KU40

I think www.linearteam.org is the only place.

Yeah it should. The old W6s were great SQ woofers and many people say they prefer the new W6 to the W7s.

In fact, I am deleting this.

There aren't a whole lot of 6 channel amps out there. I think DLS used to make some back in the 90s? but that's about all that I know of. But why don't you just want to stick with the Kickers? Maybe keep one and just add a 4 channel amp to get your 6 channels.

Dust caps, whether inverted, regular, oversized, flat, etc., actually have no bearing on Sd at all. Because a sub is basically a piston, only the actual cross-sectional area between the surrounds matters. The dust cap shape only affects the sub's performance in terms of moving mass (larger dust caps weigh more, etc.), which the designer should be taking into account when he builds the sub anyways.

Parameters of the subs would be different just because of the coil size difference. Plus some parameters differ when a sub is wired in series vs. parallel.

Coed sports of anything are frustrating.

Right. The sub wired to the lower impedance will receive more power than the other one.

Try downloading winISD. It has a port calculator in it. This site also has one. Just remember that when you make the port, you have to add that and sub displacement to the gross box size. So if you want the sub to "see" 4 cubic feet but the port displaces 1 cube and the sub .15, you need to make a box that's 5.15 cubic feet internally. But when you use these port calculators, only use the 4 cubic feet as the box size parameter, as they only want net volume. Tuning frequency is a combination of what the sub likes and personal preference. I personally like 30 hz, and for you something between 30 and 32 sounds like it would be good.

Yeah wtf, fish is awesome.

Budget for amp and head unit? With your listening tastes I'd definitely recommend a ported box, probably something like 6-7 cubes @ 33 hz, if you can fit it. Give us some dimensions of your trunk and we can give better dimensions for a box that'll fit.

Perhaps it has to do with the parameters of the sub.

You also forgot to take out sub displacement. With 6 subs it's fairly significant, I'd say .5-.6 cubes total. So you have about a....we'll say 9.4 cube enclosure after all displacements. With what I understand to be an 8.5" wide by 7" tall by 9" deep port? If so you're tuned to about 33 hz. Which isn't a bad tune, but I imagine the subs are being squandered by the too-small box. I modeled the subs up in winISD, and the frequency response graph is fairly terrible. It's flat above its rolloff, but it doesn't go below about 50 hz and it drops off pretty fast. So I imagine its lack of sub-50 hz output is where your disappointment lies. Do you have pictures of the box and how it's oriented in the vehicle?

To all you late-nighters, might want to watch the meteor shower tonight. If it weren't for the dumb moon being so bright tonight it should be one of the most spectacular shows of the year or maybe of the last couple. Should be the best between about 12-5am.

I can't see the picture here at work, but I'll just say how to wire it. On each sub, wire one voice coil's + to the other's -. Then run the remaining + and - voice coil terminals to the terminal cups on the box. Do the same for the other sub. Then just take both positives from the outside terminal cups and wire it to the positive on the amp, and both negatives from the terminal cups to the negative on the amp.

Nice. Pics of the Lambo! Moved this to photography. But if things start going the way of audio we can move it back.

Maybe a couple sealed 12" IA Lethal Injections or Fi SSDs and a Sundown 1200d.

Need a budget

deff not new kinda old like 2000 mabey not that old but my friend just gave it to me ill check for the strays but it prob just a bad amp Well if he just gave it to you for free that should be an indicator right there. He probably knew it didn't work.

If that's your only amplifier, honestly I don't see a need in getting a larger alternator. That amp is only going to draw 20 amps.

Right. It's also much easier to get large amounts of port area with a slot port. For 100 sq. inches you can either make, say, a 20" x 5" slot port and fit it easily off to one side of your enclosure, or use something like eight 4" PVC ports or four 6" ports . It's also much cheaper to use slot ports instead of aeros, which cost about $15 apiece. Regular PVC, though, eh maybe a tie in price.

Check your connections, make sure there isn't a stray wire around the power, ground, or remote wires shorting something out. If those are ok it's probably a bad amp. Where did you get it? Is it new?

Caps are a waste and won't help your power situation at all. You say 1000 watts peak, what are the amplifier's model numbers and actual RMS figures? What is the alternator amperage output on the engine?

no, the 200 watts does not transfer to the amp. The RCA outputs on the deck are low level outputs. They only have an actual few tenths of a watt going through them. The speaker leads, however, are the high level outputs and have the 50 x 4 rating, which is a max rating. They're actually about 20 watts RMS each. But yes you can use the RCAs to send a signal to an external amplifier and also use the speaker leads to power speakers directly from the deck.

I'd go bigger the first time and just get the Icon. You don't want to get it installed and wish you had more or could use more of the amp's power.