SpeakerBoy

Where'd you get a prefab tuned to 20?

Lol, that's like asking if car B is faster than car A because redline is higher. Think of it that way. Tons of other factors play a part here.

Happy birfday yo

Trim the excess, or buy a reducer/distribution block.

Dudddddeeeeee

I have always liked pioneer decks, Can't say I've used Belva wiring, I used Knukonceptz OFC 1/0.

Not always.

I would rebuild first. What happens when you drop 1600 and there's no improvement?

BigJon did a 150.x out of the trunk in a towncar, hair tricks with seats up. How much room is there around your box, you might want to reposition them for more airflow. They could be being choked off.

I got an icon motor I could part with if your ever interestedOld or new? I'll keep that in mind =]

Vague post is vague Yeah one difference for sure would be the subs in the box. What do you mean different? Louder, cleaner, deeper?

Proper install will be what you want to focus on. Those 6x9's are not as great as you think, coupled with the fact that music is never performed from behind you. It'll muddy up the image. You don't need several drivers to achieve desired output. Just like one ten inch woofer can burp a 150, but an eighteen might not do the same, it's all about the install, and how it's configured. Deaden the doors, make a nice solid set of baffles, amp the front components, ditch the factory grille, and you'll never want those 6x9's back.

I've wanted an icon since I joined the forum. Can't wait to own an SSA woofer one day =]

What's it rated o.o

I would ditch rears entirely, like Jay-Cee suggested. They only complicate things. Are you asking about baffles for the front mids? Find how much clearance you have between the panel and the window (rolled down) then you can pick a set of mids, and once you figure out how much clearance they need, you can decide on how many rings you'll need to put behind them.

If you take the rear speakers out, the 6x9 cutouts will help with bass. Helped a lot in a Taurus I did an install in. At the very least, I'd run a pair of 6.5's back there in some mdf baffles. I've never enjoyed doing anything with 6x9's other than taking them out. With a woofer, any bass they would've produced is now drowned by the fifteen, and the fifteen is beating on the cones, which can end up damaging them anyway. Just remember, even if it's frustrating, takes a few extra bucks, and a little more time, doing it right the first time means it's one less thing to re-do and grow angry with later on down the road

What are you asking? "is this a good setup" is extremely subjective. For example, to me, I would answer no. I ran a BTL18 and alpine comp fronts, even went to far as to start learning time alignment and phasing. Every little thing can have a surprisingly large effect. A lot of factors come into play. A properly executed system will always outperform expensive parts just slapped together. What kind of sound are you looking for, what music do you listen to the most? How loud are you looking for; rattle your teeth or something that will blend well, sound clean and clear on all types of music? I'd start with zero gauge, simply because it helps later on down the road when you want to upgrade. Do you know how to do the big three? Even with a smaller system, steady voltage and charging is a big plus. Do you know your cars alternator output? How are the mids going to be mounted? Factory cutouts or mdf baffle? Are you planning on doing any sound deadening? Why do you feel you need rear speakers? Fronts only will sound much cleaner, and it's much easier to manage, cheaper, the list goes on. Deck power is hardly good for anything, and the stock amp will end up being a mess and a hassle from the sounds of what you're planning. Pick out a nice 2ch or a 4ch. It'll be worth it, I guarantee it. It also gives you nearly unlimited options for the future in terms of upgrading. Something like this, PPI 900.4: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38338_Precision-Power-PPI-P900.4.html gives you plenty of controls, plenty of power for a nice buff front stage. Good learning platform for the transition from passive to active as well. Hope this helps a little, and have fun with the build =)

x2

SQL is like asking for a darker flashlight.

About what I expected, I just had to ask; Thanks for humoring me lol. Only reason I'd ever imagine someone doing that would be if they cooked the drivers in their wall and wired up a pair of temp drivers like, 8's or 10's, as high as possible to survive the amp til recones got done, but then again, most of us here would probably just wait it out, or be smart on the knob.

Buy SQ oriented subs and go with a large build. All I can really suggest. Plenty of power, and plenty of room so you really seem to be after spl but staying musical while doing it.

I'm not asking for any practical purpose, or for any real world application. I've just NEVER seen this question asked, and after a bit of gin, I started to wonder, Are large amps, for example NS-1, IA80.1, AB1101.1, Stetsom 14k etc, you know, big ass amps, able to be run at 8ohm, 16ohm, and (never seen a speaker system run at this) 32ohm? I see no reason why you would considering the price to watt ratio, but could you safely?

You asked us something pretty damn subjective. It might sound good to someone else, but you may not like it, or vice versa. You need to have a way of expressing what it is you consider quality sound. If you can't do that, go ahead and buy it anyway, you won't know the difference.

I vote eighteenssssss =] No reasoning either way, I just love lookin at those monsters lol

Happy birthday =] thanks for helping some of us not so audio inclined folk to step our game up