KU40

Well if it has just started a year after installing it, it's not likely an installation issue. It's more likely an equipment malfunction.

You can't just arbitrarily pick a port length. You need to decide what you want to tune it to and pick the port length from that. So you want your port to be 2" x 11" and 28" long, how big is the box going to be (net, that the sub will see)?

sounds like the alarm has gone bad. If you have a warranty, take it back to Circuit City (better hurry before they go bankrupt and close!).

4.5 cubic feet can eat up all of the floor area in an SUV's cargo area if you want it to, or it can occupy a lot less floor area. As you're planning box dimensions, decide if you would rather have a tall box that leaves a lot of open floor area, or if perhaps a box that takes up the entire floor would be better. If it took up the entire floor, you could make into sort of a false floor and put pieces of wood from the sides of the box to the sides of the cargo area so that you have a flat surface on which to put things. It would basically just be like your normal floor but raised up 12" or so. The problem if you make it somewhere in the middle is the problem I have now- You either have to squish things between the box and the vehicle walls or set it on top of the box but there isn't much room.

did the voltage drop at all when the auto parts stores were testing it? Simplify this thing down a little and go step-by-step. Turn off the radio so that none of the amps are on. Sit there idly and see if the voltage fluctuates. Then turn the A/C on and see if it fluctuates. Then add headlights and other systems to put more of a strain on and see. Then go back and disconnect the remotes on all of the amps so that they won't turn on when you turn the radio on. Only the head unit and EQ should turn on then. See how the voltage reacts. Then add the remote wire back into one amp at a time and see how the voltage reacts. Between adding each amp, start with the volume all the way down, and then raise it up to maximum listening level. That way you can see if one individual amp is causing something or if it's just overall load. Also disconnect the cap for this test, and add it back in at the very end after everything else has been tested. Are you reading the voltage from the cap or from your vehicle's voltmeter when you notice these problems? If reading it from the cap, don't trust it.

Woke up this morning and thought it was Wednesday. But it's not. darn. First post in replacement hop.

The 6th order will have higher efficiency than a ported box. I've never heard of a bandpass lowering power handling any differently than a ported box. But that could just mean I haven't heard it. winISD doesn't show it lowering overall power handling, but it has curves lower than tuning just like a ported box so they behave similarly in that fashion. So of course it depends on tuning as to where it will unload, just like a ported box.

You cannot generalize like this. Every amp and head unit combination will yield a different gain setting. The gain is set to match the head unit's voltage. That's it. If you have a head unit that puts out 6 volts and your amp's gain goes from 0.5-6 volts, you'll need to have the gain completely down. If the head unit puts out .5 volts, you may need to have it all the way up. Setting the phase to 150 is also generalized, and 99% of the time will be incorrect. You set the phase of the sub to match the interior speakers and what sounds best. Every vehicle will be different in its acoustics, as will every sub/box combo and interior speaker relationships. It doesn't matter if you have two subs, they will always be in phase with each other as long as you wired them correctly, and they should be. If you wire one out of phase with the other in the same box, it won't work. It's just like switching polarity on interior speakers to get them to sound right with each other.

It really depends on the manufacturer. some manufacturers use the same motor, spiders, and everything, on the different size subs in a line (except the cone and surround) to make it easier on them. In that case, the Mms increases, Fs changes, lots of other things change. So different size subs in the same line can easily sound different. But other manufacturers tweak each size's parts so that all of the sizes perform relatively similar. But larger woofers play lower because of the increased swept volume and a generally lower Fs.

Indeed. and I have heard plenty of unsnappy 10s.

2.00 first round through. edit: oh wait, 2.82 for the 3 round total average.

I've been saying for years how retarded it is that it gets so much attention and drama.

I never knew it was a problem. But you see this a lot? Maybe I'll have to rethink things.......

i think with those amps you would be better off getting the BL's plus they have free cooling now that saves you another $40 p/sub BTL will play nice of a Saz 3000D But to get to your guestion a 1500 will work nicely of a 140 Amps alt. for a single 3000D a 200 amp alt will work nice with an upgraded battery. **Remember what might be said to be the best, might not always be the best for you. The BTL will also play nice off of the 1500. 140 amp alt should be ok for the 1500. Make sure your battery is also strong. If you have any other amps you might consider getting an additional battery.

why wouldn't that amp work for the 15 if it works for the 12? To me it comes down to space when deciding between 12 vs 15. Figure that out.

Port displacement is 1.42 cubes. sub displacement?????? I'm guessing .2 cubes. Therefore, box volume is 6.4 cubes. tuned to 34 hz according to winISD. What's 10.57 in. diameter?

If nobody knows, try emailing PG. I got an answer from JL when I emailed them about the XR crossover points.

Took off work tomorrow, hooray! Actually the thing I'm looking forward to the most is sleeping in........until 7:30 probably. But I only took off because we'll be traveling to my aunt's wedding that's tomorrow night. Then on Saturday I have another wedding to go to in my gf's family that's 1920s-themed. Too many weddings in one weekend. If I hear the chicken dance one time it'll be too many. If I hear it twice I'll shoot myself.

oh, right. He already has it. Well nvm then. As I'm sure you've read, Mach5 recommends 4.6 cubes sealed for that 18. Even with polyfill a 3 cube enclosure won't react like a 4.6. If you have a lot of processing that could lower the peakiness of that smaller enclosure to bring it to the relatively low output lowend it might work. But....... I think the JLs would be better and much easier to implement.

Have to be careful, some of that is marketing with some companies. But also quite a bit of it is the cheapness of power these days. If you remember Hoffman's Iron Law, it says you can have two of the following three: small box, efficiency, or lowend extension. If you can throw gobs of power at a sub, it doesn't really need to be efficient. So you can lower that so that a smaller box can be used while maintaining the lows.

I would like, please.

Well you asked about 5 subs, so why wouldn't 4 work? Or was 5 just an arbitrary example? And why not tell us all that this system entails so that we know what's actually going on and can maybe help further.

I'd just keep it simple and do the one amp. Then once you want to run fully active, trade the Rockford off for a different amp to run the subs and use the Sundown 100.4 to run active to the comps.

why not just get 4?

why not get an IXL 15" and put it in that 3 cubes sealed?