KU40

But they also made a dual basket sub as well, so that should show what influences their designs sometimes.

My name should help you figure out where I live

no its actually rated at 1500w. fi underrates it on the site. so im actually putting an extra 300 on it. the bl is in between the q and the btl (RMS ~1500) If they publish the numbers on their site, don't you think it's what FI wants it rated as? Where did you get this "actually rated at 1500 watts?"

no its actually rated at 1500w. fi underrates it on the site. so im actually putting an extra 300 on it. the bl is in between the q and the btl (RMS ~1500) If they publish the numbers on their site, don't you think it's what FI wants it rated as? Where did you get this "actually rated at 1500 watts?"

no its actually rated at 1500w. fi underrates it on the site. so im actually putting an extra 300 on it. the bl is in between the q and the btl (RMS ~1500) If they publish the numbers on their site, don't you think it's what FI rates it as? Where did you get this "actually rated at 1500 watts?"

It's a marketing gimmick basically. There's no guarantee that the fuse will blow before the sub does anyways. Plus you can still blow the sub mechanically, the fuse has no bearing on that.

That seems illogical since larger enclosures have higher efficiency. Smaller boxes have a larger peak which may make them SEEM SPL oriented.

I'd buy the 1200 and save the money. Plus less chance for problems.

How are we supposed to help you if you don't tell us what sub and voice coil configuration you have?

The tunings won't change just because you have a different sub, the box doesn't care what sub is in there. The net volume will change a tad because of the different displacements of the sub and that'll affect the tuning, but it will be negligible.

Yeah you really just need to learn to listen for stress. If this is in a trunk it makes things more difficult because you can't hear the distortion as well inside the car. You have to open the trunk and stand behind it a few feet to hear it well. But also, it may not have been the installer's fault. You, after all, have your hand on the volume knob. If they set the gain on the amp with the head unit on volume 30 but you turn it up to 40, you're going to have problems.

Yes, and I punted him.

Oh MK I say keep it.

Music is also definitely not recorded the same, either. If you're comparing Def Leppard to 36 Mafia, well......

hey, there are a couple of us from Kansas. What city/town are you in? I have a '98 Explorer as well.

I have zero desire to live in any city larger than Lawrence (80,000). Maybe that's because I grew up in a town of 20,000 and it took 5 minutes to get anywhere in town. Loved that. This 45 minutes to go anywhere in a big city is for the birds.

Hahahahaha that's hilarious.

yuck. I feel so restricted. I need the looseness and relaxed feel.

ah, crap I bet that's unbelievable pain. At least it looks like it on House.

I have a peerless soft dome tweet in my HT and I like it a lot. I can't remember the product number, though. Maybe 812687? But point is that if these are similar to mine, I'd like them.

what amp? What is this "frequency?" The lowpass crossover, a subsonic filter, bass boost center?

download winISD alpha and put them on there. You'll have to decide on specific drivers, though. Response in the box depends entirely on drivers chosen. Simply going with generic cone size won't tell you much. By that notion, the four 15s have 707 sq. inches, nine 10s have 707 sq. inches, and twenty 8s have 1005 sq. inches. But the 8s won't play as low as the 10s, which won't play as low as the 15s. Each set has its tradeoffs.

cripes I need to fix the time on here.

Depending on the box you put it in, 900 watts could actually be overpowering the speaker. Thermally it will be fine, in fact it will thank you for the less power. The only thing you should have to worry about here (if you don't clip the amp a ton) is the mechanical side of the equation. If you build a box on the smaller side of FI's recommendations, the sub may not quite be playing at its limits. But if you build a box a bit larger than they recommend, you may get full output and possibly even exceed the mechanical limits of the sub with a large enough box. So, as you see, it's all in the box.

Oh we must have a miscommunication lol. After you answered what full tilt was, I asked what does phase do lol. ohhhhhh ok. Phase is referring to the subs placement in relation to the port. If the port is facing forward, and subs up, it is a 90degree phase err, no. Phase has to do with the output wave, as Bromo pictured up. You then use it to match your other speakers since they are all at different lengths from your ears, as Duran noted. So basically yeah, you just play with the setting until the wave from the sub matches those from your front speakers. Usually if the sub is out of phase with your interior speakers it will sound like it's a step behind or ahead of the interiors on midbass notes. Play with the phase setting until they sound like they're one single sound.