Thumpper

the post didn't work out...only one pic out of 10 showed up anyways... dropped the enclosure from 4.25cf3 tuned at 30hz down to 4.0cf3 tuned at 28hz ...MUCH MUCH more musical and accurate

I'v seen something similar a while back.....maybe the remote turn on wire grounded out during the deck swap..??

thanks ​ unfortunately I spent most of my day stuck on the side of the highway between cities waiting for a tow truck.... the company truck decided to shread a belt ...lost power steering , brakes , alternator and water pump all at once

I can tell you what phone NOT to get.... I recently got a Samsung S6 Edge for both my wife and I at first I thought they were awesome until I started traveling or work , between cities the cell reception was almost non existant as well as a weak signal in any building I entered the video chat quality was really bad , my wife and I eventually gave up on even trying because of the crappy picture quality and being constantly kicked off while the phone searched for a network ..it was basically useless as a wifi hotspot too for both the laptop and xbox I also had to resend many texts that would go un delivered even with 3 or 4 network bars I had the Samsungs for almost 2 weeks and took them back , traded them in for iPhone 6's everything works flawless on these things....very happy

one of my favorite replies from you yet....LOL ​

same car , only difference mine is white might as well do an engine repair thread............................LOL

yes

Currently using supposedly some of the best shallow mounts for sealed boxes onthe market, the BM MKIV from Stereo Integrity. I like the way they sound and they dig pretty deep, but just not loud enough, which I knew would probably be the case before trying them out. I just wanted to see how they sounded. Now I want more :-) I never liked the performance of shallow mount building up to the rear deck and shoot the port back to the window would be my goal

that's a really small space to put any serious port area into 1.0cf3 tuned at 33hz and a 4" PVC port you would have 27.92" of length to deal with I would not tune any higher... the port velocity would be just over 15% ..there would be a little bit of port noise a slot port would work for that but to get the required port area it would probably go right up to the rear deck and wrap up onto it and shoot towards the rear window...if I had the car here I could design something you could do some research on some good shallow mounts .......or go sealed ...I personally stay away from both

i wish you could hear my front stage...a SINGLE pair of 6.5" components with 640w rms per channel it's crystal clear and stays ahead of my two 12" subs very nicely....staging is awsome my ground pounder had only two 6.5" mids and a tweeter in each door that kept up to four 15" Xcons easily (800w rms per door) listen to M5....stay away from SMD install photo's if you want it to sound good... a door stuffed full of assorted drivers gets loud.......but sounds like shit as far as staging and SQ

10" Icons..... 1.0cf3 per sub

sometimes bigger is not better.... personally I would go with a pair of ported 10" wedge the enclosures towards the center and give the subs a V formation so they do not pound into the seat and muffle out use PVC to port (save space) and up fire them on the outside of the enclosures the build will be a bit tricky with the angles but the sub will have room to move air and the ports will have no restriction sorry for the shitty drawing...took about 30 seconds with a dull pencil..LOL

that's just plain mean......... what did that sub do to you ???....LOL reminds me of the time I unloaded all four 10" Icons right out of the basket with that Crown Reactor... I almost cried....

going on 46 and my system still blurrs my vision ............wife threatens to Tattoo SSA or JBL on her ass to get my attention............. LOL

I live in Canada and I usually get mine about a month after ordering .....

when putting on a dust cap wear latex gloves......... all you have to do is touch the sanded surface of the dust cap with oily/sweaty skin and it will come loose before gluing wipe the cone surface with 99% Isopropyl as well as the dustcap before it is sanded ...they will never come loose I also make a handle out of masking tape and stick it to the center of the dustcap so I have something to hold on to when I drop it into place

Kind of a misleading statement... The drivers could be completely dis-coupled (as you state it) and loose zero net output if there are no phase differentials... It is simply about phase issues between drivers, that is rarely an issue if the box is somewhat symmetrical... In a properly build enclosure, there is never any output gained by common airspace, the only exception being minimum vent dimensions... not completely I made that statement after years of testing with a termlab , I'v even built removeable baffles so I could test the difference with the subs together and apart , the improvement is not always dramatic but I always get better results with the subs almost kissing each other in the same cavity the old school rule of thumb is to be with in a voice coil diameter of each other but I try and keep them about an inch apart Mutual Coupling of Loudspeakers Mutual coupling of two or more loudspeakers occurs then they are reproducing th same signal with their acoustic centers close together and pointing in about the same direction at wavelengths smaller than the distance between the two centers. The combined sound signal is propagating forward like one single waveform, the two or more smaller drivers behave like one larger one. The centers of two loudspeakers must be close enough together between 1/4 wavelength and 1/2 wavelength. The higher the wavelength the shorter the necessary distance between the two centers to build up mutual coupling. The actual effect is always direction depending because of cancellations off-axis. Actually (theoretically) the coupling exactly on-axis occurs always independent of the spacing. At smaller wavelengths cancellation occurs earlier off-axis. At longer wavelengths the angle off-axis without strong cancellations is larger. The mutual coupling should be seen a an effect of the average sound level on-axis and off-axis. The acoustic centers' distance and the wavelength of the signal actually determine the angle over which mutual coupling occurs. no mutual coupling with acoustic centers more than 1/2 wavelength separated mutual coupling with acoustic centers less than 1/2 wavelength separated With two loudspeakers next to each other at a distance of more than the wavelength of the reproduced frequency the average measured volume on-axis and off-axis adds up for +3dB (double power). With two loudspeakers close enough to get mutual coupling the volume adds up for +6dB. Because of the physical size of loudspeaker chassis mutual coupling always occurs only at frequencies below about 500 Hz.

not Magic.... I modeled them with multiple tunings and volumes.....they are not a really low digging sub after modeling that enclosure , with the port velocity I doubt there is port noise I am almost thinking there is some rattling going on in the hatch area that is keeping up with the output of the subs ..your problem might not be the enclosure I would be doing some sound deadening asap the shop should at least fix the carpet and the trim peice...I'm pretty shure if you asked they would add to the port and drop the tuning if you want to drop the tuning to 30hz add 3.8 inches to the port length

there is not much more that can be done with out physically listening to it I have built enclosures for Exterra's and had no issues with cancellation or distortion off the hatch I would take it up with the shop you got it from and make them listen to it and see if they will deal with it

that new pic shows a double baffle with a top trim peice , that changes it a bit inner volume is now 7.998cf3 , take off sub displacement .34 and port displacement .486 that leaves you with 7.172cf3 take off slightly more for the window brace and peices glued to the walls your tuning is 33hz and the port velocity isn't really that bad , here are a couple screenshots I put it thru 3 different programs ..the velocity was slightly different but we will go with the new Termpak I do not like the way the subs are seperated by that double window bracing and port ,that's just stopping the subs from efficiently cupping the interior volume

crank it up to where is sounds shitty and have a listen to the port.....

oh my............... from what I can tell the subs are split apart by a double screen door brace and the port ( say good bye to acoustic coupling ) ...you just lost up to 3db right off the bat before you even turn the subs on the subs should have been mounted with in a voice coil diameter of each other with no restrictions between them so they could CUP the inner volume together with out fighting turbulance the entrance to the port has no 45* on the outer wall and there is verticle and horizontal bracing at the port opening and it is kind of boxed in with the high port velocity and the way they have constructed the interior the port noise must be just awfull