on that more? OK, and dammit sticky this or something because this is getting ridiculous these days... LOL... The voltage gain of an amplifier is the ratio of voltage applied to the input vs. the voltage produced at the output. This is expressed in db. An average voltage gain for a high power sub amplifier is somewhere in the vicinity of 30 db, or 5x the voltage doubling. This would mean that if the amplifier was presented with 2V on the input, it would present 64V on the output. You need to remember that audio amplifiers are voltage sources, they attempt to maintain a fixed voltage level into different impedances. Try not to forget this, it is important. This is why amplifiers have different power ratings at different impedances, because the rails will always try and swing the same voltage with the same input, and then the output stage will source the differing amounts of current required to maintain the constant voltage into the varying impedances. Ok, so we understand that amplifers are a voltage source. So now, lets look at an amplifier without a gain knob, like many older amps and most home audio amps. They have a fixed voltage gain (this is published when usable specs are actually given by manufacturers) and if we know what the voltage gain is, we know exactly what input drive will produce full ouput power into any impedance. We know this because if the amplifier is rated at say 100 watts at 8 ohms it has 29VRMS output capabilty before the rails are exhausted and clipping sets in (square root of W*Z) And we know if the amplifier is rated with 30db of voltage gain that roughly 900mv on the input will produce 29V on the output and is the maximum power (900mv * 30db = Apr. 29V) Now lets look at the amplifer with a gain knob. I has adjustable voltage gain. They usually give you around 10-15db of adjustment in overall volatge gain of the amplifier. Why isn't it expressed as db on the knob? Because most people wouldn't understand how db relates to voltage (a 6b increase doubles the voltage). So instead, they do the math for you and write a voltage level that cooresponds to the gain amount (like 200mv to 8V) and put that on the amp so you can set the voltage gain of the amp. Why do they do this? #1 so you can match multiple outputs of multiple channels/amps. #2 to increase the S/N ratio. #3 as a marketing gimmick..... #1 is easy and needs no explanation. #2 is also easy, but I will explain. The more voltage gain an amp has, the more it amplifies everything. This includes alternator whine, white noise (hiss) and everything else. The less volatge gain the amp has, the less it amplifies everything, including all of these noises. So, the lower you set the voltage gain while still being able to get the power you need out of the amp (you have sufficient voltage drive from your source) the less overall noise the system will have. This is also where matching the H/U output to amplifer gain comes into effect. #3 Would most people on here buy an amp with a gain knob or without one, if everything else was exactly the same? Think about it.... The most expensive amplifiers in the world do NOT have gain knobs. Look at any Krell, Mark Levinson, Pass Labs, etc and you will see this..... AND DAMMIT, speakers don't care about clipping.... If you are listening to any Jimi, Metalica or G-n-R, you are listening to clipping, and alot of it.... And I bet your speakers are doing just fine.... Speakers don't like too much power, that is what kills them. It kills them thermally if the enclosure alignment permits, and kills them mechanically if the enclosure alignment permits... That's it... That's all...

The speaker doen't cae if it is a clipped signal or unclipped, power is power and heats up the voicecoil the same. 100 watts of any signal is 100 watts. I have tested this. Thoroughly. The gain knob is simply there for matching H/U voltage drive and decreasing the system noise floor. The gain setting of an amplifier simply sets the voltage gain, nothing else. If you have a 1200 watt amp, it can put out 1200 watts, reguardless of gain setting. If it puts out say, 1200 watts at a certain setting, and you increase ANYTHING ANYWHERE in the signal chain, you will drive it into clipping. It is much simpler in every aspect than everyone makes it out to be.

I think it set me back almost $2K. The chassis was almost $500 with all the aluminium (that was over $100), stroke-sanding and anodizing... But to buy something like this new would be at least $5K+, so it works out in the end......

I built this amp from scratch about 5 years ago. I also designed everything but the output stage... I weighs almost 100 lbs. It is a pretty sweet amp, it still runs like a champ day in and day out.... Class AB, 100wpc into 8 ohms, 200wpc into 4 ohms and 400wpc into 2 ohms..... So, I went ahead and cleaned up some of the crap I did about about a year ago converting my amp for 230V and adding grounding options... I added a 5 position barrier strip with selectable jumpers on the input side for setting up the primaries of the power transformers for either 115V or 230V.... I also extended the primary wires about 10" to reach the barrier strip. Next I added small toggles to select either chassis ground or float for each channel on the RCA jacks.... I haven't needed to use this feature, but it is always nice to have. I also added a serious ground lug to the back and ran it to the star ground... I doubt I'll ever need that also, but hell, who cares.... All politically correct audiophile wiring, of course.... I even used silver solder (total waste for power wiring but, hell, this is my statement amp so who gives a shit...)

This type of crap is what helps people ruin their equipment. If you don't have something informative to offer, do not post anything.

Nothing changes in the motor. There is NO conclusive data on break-in as far as damage... In other words, people don't really know what they are talking about... Let it rip or take it easy, it won't make a difference.