ncc74656

maybe i need to buy both and just test them as i cant seem to find any good info around the net. perhaps the X is just to new

exhaust dosnt matter, there is more than enough back pressure there to hold the water out. intake is all i am worried about. they do not make any prefab snorkel for the dodge ram 2nd gen so i must make my own. i will need to ensure the tube has at least a 5" diameter volume to allow for proper air flow, past that i need to work out how i am going to get it through the fender. perhaps cutting a hole and using a 5" cardboard tube through the fender and glassing over that as i make the bottom of the snorkel. i could then mold up some of that filler tube and just pull it out when its done. does fiber glass burn? could i use a very flammable material as my mold and then just set it on fire to get it out like you do in pottery? if i built the mounting hardware into the bottom layer of fiber i would not need to cut it open i think. edit: where would the filter be in this? would the snorkel go into a box where the factory box is and a cylinder filter such as one from volant and then that connects to the turbo? if so then the box could be used to drain any water that gets in and to accumulate any dust or dirt in there. that sound right?

I need to make a snorkel for my truck so i need to build a fiberglass tube that goes through my fender and up the A pillar. how should i go about building a fiberglass tube in this manor? also what is the customary way to attach such a thing to the outside of the vehicle? thanks.

my amps birth was 3272 at 95hz and my other amp was 1876 at 95hz. 2ohm load for both. i think why you see so many more people frying subs on the more expensive amps is that with all that power is just so much easier to do. you run a 200W amp with a stupid clipped signal to a good sub and ill bet you could go months before anything happened. you run 5000W with a horrid clipped signal and you might not make it all the way down the road before the flames are coming out of the cone, engulfing the surround and setting fire to the lining in your cab. then your running around trying to pull this huge ass box out of the truck but it wont fit out the door so you reach for the fire extinguisher only to realize you just covered it up by dragging the box towards the door. So then you have to run to the bed and pull the huge extinguisher out of the tool box and what do you end up with? a crap load of white powder all over your truck, seats, and speakers... speaking from my own experience anyway, individual results may vary.

i removed the terminals when i did the sanding. ill put them back in when i reinstall the cone

i dont think i went into the metal much, i just ran over it with my die grinder until it was bare

when i first got into music it was home audio. i had (and still have) sony dual 8" floor standing speakers. they would smell like you wouldn't believe but they never blew. i read online and had friends say that all speakers smell like this, its there break in period and its how you know you are using your speaker to its fullest potential. of course i was 15 at the time and believed this. i would turn the speakers up loud enough to hear the coils smacking into the magnet, sounded like a hammer on a rail road tie. still i never blew the sonys. move onto car audio and i started off wanting to recreate this... with disastrous results. when my SP4 burnt up i couldnt understand how a kicker 2500.1 could set fire to such a powerful sub and after i had it oscoped at that. live and learn is all any of us can do.

is this good enough for the recone? spent a few hours getting all of the spider off. the screw driver trick only worked on half of it and even then it did not take off the bottom layer.

that should shatter the glue and pop the spider off eh? ill give it a go tomorrow. my recone ships on the 17th so i just need to get things ready by delivery date.

i emailed crachendo 4 times and never got a reply. if you know how to get T/s specs from them please let me know.

i ran a BL on 2500W for a year and had no issue with it, it got warm from time to time and once or twice it smelled. i bought a SP4 and had the gains up to high and it set fire to the cab of my truck. the dust cap did get very warm but i figured if a BL could take it why not a SP4? end of the day just keep an eye on it. you can always set your gains to 0 on your amp/deck and then its pretty much a guarantee you wont clip it but you also wont be maxing its potential either, or your amps for that matter.

oh ok. i have the brushes in my truck so ill get them and go to work. ive got a die grinder so that might work better than a drill

my issue seems to be getting the spider mostly unglued from the basket to start with.

how do i get the spider off the basket? ive been sitting here for 40 min with a razor and all ive managed to do is remove a 1/2" section and cut into the aluminum basket.

lots of people around the net have said how great they sound so i did not have a second thought about them after seeing a few videos on youtube. plus for a door speaker i never looked at anything other than watts before. when i bought these i didnt know how to setup a cross over yet either.

i replaced it already. i would really like to know the T/S of these damn things but i emailed crachendo, no response. the guy said he would post them on here, no response... i dont get how you can sell a speaker and not list anything... i bought them because i needed to replace my alpines and i wanted something louder. i found great reviews on crachendos (not just there website) and i have seen many people say what a great speaker they are for the price. that was my reasoning behind the purchase.

well given that the sub is most likely about a quarter of a cubic foot displacement and then the wood will take up about .3 cubic feet (measuring 1 cubic as OD not ID). i would hazard a guess that one would need at least 1.25 cubic feet to build a box for an 18 that does not work. as for the PWX's: i really want to try and get the most out of these that i can, if for no other reason then to experience how boxes and tuning can change the sound. i will learn far more from screwing around with these than i will throwing them out and getting another speaker. that said it is entirely possible that 4 months down the road i buy a different brand but the end goal is a good sounding stereo however the journey getting there is where the real experience lies. im going to build a 75hz box for the pwx tomorrow and see what it sounds like. i am nearly positive there is no way i would ever be able to fit this kind of box in my door regardless of the speaker i am using but still... for a proof of concept and experience in box building id like to try it. for this same reason i rebuilt my transmission with factory parts when everyone told me i would kill it. and sure enough my newly rebuilt transmission lasted me a month and a half before it lost 3 gears and the clutch packs were warped beyond recognition. after that i rebuilt it with 2500.00 in high performance parts and billet components. its been over a year now and zero issues with the trans. sure i spent about 400.00 on stock parts i did not need but i learned how a trans fails, how it looks when it does and what it feel like. this to me is more than worth the 400.00. just in-case anyone is thinking it; the trans did not fail due to a shotty rebuild, it failed because factory power is 235hp and 398 ft/lbs or torque and my engine produces 487HP and 1,047 ft/lbs of torque.

i was expecting to get some T/S parameters from a member on here who i assume works with the speakers. i have not received a PM yet but i hold out hope they will come. if i dont have any by this weekend im going to give it my best guess and build a vented box just to see what they sound like. i have seen many people use crachendos in large systems and in competition. personally i think they sound much better than my alpines did but most of that is because they are a 10" and my alpine was a 6.5. the sheer volume they add is what i was after when i bought them. they do a very good job reproducing the lower end vocals up untill about the 2500hz mark wich is about what i expected. there website lists them as going much higher than 2500 and they do but past that the audio is not super clear. paired with a tweeter xover at a lower frequency they work well. most of what i am going for here is the bass end of things, but where as most people xover a sub at 80 and are happy with there mids from 80-500 i want the same volume my sub gives me at 40hz to be there at 100hz. no set of 10" mids is going to do that when you compare them to a SP4 18. so i expect to install some sealed boxes in the doors to maximize the PWX potental and then from there ill tweak my sub/subs to fill it all in. i am convinced there is not a 6.5" speaker on the market that can give me what i am looking for or do a better job than these PWX's given the application i want them to fufill. i am sure there are better 8 or 10" mids but for the price and considering i already have these speakers i dont see a reason to buy new 10's. that being said i am considering building a 8" hole into the fiber glass panel so i can add 2 speakers to the front and perhaps then i would get more volume. i have room for some of crescendos super tweets up in my doors as well and i was thinking of getting some. there is a video on youtube of a guy comparing the old crachendos with the new PWX and his music sound great out of his doors. while i am not looking to go quite to this extreme i am fine with 2 mids and 2 tweets per door. tldr: i dont think crachendos are as bad as people think they are, they are no polk but they are also not marketed for the same application either. the video:

i had my xover off and my volume up after my sub blew so i could get as much bass as possible while i drove around. i hooked up a friends sub so he could hear it and i forgot to retune my system. max volume and the 10's were getting 3 times the power they should have been and the amp was clipping to shit...

it does fit the budget, id just like to know how its been designed differently than the SSD or Q. i know the SP4 sub is intended mostly for SPL with a dash of music in there, the BL is a bit better balance between response of volume and the Q is intended for fidelity over volume. how do the X and SSD come into the picture with in these confines?

i was looking into the X for a client who wants a system installed in her van for her and her sons. i was looking at the X as its a smaller 10" sub that is only 750W but i cant find any real information in how it differences to a Q or SSD. i found plenty of posts stating 350W rms but the website lists 750W rms. i assume there was an older model of this sub. how does this sub differ from a Q, SSD, and BL? secondly i see the BP option which i think means it can take more power but how exactly does this work and how much more power or thermal handling does this add? thanks. edit: quality over volume and a ZX750.1 is what i was looking at for this build.

any update on T/s? i have a blown 10" pwx, how can i tell from taking it apart what the specs are?

ive ordered 5 subs from Fi so far. first one took about 3 months, second took 2 months and a week. third and fourth were about 6 weeks and the last one took 4 weeks to the day. subs were Q's, BL, and SP4. in 12's and 18's.

i will send you a pm tomorrow morning as a reminder

here is a 3D model of the 70hz box. ill test this thing out tomorrow, i was able to make it a bit smaller but i think i might be hard pressed to fit a .82 cubic foot box into my door. perhaps not; i have not calculated internal door volume yet.