KU40

what is with everybody posting the DCR of the subs as if it's the nominal load? "I have dual .7 ohm coils......" no, you have dual 1 ohm. "My amp is seeing 1.4 ohms...." No, it's seeing at least 2. AC vs DC people.....

it's not dry rot. It would probably take at least 20 years for that to happen. With a tune at 45 hz and that obvious suspension damage due to overexcursion, 95% chance they played well below tuning and were too deaf to hear the stressing.

and maximum dimensions that the box can be?

well, i believe they do add together in sorts, but at the slope side of things, not the frequency. In that case you'd have a -18db slope from 80 hz down from your head unit, then 36db slope down below 200 hz. It won't hurt anything to have it like that. It's just a steeper slope.

have you ever used box modeling software? Download winISD pro alpha and play with it. you can see the response curve differences with different tuning frequencies of a box. Lower tuned boxes have a more flat response, higher tuned boxes have a greater peak just above tuning. The response curve you'll see on there isn't exactly what you'll find in your car since that graph is based on the enclosure basically being out in the middle of a field and your car will have its own acoustic properties that will affect the response curve. But it's a decent general idea. But if you're wanting the best SPL, it's like Adrian said. Lots of testing.

I'm not even sure how to answer the questions you're asking because I don't rightly know what you are actually asking.

Can't compare house power to car power. There's a huge difference in wire size needed because of the current loads between the two. It's a heck of a lot easier for a wire to run 120 volts than 120 amps. To the OP, I think you'll be fine with your 150 amp alternator and two batteries if you use 1/0 and upgrade the big 3.

OMFG, how can somebody be that stupid? The people on that forum are apparently very mean, or else that kid did something really, really bad to them. He did something extremely stupid. He welded the pinion to the ring instead of the spider gears together. Plenty of pictures of welded gears and he couldn't do it right. This morning I only read the first few posts, but just now I went back and read a few more pages. I think on page 4 he says it was a joke. The vehicle this was coming out of was really messed up (unfixable) so he decided to play a joke on the forum and welded them together then came on the forum and claimed to be naive.

if your box blows apart it can be blamed more on not having enough bracing than not having screws, even if it comes apart at the seam. The reason your box blows apart is because the sides bow out too much from internal pressure. If you brace your box well enough so that the box walls don't bow out, you don't need screws or anything. On every box I've built and tore down, when I broke it apart it broke apart just like an inch from the seam. The glue is stronger than the wood.

OMFG, how can somebody be that stupid? The people on that forum are apparently very mean, or else that kid did something really, really bad to them.

wtf? is the owner going to dry hump her when he gets lonely? Could he not get real chicks?

I'd face it forward and seal it off behind the front baffle. That way you don't have to pressurize the air in the trunk. and I'd personally do the ported box, if that 3.5 cubes is after port and sub displacement.

i'd choose two level 3s.

I'd try cutting some holes in the back to help the pressure escape (but not so much that it makes the deck weak and rattle more), then cover the thing with a bunch of deadener. Really you just need a bunch of mass to put on it to help stop the vibration.

Yeah they may have been touching. Take the sub out and double check your wiring. If you have the two coils out of phase the sub won't move. And if any of the wires is touching the basket of the sub it will send the amp into protect.

That wasn't posted here, was it? I thought I remember it being somewhere before.

ah so you were doing it right and using xmax for port area. I'm so used to hearing people use the 12 sq. inches per cubic foot that I was thinking you were using xmax for length or something. me. Wiring in threes, that's an interesting solution.

and I came home today to literally at least 25 ladybugs crawling around my bedroom window and the wall it's on. Ugh, kinda gross even though they're just ladybugs. I was squishing them for like 15 minutes. I don't even know how they got in, my window is halfway plastic-d up for the winter (ran out of plastic, ha. last window in the house I did).

I typed a big post a while ago but when I hit add reply it said timed out or something . But basically it said that besides the one roommate I knew I was getting, my roommates gf, she brough another roommate- a cat. It's a really nice cat but hella undisciplined and pain in the butt. If I only push my door closed without it latching, she'll push it open and run under my bed. My bed is in a corner so when she gets way back there, there's no way for me to get her out. I'm afraid she'll leave me a surprise under there and it'll be hell.

yeah oops I meant check the rating of the capacitor, not resistor.

I don't have sigs turned on so I'm glad some of you other mods do!

Sorry to hear about that Peng, glad you're getting better. Damn stupid other drivers.

Find the rating of the resistor that is the bass blocker. When you get that you can look up online what frequency it cuts off at, if you also know the impedance of the tweeter. soft- silk hard- metal, like aluminum or titanium. They generally have quite different sound, softs are more laid back while hards are more accurate but can also be more bright or have that "ringing" sound. I personally prefer softs. But nobody can tell you what you'll like, so I'd suggest going to a shop and listening to different component sets with the different types.

the remote wire should be reading 12 volts. So if it's at only 3, something's wrong. But since you said even when you jumped the power wire to the remote it didn't turn on, that's not the cause. You said that it sparked when you plugged the power wire into the amp. Did you touch the power wire to the terminal or to the heat sink when it sparked? If you touched it to the heat sink the amp is toast. That's why you always have to remove the under-hood fuse before putting the power wire into the amp.

Why did you need to assume a driver xmax? That doesn't play into configuring a port. As for subs......interesting, they have like the exact same sd. ha. Well.....I'd choose 15s because most of them can play lower than their same-model 10s. But I don't know how you'd wire 9 subs for 1 ohm? I suppose you could do 4 ohm DVCs and wire each in series then all the subs in parallel for a .88 ohm load. May be close enough to 1. That's the only way you'd be able to have them all receive the same power.