KU40

I'd probably go as big as possible. Use all 2 feet.

Playing basketball tonight ftw

Took tomorrow off work since I still had my discretionary holiday and it has to be used up before the 25th or else I lose it.

Aaron it appears I shall be ordering an SAE1200 from you soon. I mean is there an amplifier even close to that performance for only $280? My survey says no.

Which do you have? BMF 1000D. Was supposed to be good back like 5 years ago. Maybe not. Ok that is newer than what I have. I have the CFA models. Which ones were the CFA's? And my BMF 1000D's ran great for years. I take that back. I've had THREE fail on me. I bought one 5 years ago from an SPL competitor, it failed (figured it had had a hard life). Bought a new used one, it failed last winter. Had it remanufactured, it failed again yesterday. Only amp i've ever had fail. Why would you continue to buy them, lol Well...... no good answer for you. Haha. Apparently it just takes me three times to learn my lesson. But as I said, they used to have a good reputation from what I heard and read a good objective somewhat technical review. Basically it nearly did its rated 2 ohm power at 4 ohm, 1 ohm power at 2 ohms, etc., was efficient, had decent crossovers, etc. Well here it is: http://www.carsound.com/review_archive/amps/BMF1000D.html

I thought when it came to components, the rear ones were actually the good ones? Since the cone is bigger and you can have 3-way speakers. So according to you, 2 pairs of 61/2 Type X for front and back should be no problem at all right? Just get an adapter to fit them in whatever fit you have in that car Quite the opposite in fact. There are many advantages of components over coaxials, including but not limited to: No hole in the cone of the mid for the tweeter tower Easily movable and mounting tweeter to a more favorable position for imaging 1,000 times better crossover. Compenent sets come with crossovers which house lowpass crossovers for the mid and highpass crossovers for the tweeter, often 2nd order (12 db/octave). All that coaxials MIGHT come with is a little capacitor for the tweeter, giving it a -6db slope. The mid runs full range. Three-way coaxials are even worse. Now you have three speakers playing the same frequencies, because, again, the woofer and "mid" will have no crossovers on them. Ability to biamp the tweeter and mid in a component set. Also, larger cone in the case of a 6x9 is not favorable to the smaller, round 6.5". You will not find a person on this site who would favor an oval cone. You could run components in the back if you really wanted to. You'd just have to fabricate a conversion baffle as you said.

Which do you have? BMF 1000D. Was supposed to be good back like 5 years ago. Maybe not. SAE1200D v2 if you want to change it. Based just on the guts..it's very underrated That's actually the one I was kinda thinking about

Which do you have? BMF 1000D. Was supposed to be good back like 5 years ago. Maybe not. Ok that is newer than what I have. I have the CFA models. Which ones were the CFA's? And my BMF 1000D's ran great for years. I take that back. I've had THREE fail on me. I bought one 5 years ago from an SPL competitor, it failed (figured it had had a hard life). Bought a new used one, it failed last winter. Had it remanufactured, it failed again yesterday. Only amp i've ever had fail.

Manufacturers know that most people who choose those higher-end component sets don't use rear fill. Plus they don't want to "dumb down" the components to make them into a coaxial.

Which do you have? BMF 1000D. Was supposed to be good back like 5 years ago. Maybe not.

Dammit. My stupid Crossfire amp blew again in the cold. Go out and start the car and an immediate thump. In the rearview mirror I see smoke. What a POS. Second straight winter this stupid thing has done this. Time for a better designed amp.

High of 14* here today with wind chill of -5*. Low of -6* tonight with a wind chill about -20. Holy cow. I cannot remember a day or night this cold here.

Snow day for me too! "Due to weather conditions, all state offices in Topeka will be closed." Yee-haw. We still only got about 2" here, but in Topeka they probably got about 5", and my coworker that lives 45 minutes north of there got about 10" but huuuge snow drifts (30-40 mph winds will do that). How much did you get Ryan2?

Ha ha, that bottle says mount gay.

Well the snow and bad roads kept us from going to the city council meeting tonight. So no off day on Friday for me. Darn.

You will need more port area. Make the port at least 2" wide. Also, if you use one side of the enclosure as one side of the port, port displacement uses up less internal volume.

It is really only meant for IB applications. What are the specs of the box and what is your budget?

Really? Weird. Weather.com still only forecasts 1-2 tonight, 3-5 tomorrow, 1-3 tom. night, so I guess 5-10" here. Which is higher than it was just a bit ago. I guess they're adding on. Yep, you are to far east to get the most of this I think, and not far enough north (not that we are any farther north than you are). Yeah. We only got maybe 1" last night, and by the looks of the radar and the lack of what's SW of us (heading this way), we are going to underperform the forecasts.

5 month old thread.

Well the sub is only responisve down to 30 Hz, would i want to tune the box down that low? What do you mean only responsive down to 30 hz? I assume the manufacturer just says frequency response 30-400 hz or something like that? That doesn't mean the sub can't play anything below that. Just that the response below that is outside whatever parameter they used to set the range.

Stop it.

Going to bed early tonight top. Gonna be up late tomorrow night at a city council meeting for work, which starts at 7:00pm at a town 175 miles away. So I won't be getting home till probably 11-12.

If those are truly your goals I'd actually edge towards sealed. If you really want ported, perhaps 30-32 hz.

Really? Weird. Weather.com still only forecasts 1-2 tonight, 3-5 tomorrow, 1-3 tom. night, so I guess 5-10" here. Which is higher than it was just a bit ago. I guess they're adding on.

How would you kill the alt listening to the stereo with the car off? That doesnt make sense. The alt isnt even on. I would do the big three but do not replace any wires. Only add them and leave the stock ones in place. I would try and run the wire straight from the alt to the batt. I wouldnt be worried about decibles or hitting harder until you fix your problem. Technically the alternator would have to work a bit harder once the car was started to recharge the at-least-somewhat drained battery. However, over time, this would likely wear out the battery faster than the alternator. But still.