ParrishElectronics

Hmm....I doubt it.

Much more efficiently and without the artifacts of a 5.25. Would free up the tweeter to do it's job better as well. Add to that the benefit for tuning of having a single driver play most of the voicing all with absolutely no negatives.Why is that? I would ASSuME it has to do with the correlation between the diameter of the diaphragm and the frequencies being produced. A smaller "middle" driver would more easily even the passband. Yes and much more efficiently and without the artifacts of a 5.25. Would free up the tweeter to do it's job better as well. Add to that the benefit for tuning of having a single driver play most of the voicing all with absolutely no negatives.Just sit in Randall's truck... You will be surprised at how well the 5.25 works. Agreed. You have to listen to it to really appreciate it.

For sure. Especially if it quadruples its power into 1 ohm!

I would most certainly make a baffle / mounting plate out of wood and mount the wood directly to the door. Then, of course, mount the speaker to the wood. I usually use MDF because I always have it lying around. I do paint it or polyeurethane it because there is always a chance it will see some water. Sometimes you can use the factory plate for a template or you may have to make your own. I would also definitely use sound deadening and closed cell foam on the door itself. You will want to take every precaution possible to keep those door rattles down. It will pay off in the long run.

its funny to me how things work. Back in the day, when amps were made differently, the going rate was about $1 a watt. So, in general, a 600 watt amp would run you right around $600. Today, a gazillion watt amp will set you back $200. Its very sad to me the way things have headed. Guess I'm just getting old.

Interesting. I am by no means an expert, but I have always been taught anytime you introduce reactive components into an audio circuit, there is going to be some form of phase shift. This shift can be altered, minimized, or compensated for by certain design characteristics in the crossover. However, I've read numerous times that this subject is always up for debate and depending on who you talk to you will get different answers. I guess it's kind of like the old argument of direct current flow. Depending on who you talk to, there are those that say current flows from negative to positive, and then those that say it flows from positive to negative. I've read some arguments and reasonings for both. To me, its just one of those subjects that will always have people on both sides of the coin. I'm not sure I understand the comments about marketing and lying. Seems like strong comments to make on a subject that is by everything I've been taught, read, heard, etc is certainly debateable. Oh well, just my take on the issue.

Thank you. Yes, I love this car too. 10 years ago I would have probably laughed at it. But today is a different story. It's very comfortable, drives nice, and has a little power when you need it.

Beautiful day here today. Have been working on the passenger side tweeter mount some. I've had to test fit and fine tune multiple times to make sure I get the angle right.

Good lord those things are crazy. I wonder how far some of these manufacturers are going to take things?

Nice looking equipment, first time I've heard of it though. Have you used it before? Certainly interested to hear your thoughts on it.

I know everyone likes to see subs, so here are the four 8" Blues drivers that I will be using in this build. I just have to get the materials to put the Iso-kits together.

Sorry for the lack of updates recently. Weather here has not been too friendly over the last few days and when I work, it has to be outside, no garage. Hoping to get back on it in the next few days.

Nice looking enclosures. The internal bracing is not something you get everywhere with pre-built enclosures. Well done.

I listen to rap and r&bI think a ported enclosure is the way to go. I use Blues speakers and Linear Power amps exclusively. They are the best in the business in my opinion. However, they fall outside of your budget. That being said, I did a little looking around. Seems like a couple of 10 in. subs from SSA or Sundown would be a consideration. I looked at the mounting depth and enclosure recommendations and you should be good. 12's from either company may not fit with your size requirements. As far as an amp goes, for your budget, I would perhaps take a look at something from Zed Audio. Steve Mantz has been designing and manufacturing amps for a long time. His new stuff gets great reviews even though I have no personal experience with it. I used some of his old stuff back in the day and they were very good quality. Hope I've been able to help a little. I will certainly try to continue to help if you need it. Best of Luck.

What kind of music do you mainly listen to? If loudest is your goal, I would take a look at a ported enclosure, find a sub that will perform well in a ported enclosure, and tune it to the proper frequency. You should be able to get a pretty good amp for that amount of money. Just don't cut corners when it comes to the enclosure, wiring, etc. You may want to take a look at some of the SSA subs. They have several different types and are made here in the US.

I'm not exactly sure I understand your question. However, I will try to offer what assistance I can. Just about any head unit will clip if you turn it all the way to the max. Just don't do it. You should set your gain on your amps properly. You will need a test disc with pink noise on it, and a multi-meter. There are many articles out there on how to do it. I'm not going to get into it in this post, just do a search and you will find it. As far as crossovers go, does your head unit have it built in? It sounds like it from your description, but I just want to be certain. If so, use your owners manual and follow the directions on how to get to it and how to set it. As far as WHAT it should be set to, you should check the specs on your speakers. Check out their frequency response. I'm not saying that's where you should set it, but it's a good starting point. If you have any more specific questions, please just ask and I will do everything I can to assist.

Nice work so far, great pictures.

I just don't understand the need of people to make fun of or talk negatively about others. This forum is for members to share their audio builds, ask for advice, bounce ideas off of others who have the same interests. There's no reason for personal attacks. I just don't get it.

There are many good subs on the market. I believe its more to do with personal preference than anything else. However, what would you like to hear from this sub? Plays low? Loud? Ported? Sealed? And, even more importantly, how much do you want to spend on an amp when it comes time to purchase one? I would certainly try to make sure that whatever sub I chose, I was able to properly and cleanly power it. From the looks of your measurements, your choices may be limited by mounting depth. Make sure to take a look at this spec when shopping for a sub. Sorry, I know I haven't suggested any particular brand. I just think that enclosure size, type, power, etc. is much more important than the actual sub. Hope this helps a little. Best of Luck.

Agreed. Can't stress enough the importance of upgrading the factory wiring. This is true anytime installing an aftermarket system, IMO, but especially when upgrading to a high output alternator. 300A is a LOT of current and the wire needs to be capable of delivering it. Best of Luck.

I will absolutely 2nd this post. Spot on. The use of foam to stop rattles and unwanted noise in a vehicle is very underrated by most. Please don't over look it.

I'm definitely looking forward to hearing this again with the 6.5 in the door playing. Those 5.25s are unreal, but I'm sure the little extra in the door makes a nice difference. I wish you much luck working with the insurance to get the hail damaged resolved. I know it's probably a pain.

Good luck with the build. Definitely looks like a lot of work and it makes my ears hurt just thinking about it.

I still don't understand the problem with this. As long as it's not being switched with any real power on it there shouldn't be an issue. I used to have a test rig for installing speakers/components/etc. that had six double pole/double throw and four double pole/single throw non-shorting switches mounted in a box with long pigtails in it that allowed me to connect it between the amp/speakers or crossover/speakers to do instant phase reversing on individual drivers. Never had any issues doing that, though I did use high quality switches and would turn it down before making the switch anyway. Made an instant and easy way to test phase relationships in a car. As I state, it can be done. I usually just don't recommend it to anyone because of the chance of making a mistake. Constant 12v, remote power, etc. usually (always should) have a fuse inline. If something shorts to ground you have a fuse to bail you out. This is not the case on speaker wires. If the amp were under power and somehow the switch was accidently hooked up wrong, or the exposed prongs were not properly protected and it shorted, depending on internal fusing of the amp, you could cost yourself a lot of money. If you are careful, it certainly can be done. I just don't recommend it because of the possiblity of damaging something.

As stated, check all connections including power and especially grounds. I always sand off paint and primer and use bolt, star washers, lock washer, and nut through the FRAME, when at all possible. I also then apply some type of protectant over the connection to prevent corrosion and/or rust. If all connections are very good and you still have the issue, I would then look at the possibility of a 2nd battery. If you have a multi-meter, check the voltage at the terminal on the amp with the music playing and see what kind of a voltage drop you are looking at. I would do this both BEFORE and AFTER I did anything to the connections to see if I had made a difference. Good Luck.