calvin

i am glad that u mentioned that cause that was part of my next question. with these speakers what would be a good tweeter to run with. i am using a zx650.4 kicker. also i have no idea how a crossover works so i dont know which one to buy. what specs do i need to know to have a functioning set? i want to go with titanium tweeters and i havent found a spot in the car where i want to mount them yet. depending if i use a crossover or nor will depend if i mount them at the dash or in the door next to the speaker.

i have some dayton rs180's ( 7 in.) that i recently purchased. my car takes 6x8's up front and 6x9's in the rear. other then using a piece of wood to mount the speakers what other method could i use that will give me some clearance and also allow me to install the speakers so that they do not come in direct contact with the door. i have heard of adapters but i do not know if they will help me in my case. these are the speakers specs: Specifications: *Power handling: 60 watts RMS/90 watts max *VCdia: 1.5" *Le: .90 mH *Znom: 8 ohms *Re: 6.4 ohms *Frequency range: 40-2,200 Hz *Fs: 38 Hz *SPL: 87.6 dB 2.83V/1m *Vas: .88 cu. ft. *Qms: 2.00 *Qes: .47 *Qts: .38 *Xmax: 6 mm *Dimensions: A: 7-1/8", B: 5-3/4", C: 3-5/8". and since i couldn't find my exact speaker specs online i found a speaker identical: Speaker Size : 5" x 7" / 6" x 8" Design : 2-way Sensitivity : 90 dB Frequency Response : 45Hz - 20kHz Peak Power Handling : 70 watts RMS Power Handling : 35 watts Impedance : 4 ohms Curvilinear Injection-Molded Polypropylene (CIMP) woofer cone High-Temp Polyimide Film Voice Coil Former Optimized Polyfoam Ribbed Surround Radius 1/2" PEN semi-dome tweeter Neodymium tweeter magnet New Enhanced BAM (Basket and Motor) Assembly High-Power Tinsel Lead Wires Ferro-fluid cooled tweeter voice coil Top Mount Depth : 2-5/16" Bottom-mount depth : 2-11/16" Cutout Dimensions : 5" x 7-1/8" i really dont want to build pods on my front doors but i am open to all suggestions. and just fyi, i havent figured out yet where i want to put the speakers in the rear. whether it be the factory location (rear deck) or in the doors.

and yes the cvx's i already have and i want to put them into my 93 lincoln. the 04 is gonna be the one i put upgraded equipment in.

that is what i said but the dude from kicker told me 2 use 4 separate chambers.

ok. thanks. -Mike

i am trying to build a box for 4 of my kicker cvx 15's. i called kicker and they recommending using separate 3.5 cub. ft chambers tuned to 38 hz. since this is gonna be my first box build is there an easier less way to build the box without having 4 separate chambers? maybe 2 subs per port or all 4 with one port. it is going inside the car. maybe even a wall design. my available space is 32x56x36.

ok. just a slight correction. havent bought anything yet. so are you saying that i can make a 4th order vented box and sound the same as having the pr's? and all that u said i am a newbie at all of this. so i understood none of it. i am looking for the right setup for the sound i want and it seems like i need more cone area opposed to a box or pr's. so when he told me they acted as 3rd and 4th woofers that was what i wanted to hear. i dunno. all of this and i dont feel like i am getting anywhere. i will be patient though. still looking at the hcca's and the btl. i will make a decision in a couple of weeks.

but i thought more cone area was what moved more air and gives u more movement inside the car. so if it improves cone area it would create more impact inside the car right? i dont mean to keep bothering you but when someone who is supposed to be the creator of a line tells me one thing and i am then told he was wrong it just confuses me more.

so what should i be tuning to 38hz? does it matter? 2 15's 2 18's or whatever? or r we still talking about pr's. cause i thought that wasnt what u were recommending. or 2 15 tc sounds.

sd? and a member made a comment but didnt elaborate. what route would i need to go to get more impact?

the reason i asked was because i decided to go with 2 15 axis with passive radiators. when i spoke to thilo at tc sounds he told me that adding pr would give me more bass and act as a 3rd and 4th woofer. so if that is true how will this not help me?

what are passive radiators used for? and which the way to go?

does anyone know about audiopulse/ tcsounds subs? are they any good?

is there anything bad about using passive radiators? for the sound i am trying to get i think i either need to have a wall or open space for my subs (no trunk). i am not so much concerned with spl or sq i want my car to have a lot of impact and with the limited space that i have 4 15's wouldnt fit into my trunk with adequate airspace.

what is a good headunit to run if i plan on using it as my crossover and 2 15's or 2 18's. probably orion hcca's or btl's. and a sundown audio 3000saz.

and if u were to do a hairtrick what are the factors (other then air) for the smart mouths to do them? power, box, subs?

is it possible to do hairtricks from the trunk without the backseat going down? i have leather seats btw

damn dude.... u right as chit. didnt factor that in

actually running power wire as speaker wire is slightly cheaper. 10 ga. speaker wire is more expensive then 10 ga. power wire i am tryna cut cost on stuff like that.

i am not planning on running 4 tweeters. only 2. i am planing on running a driver in eeach door and tweetters up front. what i was asking was about compatibility. for example to run subs at their full potential u wanna have the right impedence. same for the speakers. are crossovers adjustable or do they all work no matter what type of driver or tweeter u have? its just that i see so many and i have no idea how any of them work. and u can buy headunits with crossovers built in correct? would this be easier? i dont have any limitations on pricing i just wanna make the easiest setup and one that will look thew cleanest. dont wanna be running extra wires if i can buy a headunit or a crossover that will prevent me from having to run all my lines to a amp.

so there are no requirements with the crossover i chose to buy? what qualities make a crossover good?

ok so i looked around and found some speakers i like. they are Hi Vi D6.8 and SEAS 29TAFW. i plan on running 4 of the hi vi and 2 seas' up front. what type of crossover would i need to make this compatible?

yeah i am looking now at the website a member suggested to me. silk tweeters would be my preference. i cant handle that ear piercing sound. to much for me. but i am looking to have a complete setup. i think that i am gonna go with 6.5 or 7's in the front and rear along with tweeters. is there any difference 5.25, 5.5, 6.5 or 7's other then size? all this is information i s extremely interesting. so much to be learned and so long have i thought in an ignorant way with car audio. 5x7's lol. i thought them things were the chit. guess not. after this post when i am ready to buy this stuff i will be bombarding this forum with hundreds of questions. so thats it for now. [

nothing in the rear? wtf? it is a lincoln town car. so all the speakers go in the front of the car? never heard of that. what is diy? sorry i am sorry retarded to the audiophile lingo. what setup would you recommend for the price range i have. also i am coming from some polk audio 6x9's and 5x7's. i thought it sounded good but i guess i have no idea.

i think i have seen people on the internet use power wire in place of speaker wire. is that possible or is that y they sell "speaker wire"