95Honda

The meter tells how loud it is. Period. People complain when they think they are louder than they (actually) are, that's all...... People also forget that the meter is often in a different place than your ear....

If you aren't concerned with weight or size (it is going in the trunk, right?) You can get the biggest battery Walmart sells that is well over 1000CCA, and return it for free every time it gets a little weak for about 3 years........ That is better price and performance than you can get with any "Car audio" battery under a few hundred bucks, LOL..... Might be about $100 or less...

The point of blowing on the sensor and not getting a high reading is to show the TL isn't sensitive to air currents in the environment, unlike traditional transducers. Air currents, like blowing on a mic, aren't loud. But, they can move the electro-dynamic elements enough to give the false reading of being loud. Screams aren't loud either (at all), relatively speaking in the realm of 140db+ car audio systems.... A TL doesn't measure anything but SPL. If you aren't loud on a TL, then you aren't loud. SPL = Sound Pressure Level.

We need to change and/or delete that tutorial, there is a lot of misinformation in there...

Please, just don't start believing the "It will handle XXXX clean watts" garbage, or if the gains are set right nonsense. You blow that driver with any amp that puts out more than the RMS of the driver. Period. You are more likely to blow that sub, or any sub for that matter, with a 1500 watt amplifier from say Sundow or RF than you would with a "1000 watt" Hifonics amp.......

The best place to ground everything is in the same place, with as heavy of cable as possible. This is always possible. For about the last ten years I have followed this principle and I have installed close to a 100 car audio systems, I have never once, under any circumstances had a noise problem that wasn't from a defective piece of equipment. I have always used at least 8 awg even for the deck ground. evrything is grounded to the same point. Period. My proof to this technique is in my outcome, every time..... Any time you ground at different locations, and even worse with too small of ground cable, you run the risk of creating different ground potentials between equipment and this almost always will result in alternator AC leakage working it's way into the signal chain through the low level signal cable ground(s), AKA engine noise..... There is no limit to your ground length. The length and gauge of wire will determain the voltage drop you will see on your ground cable, less is better. To put this into perspective, a 10' ground of 1/0 is better than a 18" ground of 4 awg. The longer, but thicker, 1/0 cable will have less resistance and less voltage drop.

Some companies will use Fo instead of Fs when listing their T/S parameters. They are (meant to be) the same thing. Some companies call Fo the "lowest resonant frequency".... LOL, but it is the same damn thing... Europeans use Fo more than Americans. The Aura NRT-18s I bought a few years ago listed the Fs as Fo on the spec sheet....

Well, my last "LOUD" low power system consisted of 8 RE 8s and 150 watts. I scored 143db on T/L. You see some pretty pathetic numbers thrown up all the time, Like 1000+ watts and big subs barely doing 140....

I installed 3 SSX 12s in fullsize Bronco 2 years ago ran off a MMATs DHC2200.1. They were loud, that is about all I can say....

I had AVG installed on my old computer, but it still got infected. I also had a program (can't remember the name) that found and deleted trojan horses. Well, you know how that worked out... To make a long story short, the only thing I use the computer for is speaker design programs, hotmail, ordering from Partsexpress and typing work papers. My wife uses it for Myspace. So I think I'll be good with the new computer for a while. We don't do any chat, online gaming, downloading of media, etc.... I burned the CDs on the old computer, stuck them in the new one and virus scanned each one. Like you guys said, there was nothing found on the discs, but I'm glad I checked anyway. The Norton is free for us in the military, as long as we are in, so that is why I use it. I wouldn't probably notice if it slowed things down anyway, this website is probably the toughest thing I have it do... LOL...

Yo. Haven't seen you on SIN... LOL... What's up man??? SoCal is sweet, if you don't talk to anyone... Heh heh heh...

Yep.

Thanks!

Thanks guys. I appreciate the help. The Norton is set up for constant updates.

OK, I really don't know a whole lot about computers, so sorry if this sounds stupid. A few months ago our old HP tower became so infected with viruses and trojan horses that I couldn't keep up with getting rid of them. I had some software guys from work install a ton of virus protection, but it just kept getting all messed up every few days (it was almost 10 years old) so I said hell with it and bought a brand new computer. Anyway, new computer works great, I use Norton because we get it free being in the military. Basically, here is my question. I had about a 1000 jpegs on the old computer, right now I have it sitting in the corner, stand alone, burning the jpegs onto CDs. Do I need to be carefull before I put those CDs in the new computer and download them? Is there a safe way to scan the CDs with the new computer? Any help would be great. I won't stick the CDs into the new computer until I am sure I know what I'm doing.

If you build the box right, MDF is just fine. If you have walls flexing 1/4", no wood on earth of the same thickness would have helped you. I'm not going to turn this into a wood debate, because this was never his problem from the start. If anything, it should be a construction debate. I am simply amazed at some of the builds that get posted on here, and even more amazed at the praise they receive.

Could be older Kimber TC series. I can't tell from the picture. Does it look like this- http://www.kimber.com/Products/LoudSpeaker...es/4PR/4PR.aspx I have been using Kimber for 20 years. If that is what it is, don't waste it on your car stereo, sell it on Audiogon or ebay and buy something else with the money.

Yeah, then I also don't like the way the driver measured either.

Are you using an pre-programmed cabin gain estimation, or did someone make measurements with a reference source? The only reason I ask is because it looks like the vehicle has falling response in the 50Hz region (most obvious with the sealed box curve) which is odd. But you never know, there can be all kinds of nulls in there. For the bandpass to have a flat response in car and the ported and sealed to have falling 50Hz+ response would tell me the bandpass has a rising response from the lower F3 on up.... This may be desireable in your truck and that is why you like the sound. I have done alot of bandpass boxes. Some for home audio, some for car. I have had mixed experiences, but liked the way the home ones turned out more of the time.... Maybe because the home environment was less augmenting....

The power needed will almost entirely be based on your enclosure alignment. In other words, it is up to your box on how much power you will need to get full output from your subs.... There is no such thing as underpowering.

Urrr, what?

Well, more power and more efficient subs should be louder. Note I said should. One thing though, The SXs have alot of stroke and a lower Fs. They *might* be a little louder in the bottom octave. But, by the sounds of things, that might not be super important to you. You could also save money on amps/electrical and just make the box bigger with the MT/BTLs..... Is it worth the change? What is it going to cost for 4 BTL/MTs and a additional pair of MD3s, Like $2-3K+..... You tell us......

The peak will almost always be in the same general range in vehicle when you don't change box size or woofers. Tuning at 30Hz just lowers the overall system efficiency and extend the low end cutoff. The high tuning just exaggerates the peak(s) in the vehicle. You van easily see this when you model a 4th order ported box and change tuning, there still always is a funny shape to the curve that follows the same general area. The overall peak changes, but there is still alot of energy in the same region, this is just amplified in a car environment. A 4th order bandpass is potentially more efficient than a 4th order ported box, if it has less bandwidth. In other words, if you are more efficient with the 4th order bandpass, you have a narrower pass-band than the standard 4th order ported alignment, this is physics, no way getting around it. This is not a good attribute for sound quality. Until you start dealing with horns, don't even bother with talking about the differences of matching driver to air impedance in the car environment. The questions you asking are above the help you are trying to get. You seem like you already have your mind made up. Bottom line is, depending on alignment, all 3 enclosures can have ruler flat response (anechoic). The major different between the 3 will be: efficiency, bandwidth, group delay and size. But I think you already understand all this.

Ahh, welding stores, maybe?

Was that a DVC sub? If so, did you measure with both coils connected? Q looks high, even for a car audio sub...