KU40

If you can find an MMATS D50HC it'll do it.

well winISD just tries to get you the flattest response when you first open the sub in it. That doesn't mean it will sound the best, though. You can change the box size and tuning in winISD to what FI recommends, and you can use it for things like port size and length.

So again, what about the specs makes you disappointed? Maybe you should listen to them before making a judgment?

is there maybe something being left on when you turn the car off that drained the battery?

If you need to do that it is a classic sign that your system isn't setup right and the gain on the sub channel should be lower. Well, if anybody is like me (yeah, scary thought huh?) there are days when you want to rock out and days when you don't. Plus you have some musicians who boost or cut the bass when they record. Yes there is something to be said about playing it how the artist recorded and intended it, but some rappers boost the bass so much that you can't hear the words even at the same settings as other music that sounds fine.

is she nekked under that robe cali?

No he has normal wire, not an RCA from his receiver and an RCA input on his subwoofer. I believe he was suggesting to use an LOC.

changes the sound wave's timing. If you look at two sine waves on an o-scope and they are 180 degrees out of phase, they will cross the reference line at the same point, but one will be going up after that point and the other will be going down. The peak of one sine wave will correspond to the valley of the other sine wave. Waves that are 0 degrees out of phase will lie on top of each other. Then if you move up from 0 degrees, one sine wave will start drifting sideways from the other. They will cross the x-axis a little farther apart with each increase in phase shift. Then you hit 180 and they're total opposites. Then as you go higher, up to 360, they start moving back together again. Tried to explain that as simply as possible, hope the visual still got through.

what about the specs makes you disappointed? What amp are you going to use on them?

it's nice to be able to control the sub's output from the driver's seat. For that reason, most people set the gain with the head unit sub output maxed out, as helotaxi said. Then you can turn the sub down in relation to your interior speakers if you don't want it so loud sometimes.

because i already have the sub and i have no idea what that means. ah so really your "buddy" was you. Anyways, the other part of my statement still applies. if you already have the 1206, there's no reason to change it.

wow, I'm showered and fed and it's only 7:45. It's usually like 9:30-10 by the time I get all this done. I'm not sure what to do with myself now.......

Well, the hifonics will still put out power at 2 ohms. Just because the amp is stable down to 1 ohm doesn't mean you have to use it. I mean I generally agree that yeah, may as well match the amp and sub. But my point is that if he already has the D1 sub and hifonics amp, there's no need to waste money to change it when there will not be a noticeable difference. Plus 900 watts (or however much the hifonics 1206 actually puts out at 2 ohms) is just fine for an SSD.

If you have a D1 sub and I assume have the coils wired in series for 2 ohms, there is absolutely no reason to "upgrade" to the 1608d. You get 200 extra watts of power. you will NEVER be able to tell the difference. That's less than 1 db difference at that level. Save your money. Why not get a D2 so that you can wire it in parallel and get 1200 watts from the 1208d?

Somebody can't park for shit.

The z is just the nominal impedence of the sub. so if you have a 4 ohm SVC sub, it's 4. if you have a 4 ohm DVC sub with the coils wired in series for the measurements, it's 8. The Pe is just the peak power, I believe. Just put it at 1000 or something. Maybe somebody else has the le.

The 3.7 cube one will have higher efficiency, so it'll get as loud on less power, but then it'll also run into mechanical limits with less power also. It will also improve the lowend a little, which is where the perceived loudness is. For overall loudness I think it depends on how much power you have and if you can reach mechanical limits in either box.

that one in purple looks like she's one bump away from having her boobs fall out.

I wouldn't aim the ports into the corners unless you have a decent amount of room between the port opening and the sides of the vehicle. Probably at least 6". It's also generally better to have the subs and port on the same face, or if not no more than 90 degrees away. Most installs I've seen in trucks have both the ports and subs facing up and most of the rest have them both forward.

I'm being a bum. My roommate invited me to KC with him and his friends but after that long trip I just took I just want some relax time without traveling or having 20 people immediately around me.

morning. day off tomorrow yayyyy

Yeah I didn't figure it could be anything too fancy. That area of town sure didn't look whippy at all and there was trash strewn all around and graffiti on every wall. I was on the lookout for stray bullets.

Why is this a new thread in the newbie sign-in? What thread are you referencing? This post should go in there.

most alternators put out that much. The voltage that you see on the dashboard or from measuring at the battery terminals is an average of the alternator's voltage and the battery's voltage. Now if his vehicle's voltmeter is measuring that much, something may be amiss.

Just play with the phase until it blends the best with your mids. I'd put the subsonic around 20. low pass filter setting depends on how well your sub can play the higher bass frequencies and how low your mids can go. Generally I like to keep it somewhere between 60 and 80.