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shareef777

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  1. What tool would I need to cut it? All I have are the basics. I'm getting the wood cut at Home Depot so I don't have anything at my disposal. Figured if I build a box 26x26x12 and mount the sub facing up, that'll give me ~4 cubic feet after the displacement by the wood and sub. I'd have another 1-1.5 cubic feet to use for the port. Now, with a 26x26x12 box, how/where should I place/face the port so that it takes only 1-1.5 cubes and what are it's dimensions so that the sub is tuned to 32-35Hz?
  2. The height is 13" high. Removing 1.5" for the top and bottom panels, that'll leave me with a baffle that is 11.5" high. I just don't think that the 11.5" high baffle will hold the sub securely or last too long. The alternate solution would be to mount the baffle outside the top, bottom, and side panels which would keep it 13" high, but how secure would the baffle be sitting outside the panels?
  3. Ok, I'm not looking to cut anything out the car. I removed the back seats and figured I can get 13" high with that. Oh well, thanks anyway.
  4. I don't follow. Which way should the sub face? What box dimensions did you have (specifically height) to get it to fit in the trunk?
  5. Just to make sure I can clear the opening I figured I'd make the box with dimensions of 26x26x12 and have the sub facing up and the port facing towards the front (or some other direction if necessary). I still need help with the exact dimensions and a box diagram @ 35Hz. Looking around at various sites that have box calculators I'm getting different answers. Any idea?
  6. Looks like I'll be mounting the sub from the top.
  7. I hope I'm not being difficult. My concern was that with the baffle only 11.5" high, cutting a hole 11.125" would leave too little MDF (under a quarter inch) above and below the cut out that it would crack when the sub starts hitting. BTW, thanks for the really quick responses. I plan on building the box this weekend (and hopefully the BTL I ordered arrives by then).
  8. Will the baffle actually be 13" high? Won't the top panel and bottom panel remove .75" each?
  9. Thanks, I like your suggestion. I'm thinking of just expanding the port to 3" and the 10" piece down to 7" to get it closer to the 32-35 Hz recommended rating for the BTL. My only concern now is the baffle. With only a 13" clearance (subtract .75" for the top and another .75" for the bottom), I'm down to only 11.5" high for the baffle. Not big enough to cut a whole out in the sub. Looks like I'll have to mount the sub on top.
  10. Looks good, thanks. But after taking about the back seat I noticed that the corners of the opening are curved in. So my width is now limited to 28". My dimensions are now 28x28x13.
  11. I own a 2003 Mustang GT, and am trying to get the best system I can in it. I have VERY limited trunk space and so chose a single fully loaded 12" BTL powered by a Kicker ZX2500.1 (2500 watts RMS into one channel @ 2 ohms). I also have a kinetic 2500 in the trunk. The trunk opening is too small to get any sized box thru so I'll be installing it thru the back seat. The opening is 13" high by 32" wide, and 28" deep. I'm looking for a ported box to get the most bang out of the sub. Anyone got the best design for the BTL with the max dimensions (13x32x28)? Thanks.

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