ncc74656

so i have a box where the port is 30.25 wide and 3.5" tall from the face of the box back but when it bends the gap from the port to the back wall changes to 4.25". this was a build error where i put the second sheet of wood on the face of the main port as opposed to the end grain of the port. how will this effect my boxes tuning and port dynamics?

ok so 33-66hz should be easily obtainable. that sounds to me like it would cover the range of frequencies that i want, no? so a box tuned to what ever frequency will make that point the resonance and thus have a large peak there. if i tune a box to 33hz that will cause anything under 31hz ish to unload the sub and make little to no real noise and i could expect the top of the spl peak to be at 33 but how fast will it roll off after that? is it more in how the sub is built or in how a box is built that will allow me to fully utilize a single octave with a decently flat response curve?

ok so i have a box that is 6.77 cubic and 35.4hz tune HOWEVER, the port is 3.5" tall but the small jog down of 3.5" is 4.25" from the back wall. i put the jog down on the face instead of the end of the top port so how does this effect the box? i can fairly easily mod this box into a 32hz tune and 6.25 cubic as an experiment. think i should or should cut the port out of this box and build an external port and use this box for frequency testing before building a new one? edit: if i cut this port out the box will be 8.53 cubic, is that to large?

hmmm. ok. what i feel i get in my present box is a very one sided sound. that is to say that i hear the bump of the bass and some rolling bass but i do not hear the subtle phases (maybe not the right word to use) as the bass sweeps across a spectrum in a song. as the bass gets up to the 45-50hz range (getting these numbers from what the previous guy said about those songs) the bass hollows out and i loose many magnitudes of volume. perhaps my box is an issue right now? i do not have my recone to test things out but im going to go outside right now and take measurements of my box and post them up here so you can tell me if its built how i think it is. is there anyone on here who would be willing to design a box to the specs they think i need so i can have an outside source to check my numbers against? you say it isnt even a full octive, what is the definition of an octave in this context?

So with that in mind maybe it makes things easier. How do I make this sub respond from 30 to 50 Hertz as opposed to 125? a39 hertz tune would be very much in the middle, would there be a way to make this sub peak twice? Have one peak around 33 and another peek around 45 hurts? With a loll in between but not a drop off.

well i had a pair of kicker back when i had components. when i upgraded to the BL i was only able to use at 60% volume on the sub or it would totally drowned out the audio from the alpine X component system i had. my amp for the components was way over kill so i figured id turn the bass down on the mids and see how much volume i could get to over come the bass from the sub. they melted and smoked. after that i bought the 10" PWX with the tought of more power and larger cone means more audio and this worked perfectly at first. the vocals and music notes were clear and crisp, they were able to keep up with the BL and all was good. (also at this time i added a 3way active cross over). so then i wanted more bass, more vibration, more volume so i traded my 1500.1 for a 2500.1 on the BL and that added quite a bit of bass and i ran with that for about 5 months. (the BL was fully loaded so putting an extra 1KW into it didnt seem to be a problem). so now i had this huge amp and i needed a new alternator and more batteries, i started buying this and i heard a friends sub (eclipse 18) that destroyed my sub in the lows. i knew the box was to blame but i thought why not see if i can sell the BL and buy a SP4 so i can get louder? after months on craigs list a guy came to me who wanted to buy my sub/box for 420.00. well shit thats a good return on investment so i felt i had to take it, no telling when such a deal would come again. so i ordered the SP4 and started building a 1.5" MDF box tuned to 34/35/36/37hz (i changed the port length as i built it). settling on 36hz i felt was a good middle ground from the old kickers i had that i felt had zero high end bass and hte bl i had wich i felt had very little low end bass. my entire car audio experience has been getting one and loosing the other. when the SP4 was hooked up the low down bass was so extreme that the mids were no longer able to keep pace so i swaped out amps and changed up settings. the PWX worked very well but with the increased power to the tweets they were starting to distort and i was loosing frequencies in teh mud so to speak. i intend to buy 2 more tweets to stick in my doors along with maybe 2 more 8" speakers to try and equal out the mid range volume to the sub. now i have a home system (7.2 surround) where i have 2 10" 4 way 400W floor standing speakers in the front, 2 dual 8" 3 way speakers on the side 300W and 2 dual 6.5" 3 way speakers in the rear 200W and a dual 6.5" 2 way center speaker at 150W. a 15" 850W sub in the front and a quad 12" 1200W sub cabinet in the rear. ALL of these speakers are ported and i want my truck to sound like this system does in terms of quality. the receiver is a yamaha. so the kickers were good low end but no high end, the bl was amazing high end with empty low end, the SP4 is ungodly low end with very faint high end. edit: i feel that i need to invest in a eq and a second 2 way xover and maybe a couple more amps if i am to setup a 4 way system. what i do not know is how to get a frequency response up to 85hz and retain a volume the same loudness as a SP4 tuned to 32hz across the entire sweep. or at least semi close, plus or minus a few db is fine but right now i feel like i go from 100db to 20db in the blink of an eye when a songs bass sweeps through and i dont want that.

my current 10" PWx's will vibrate the truck, door, mirrors enough to not be able to see out of them. ive had people ask what subs im running with just these 2 mid range but what i dont understand is my BL in my 40hz box played the frequencies that i wanted and it sounded great. i went to this SP4 because i had little to no low end on the BL and now i have no high end and the low end is disproportionately loud to the rest of the music. the hair trick was just an after thought perk. i had build my current SP4 box with that i mind so i had hte port facing forward and the sub facing forward directly between the front seats. did not move enough air tho

i had that sealed box and components last year. i wanted louder so PA's are not there for mid bass... what is a mid bass speaker then?

ok, what is a good set of PA speakers that will shake the entire truck at 60-125hz? i will look at rebuilding my SP4 box to a 32hz down from a 36 and try to maximize its potential on the low end. can i make a hair trick sub/box with a single SP4 or would i need more than that? just curious.

my BL sounded great (in my experience anyway) at these higher frequencies. that sub was also a flat wind but is its coil "lighter"? could i use another sub for mid range bass then? use these crescendos for now on mid range and then buy say a 1500W sub for the mid range bass? also, did you guys listen to those songs, am i correct in they sit in the 60-125hz range or are you guys just saying that what ever frequency those songs are at you know it wont sound good on a SP4? if the SP4 is not the best sub for this i have 2 options, keep it and guy more what ever to fill the gap or sell it and buy 2 of another sub to try and make up for loss in volume, right? edit: i do like the crazy low bass this SP4 gives me but i dont want that at the expense of the higher range you hear in those songs. i want both...

what was the price difference between a local shop building baskets as opposed to over seas? id be curious to know how much of a gap there is in our manufacturing processes vs another country. while i know it is the case in many situations i have a hard time fathoming how building a part 3000 miles away is cheaper than building one down the street.

Kito & Reija Lee have many songs that have this higher bass octive. i do not want my sysetm to be devoid of all low bass i just dont want this low bass to be so much louder than the higher bass. such as in Tantrum Desire - Reach (Dubstep Mix). there are a few octaves of bass and the lower deep bass is easily twice as loud as the higher bass in this song on my sub and i do not want this to be the case. SKRILLEX & THE DOORS - BREAKN' A SWEAT - has higher bass through out its beat but not quite as high of bass as some other songs. so let me know what you think, if im correct in my frequencies or not and how to get a flatter response at the same volume up into the mid bass. to me mid bass should start around 250hz no?

here is a second song copied at the time index that starts the crescendo to the song, a long rolling bass line:

i went though a sweep to find the frequencies that i prefer. i will list a few songs that i believe fit into this range. ill compile a list and post it up here in a bit. lets start with this, kaskade - eyes; has a 3 part segmented bass rise in the beat of the song. when it hits its 3rd and final octave that is the frequency i like the most in songs.

i played around with frequencies a bit today. my preferred range for bass is 60-115hz, thats what i want to be the loudest.

does anyone know what the Xmax is for these speakers? i dont think i can determine that from the graph provided can i?

a few weeks ago i was told my recone for my 18 will be going out around the 17th, i think this was before they found out about the shipping issues. i wounder, why not make there cones from carbon and just build them in house? i would think this would be far faster, easier, and cheaper than outsourcing such work. the baskets require quite a bit of CNC expense so i can see why those would be done at a facility with the equipment already running. I wounder what the cost difference is from choosing a local CNC shop vs china? I have ordered many parts over the years and quite often i have run into a delay because some component is waiting to pass customs or make the trek from china. the JiT business model is a proven one but it would drive me crazy not having my products parts manufactured with in arms reach and i would always want to have a spare or two on hand. i hate that so much needs to be outsourced but going the other direction, sense we are living in a global economy why in the h*ll are we still di*king around with customs delays? it seems we should embrace this world wide model and try and expedite things vs slow them down.

the sub would be in a vented box for my application but yes, only issue i could see from a prefab sealed would be the box flexing appart. i recall buying a box at bestbuy and it was 3/8 particle board.

i run a KX3 xover but i do not have an EQ. i am simply looking for a full range of frequencies at a volume that can match the 18 sp4.

trouble is they don't sell a snorkel for this year of truck and the newer trucks have different fender sizes and body lines. it would be a rather awkward fit. in my mind i would think it would be easier and smoother to build a custom out of carbon/glass. do you think im incorrect about that assertion?

if i recall its also got a bit shorter mount depth that was nice. .5" i think. i just think that an SSD may be over kill but perhaps not, if the X is so damn close to the SSD then why have it as a product at all? i would think it would be a net loss to offer a product that is basically the same as the next one up for about the same price.

lol, yes i could use a pair. ok so what is a good pair of pro audio that will get loud enough to balance out with a SP4 in a truck cab? i see the T/S specs now so i will place these into winisd and play around a bit. based on these specs what do you think of this woofer?

thing is with my client she does not want nor need a 1500W sub, a 750 is on the outside edge of her goals but im sure her son will love it.

transmission has been sealed front to rear, the inspection plate has a modified breather tube for atmospheric venting. the axles vent tubes run into a filter box at the top of the cab, the crank case breather tube has a check valve installed and a trap in an elongated run to the mid truck. all electrical connections are using water tight harnesses and all splices are heat shrinked. door seals and firewall plugs have been replaced with more rigid rubber seals. a clear hose has been installed on 2 oil check ports on the engine, this is to allow for visual inspection of the oil color. the axles have had flush hex nuts tapped into the bottom of the pumpkins to allow water to drain out after an off road excursion.

trans, Tcase, axles, and electrical is already done. its all been rebuilt with water in mind. intake is the last thing i need to work on