SpeakerBoy

I'm looking for plenty of volume 25-60hz but the ability to be nice and flat when I turn the bass down to match the towers

Make sure the spikes can handle the weight. Had problems with the Dayton ones on my HT boxWould two per corner make a difference or should I look at more expensive spikes?

Thank you =]

Rebuilding for my home music room, plans for the box are 7.5@26hz with 120sq in of port, 3/4" mdf, double/triple baffle (haven't decided) 1.5 all around, sub forward port forward, on spikes. Woofer is a FI BTL 18. I like Decaf and DJSNT, chopped and screwed, etc. Anything you'd advise me to change before I go and pick up wood? On 500rms for now, intend to pick up an EP2000 down the road.

That is correct, i have crossover points with no overlap. I was not aware that there would still be cancellation if the same speakers at the same size were playing the same frequency. You want to underlap your crossover points. They aren't a digital cutoff, it's 6/12/18/24 db an octave. For example, every octave above the point is half as loud. But still being played.

You're arguing with one of the most knowledgeable people on the board. I'd give what he says a try before trying to dispute it. The board is here to learn from, remember

I was thinking take one of my tens and put it in a sealed box, all over the room while I'm at listening position to see how well it would do mounted in various locations.

I have a BTL on 500rms I'm planning on swapping out for a pair of Dayton 18's later on, so being able to utilize every part of my system is something I'm after. Bookmarked that page though, I'm super hungover right now but I like how those kits look.

Been eyeing those for a year or so now, how are they output wise?

I'm okay with this. Not opposed to going down a different path if it means better results. Do you have any recommendations or brands to look out for used? My budget doesn't include shipping, and if the gains are significant, I don't mind spending slightly more, but three or four hundred is a lot to me right now. I just want it to be wisely spent.

How much does placement effect IB compared and to standard ported or sealed setup? My closet ceiling is a neat square that could easily accommodate up to three or four 18's (small room, not needing that much lol) but it's across the room from where my woofer is currently; been wondering how to even figure it out.

Big score for a first major build. Trial and error will teach you a lot, also, if you have access to a computer, learn to model enclosures. Flat wall with probably be louder, less complex, etc. What's your electrical look like?

If I'm looking for transparent, immersive soundstage, is that doable without breaking the bank? I promise, I only post with the intent to learn and improve lol. This 2.1 is my music setup, I have a smaller 5.1 logitech system for tv, movies and games, since I rarely use my speakers for anything but music.

Nothing appealing locally =[ Edit: I take that back. Well shit now I have some thinking to do. I'll listen to these for a few weeks and try to identify what exactly I'm missing then I'll come back to it. They sound good, but it's not invisible like I'm after.

I don't have a computer, not to mention, never modeled anything before. 99% of the time I'm on the Web I'm on my HTC. These won't be anything spectacular, but I'd like them to be as good as my current situation allows. If all else fails, ill just pair them with GRS 10's as well, and call it a day til I can build some from scratch. Just trying to make do for now. If you can show me how to achieve better SQ at a fairly high level (its only perhaps, 14x14 room) for <$300 I'm all ears.

I am updating all the drivers in my towers, my crossovers died so I went with what I could afford, some parts express 800hz/5000hz three way crossovers. I have a basic active crossover for the towers so they'll only need to reach down to 60-80hz at most, the BTL reaches high enough to meet them. Just replaced the dead five inch mids with sealed back GRS mids which sound far better than the price tag suggested. With that in mind, i'm planning on replacing the flimsy plastic coned 10" midbass drivers, and am not sure what to get. I was eyeing up a pair of selenium tens, as I want it to sound clean and clear, but I also would like to be able to get loud. http://www.parts-express.com/selenium-10pw3-slf-10-driver--264-332 Those are what look nice to me, but since I'm not sure what to look for specs wise, could I get a few suggestions? I'm looking for something that can get real rough and gritty for dubstep or metal, but still be smooth and level for easier musics. My cabinets are 2.25cu and I have plugs for them, and several different ports between 30hz and 80hz. My budget is sixty per driver or less, not including shipping. I have about 100rms per channel for the time being.

Double post.

Flat wall will maximize, if by maximize you're meaning ease of getting loud. Think; how will restricting cone movement and heaping power on, make it easier to get loud? More stress on the equipment, more money in electrical, lose lose.

Fi or SSA will both satisfy. Pretty much certain =] Grab whichever is more affordable, or aesthetically pleasing.

If you're set on something new, get something amazing. For real. If I didn't have the BTL, I'd be all over an iCon or set of dcons. For real for real, the quality of product is off by like, an order of magnitude.

This is strictly a comp car, no musicality since you're after a 166, correct?

I have nothing to say besides, Fuckkkkkkkkin awesome o.o

Don't you already have that JL 15? I usually play with a woofer until I reach it's limits before upgrading, it helps to stop me from piling up woofers and debt lol.

How's phasing work with woofers and port on opposite sides? Does the trunk just act like a port extension?

It's a driver that's certainly on my To Hear list, but I don't think I'd have one in my DD. I do like that it's small box friendly though.