slim2fattycake

its all about the box.

lol. 15k for amps? god damn, that's a healthy budget.

how much are you wanting to spend? what are you going to have as far as electrical to back up your amps?

Audiopipe is priced very cheap. I ran Audiopipe 3k and my gf has the 1500. The AP line is very worth the money. Check this out. Its cheap as balls, has SUBSONIC FILTER and is VERY small. http://www.caraudiodeals.com/audiopipe-apsm1150-p-3996.html I would say my lanzar amp but it's only 4 ohm bridged stable.

you wanna wire in parallel.

OP doesn't know about this yet. They haven't checked back since. OP told me on SMD that this forum was no help.

He already has a 12" Q.

I wouldn't buy anything from RE that was blinged up and an X was added to the end. Original RE > new RE. Its funny that they change the ratings on some of the original subs to make the newer ones look better. Shag, I got a 12" RE RE older style here but its dual 4 ohms. If you want it, you can have it for $50.

That is because people are audio illiterate. Im dead set on getting two fi subs for my next ""SQL"" setup. If the N1 is comparable to the Q in terms of SQ, then i may just have to get a couple of 18" N1s Dont worry ill have ID XS65 on 250 watts per side with an 7-8" dedicated midbass driver. Point is im hoping he N1 will be SQ oriented like the Q.

Thats cool.

Rough quote on price maybe?

O okay. So ETA?

Just wondering if you guys can make a kit for a newer split coil RE XXX? I know your site says you can do 2005 and older XXX but this one's a little different. Can the basket be used or is a standard basket needed? Let me know a quote. I know Scott isn't going to be in the office til Friday so I'm making this thread just in case he doesn't get the email. Thanks.

You should sell it or try to get money back if you can. Build it yourself or get someone to build it or at least design it for ya. And you need a Termlab or an SPL-Lab meter to get a true reading on what dB numbers you are doing. Not sure if you wanna dish out money just to meter once or twice. Probably be better to get metered by someone local that has an accurate meter. Unless you buy a meter to test and tune your own set up for daily or competition. You can even charge for others to use the meter. Here is a box I did for someone local for the same sub you have. The owner was way happier with this ported box tuned low than with his box he bought off the shelf. I can give you the plans for it, its pretty easy.

Got it, so 28mm stock parameter is a typo. And yeah, for the little price difference, you get 10mm more of linear travel so its a smart move to go ahead and get it. But if you wanted to put up good numbers on the meter, would this option be good to have or not?

Yeah, he does. His refurbished amps have warranties too you know.

Yeah I know. I was wondering if it was a typo.

Did you check the FI section? JBLcamry did some plans a while back for all FI subs.

Don't know if this was asked, but by from the website the stock xmax is 28mm so what's going to change with the hixm coils?

I know the N1 would be more SQ but what would you say to someone trying to decide between the N1 and a BL? Or even SQ with SQ, the N1 and the Q?

Yeah, I think accord idles at 1800 rpm hot. I haven't had a need for my xp recently. I gotta get a new 3k amp in and build a new setup. TheycallmeJT, 1800 rpm alt is about 600 rpm engine.

HOLY SHIT! 125amps at 1600 rpm alt! What vehicle idles that low? That thing does about 200 amps at competitior's idle lol. You wouldn't happen to have an output curve for my 270 xp would ya?

use smaller gauge if you want or have to. you don't have that much power to need 10 gauge really.

I'ma email his ass. 160dB shit he don't need 20k watts if he can do that on 3k watts. lol. He must be on that radioshack meter turned upside down. Edit: Message to him. "Hey bro, when did the gen1 BTLs have chrome plates? And when did FI use black baskets? Also, nice job on the glue around the dust cap. Do you have carpal tunnel, are you Michael J. Fox, or are you a 3rd grader? And did you do 160dB legal on the dash or in the port? And did you use the Termlab, SPL-Lab, or radioshack meter? Must have been a radioshack meter turned upside down, right? So a 91dB on the dash? Let me know, I’ll give you $100 for the motor or $130 for the whole sub. I got plenty of BTLs, and this isn’t one."

Neither? Check this amp out. cheaper price and more power for headroom.