KU40

It's not about the difference in wattage by number, it's difference by percentage. 40 watt difference isn't much when going from 300 to 260, no, but from 80 to 40 it's a lot more. But, that being said, neither 2000 to 2500 nor 260 to 300 are significant.

I deleted your thread in the Fi technical section as you only need one. This happens in essentially every vehicle, with every sub setup. The deal is that you lose cancellation by allowing a place for the waves to escape rather than bounce back into themselves. There's nothing you can do when it gets cold, as this only happens when an opening to the outside is created.

Wait, he said if you use more port area there would be port noise? Do yourself a favor, never go back to that shop again. He has no idea what he's talking about. A smaller port, such as yours that he made at 14 sq. inches, is where port noise becomes an issue. You need a larger port to move more air. It's like trying to move 1000 gallons/minute through a 1" pipe (14 sq. inches of port) vs an 8" pipe (35 sq. inches).

even though he's a dbag.

Roids?? Crystal Methe? PCP?

im needin a 4ohm load to run my ssd12d2 so thats not enough You can wire it to a 1 ohm load. 1ohm aint cracked up to b like everyone thinks sloppy n more likely to blow sumthin not a clean signal im good w 4ohm thanks English man, speak english. For all those amps you mentioned, cut the RMS power in half and that's about what you'll get out of them. If you try to push them to their rated power you'll get 10% THD. So there goes your cleaner signal than 1 ohm theory. must have been english u obviously understood me so dont be rude im here tryin to get some valueble input not attitude We have standards on this board. Read this:

What enclosure do you want? Tuned to what frequency? I'll just throw one out for the heck of it. 8 cubes @ 32 hz. Outside dimensions: 38w x 22h x 24.5d. Port 100 sq. inches x 24.5" long. That assumes 3/4" wood. I'd suggest a little bracing, perhaps some all thread.

LOL! hahahahaha We've all been there. My ex was right to the point of being curious about it when we broke up. So I have not been there.

im needin a 4ohm load to run my ssd12d2 so thats not enough You can wire it to a 1 ohm load. 1ohm aint cracked up to b like everyone thinks sloppy n more likely to blow sumthin not a clean signal im good w 4ohm thanks English man, speak english. For all those amps you mentioned, cut the RMS power in half and that's about what you'll get out of them. If you try to push them to their rated power you'll get 10% THD. So there goes your cleaner signal than 1 ohm theory.

Why does it matter? Even if you have a head unit or EQ with really high signal voltage outputs, you can dial those down to within acceptable range of the amps. That said, I don't know.

Maybe do 6 15s then. 4 cubes sealed is quite a bit different than 2.8. Stuffing with polyfill generally only gains you about 10% in box volume, so you'd still be a little under 3.1 cubes per sub, given that equation.

LOL! hahahahaha

I think my PS2 is finally broked. I tried turning it on a dozen times the other day but it wouldn't output video or sound. For the last year I've had to start it, then restart it and it would work fine. And it has also had a static noise issue if it wasn't sitting right. I guess it's time had come. I'd get a new PS3 but they can't play PS2 games, so that's worthless to me. I think I heard they're coming out with one that can though.

hahaha. I bet she felt special.

:( Really. You need to change your situation man. I am. Good to hear. Stay strong

Why not? is there something magical about them that makes them any different than a 12" sub to put in a sealed box? I wouldn't skimp on airspace for them. I'd think about just doing 4 instead. You won't lose that much output.

Making baffles is easy. Just take a bit of spare 1/2" wood (or whatever will be thin enough to allow your speaker to fit inside your door panel so that the surround doesn't hit the panel) and cut out a hole for a 6.5" speaker. If you have a jig saw this can be done in about 5 minutes. Then bolt that into the stock mounting holes. You'll then have to drill holes in the mounting baffle for your new speaker. If there are any uneven edges when you mount the new baffle on you may have to go around with some kind of sealant to make sure the wood is airtight against the door metal. Then if you can, cover up the rest of the holes in the door skin with some sound deadener.

Had to finally put the comforter on the bed tonight. My feet were cold the last two nights.

:( Really. You need to change your situation man.

If the subsonic is almost halfway it's around 35 hz. That's too high and is cutting off a number of usable frequencies. Try turning it down to maybe a little over 1/4. Also with the lowpass almost halfway it's around 160 hz. Waaaay too high. Turn it down to 1/4, or maybe where 80 hz might be. Turn the bass boost all the way down. Put the loudness on HU off and put the EQ on whatever you like the interior speakers to sound like. Then reset the gain.

I think he just mistyped and meant 1 ohm.

XCON and 1500D sound like a great combo.

It would be helpful to know what you have now that you want upgraded and what about it you don't like.

With 250 you could easily get a set of 6.5" components and an amp for them. Would you be willing to make mounting baffles to change the 5x7/6x8 hole into a 6.5" one?

I'd choose the middle one.