SpeakerBoy

I understand this, but in an environment where cabin gain plays a huge role in low frequency extension, is it necessary to reach lower than 30 hz for most music? I mean, not to everyone. Some people are content with prefab porteds, and that kind of tuning, even a little lower would probably be great for a pro driver. But my flavor is slowed, so I appreciate the <40hz violence

He said only seven thousand lol

People are speechless when you have a much louder, better sounding system with one quarter, or less, power than them. It's a wonderful feeling

Why was it needed for a particular design not for others? Does a wedge design induce more rock because of the angle?

Seems to me, it's because the lower you go, the more displacement is needed. Pro woofers are far more efficient, but even high displacement pro drivers don't have enough throw to keep up down low (ie, LMS 5150 vs the Ultra, one is much stronger 40+ and one is much stronger <40). My uneducated $0.02

I have a ten band EQ.The bottom three are 31 63 125 No,I was exaggerating by calling it a midbass. It's frustrating to have mad output on all the notes I hear the least in my music That is only 2 bands where you need them to figure things out. Obviously yours follow 1/3 octaves which simulate your hearing, but isn't narrow band enough. Wouldn't 31, 63, 125 be single octave steps? I have a ten band EQ.The bottom three are 31 63 125 No,I was exaggerating by calling it a midbass. It's frustrating to have mad output on all the notes I hear the least in my music That is only 2 bands where you need them to figure things out. Obviously yours follow 1/3 octaves which simulate your hearing, but isn't narrow band enough. Wouldn't 31, 63, 125 be single octave steps? Absolutely. His doesn't follow 1/3 and even that wouldn't be enough. Haven't seen anything in the car audio world but 1, 1/2, and 1/3 octave EQ's. Do they even exist?Maybe a 30 band? nah that's a 1/3....

Nevermind then lol.

I take criticism badly sometimes, i'm almost intimidated by people who have been doing what I love doing for longer than I've been alive. I just feel like I ask the wrong quesitons and don't know what I'm ACTUALLY after beside what I picture in my head. I always aim to tune lower than higher becaue I've watched a lot of people murder subs playing shit off MY playlist, in my hometown everyone calls me up to do their shit and then when they skimp on equipment and design they pay dearly lol. They named me speakerboy, it's not a self appointed name lol. Part of what drives me to learn, so I earn the name. M5 gives great advice, I guess I just harbor mild resentment from all the shit I got when I was fourteen and posted my backpack here, what I felt was something to be proud of. audio therapy session over. I stuffed my box today, four pounds of poly in the 5@35hz, but I'm not sure if it's had an effect, my parents have been in and out all day, and don't exactly enjoy my music. On low power it's doing better, it digs a little deeper. Is proper polyfill fire resistant? I get worried with that much fabric shit next to what's potentially a heating element in a bad circumstance. I also wonder how it works in a ported box, wouldn't it hinder air flow? I can't build the box til it's warmer, the wood shop we'd use is full of my friends parents lawn furniture, shit.

>.>

In my house, I can, but I don't have one sturdy enough to use in the car. Do you mean as a source or just for testing purposes?

I have a ten band EQ.The bottom three are 31 63 125 No,I was exaggerating by calling it a midbass. It's frustrating to have mad output on all the notes I hear the least in my music That is only 2 bands where you need them to figure things out. Obviously yours follow 1/3 octaves which simulate your hearing, but isn't narrow band enough.Would you consider it smarter to wait til after the new box to go out and buy an EQ? The rest of the eq is sufficient for my highs and mids for now, so I'd hate to get it and not need it. On my iPhone I have a seven or ten band that lets you choose where the bands are. As low as twenty hz. I set a +12db at 20 and +6 @ 30 and drop 60-120 by 10db. My GS3 is my daily phone though.

Saving a few bucks, think of it that way

I have a ten band EQ. The bottom three are 31 63 125 No,I was exaggerating by calling it a midbass. It's frustrating to have mad output on all the notes I hear the least in my music

I'm hoping the new box will reduce the need to eq so harshly. The first port we build will be the 26hz port. Box at 7.5 after disp.

I don't think it's literally that deficiencient, but yes. See why I'm so irritated!? Lol. I have to max the eq in opposite directions to flatten the higher bass peaks. I don't want a 3kw midbass!

That isn't at all what you asked for before. NOT even close.If you want to play with the box you have, the first step is to EQ down the rest. Figure out how much you've then eq'd down to balance and we can work off that. On my EQ app, I drop the preamp all the way, boost 31hz back to zero and cut 63hz all the way. That's what I need to get closer to what I'm after. They are +/-10db bands. So a roughly 20db separation to even it out

I felt I had to ask, I don't think I'll be in a position to afford an ultra for several more years after this. Just a question of opportunity.

I understand lower is not as loud to the ear, so I'm looking to smooth that in particular out. My current setup will dig down, but as it gets lower the output decreases dramatically. Im looking for STRONG <40HZ that's where it began to suffer. It was plenty loud, just not very balanced as in the high notes had all the loudness but the low notes sounded great (just weak) . My current box is just a temp, it's 5cubes@35hz with 104sqin of port and it's nonsense. So my idea was lower tune, more port, larger box.

Then sell the BTO and your big amp and go smaller. Will allow you a budget to make the front stage work. Hardly need a sub even for SQ. Sure it's important, but hardly comparatively.Power is the last thing you should worry about. Mounting locations and install first. The output is where i'd like it, downgrading would cost me that.It's a better sound i'm after. I am going to at least try several new boxes for the BTL before I make any decision, or i'll never forgive myself for passing up a $250 loaded BTL 18 You are looking for, I fogret the proper term, forgive me, but smoothness. From your sub stage to your front stage. In order to do so, you need to get rid of your dip and values within your sub's output. You will only be able to do this by RTA/software, and with several enclousures. My advice, build large. For the BTL, this would be 8cubes NET, with plenty of port, 120-150 cuin. And tune according coherdinately with your vehicle's Transfer Function. When you have an eq on your sub, you want to bring down the peak with that your port will offer, usally around tuning, so that it blends in well with the rest of the frequency response of your sub's output. Obviously, this will bring down max SPL, but it will definately give you a better sound or the "sq" you are looking for. I hope this helps. Highly recommend to not use 120-150" of port, Ive used the BTL in both 120 and 150 and It does not like a lot of port area.It likes about 120, but it needs the right amount of box space, too much and it will bottom out and too little and it will overheat. About 7.5 is right.I've been recommended 7.5 cubes by several different people lol. Seems to be the sweet spot.

I'm getting frustrated because I'm trying to ask questions an I'm getting met with questions about my questions and I'm just trying to keep this simple. Asking questions here is almost as hard as building box after box after box hoping for good luck. I'm after even flat response from 25-60hz. I'll have 3k on tap so it will have the output I need. I just want to know how to achieve FLAT I'm not sure what is confusing about this. My first question was whether it was worth switching out for an Ultra and the responses were enough to have me content with the btl. So now it's just about achieving flat response. I'm not sure I'm ready to deal with a front stage, because as soon as I bring that up, my woofer choice comes into question. So that's not even in the picture for now. I want to finish the subwoofer and then worry about the rest along with whatever processing is needed.

I want the perceived output to remain constant between 25-60hz. Literally what I'm after. Literally. In a literal sense M5, as in, that's literally what I'm after. Literally. Is that confusing? I said I'm after clean accurate sound with flat response. Even typed flat in all caps. Literally. Thanks Sencheezy, I'll try a few boxes and mess with port area. Other than that, I'll figure this out myself. My reputation here gets me nothing but shit. Please lock this thread. M5, what in the fuck is the first question of this thread. Why would you pull an idea like sell my sub and downgrade out of my question. What? The? Fuck? Are you even trying to help me or just fuck me around and make me look stupid? I'm trying to learn and you don't seem to get that I'm still forming my knowledge of audio. I'll ask stupid shit unless I already know why it's wrong. Make mistakes to progress, and learn. I asked if I'd benefit from a switch to the ultra. I got a different answer than I expected to get, but I think Lithium helped me out quite a bit there. You on the other hand referenced neither woofer and suggested I sell it for something smaller. Pull your head out of your ass, I have different audio goals than you. I'm after loud as fuck that doesn't sound dirty muddy or distorted.

For sure? Not a solid answerHe is saying it could be either one. Depending on how you wire themYup yup

Four or one.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/pts/4286673028.html I'm looking at amps that are being sold locally, and was wondering if this is a true 2k rms. If so, it's a steal for 160

Then sell the BTO and your big amp and go smaller. Will allow you a budget to make the front stage work. Hardly need a sub even for SQ. Sure it's important, but hardly comparatively.Power is the last thing you should worry about. Mounting locations and install first. The output is where i'd like it, downgrading would cost me that. It's a better sound i'm after. I am going to at least try several new boxes for the BTL before I make any decision, or i'll never forgive myself for passing up a $250 loaded BTL 18 You are looking for, I fogret the proper term, forgive me, but smoothness. From your sub stage to your front stage. In order to do so, you need to get rid of your dip and values within your sub's output. You will only be able to do this by RTA/software, and with several enclousures. My advice, build large. For the BTL, this would be 8cubes NET, with plenty of port, 120-150 cuin. And tune according coherdinately with your vehicle's Transfer Function. When you have an eq on your sub, you want to bring down the peak with that your port will offer, usally around tuning, so that it blends in well with the rest of the frequency response of your sub's output. Obviously, this will bring down max SPL, but it will definately give you a better sound or the "sq" you are looking for. I hope this helps. This sounds like it's what i'm searching to do. I feel that anything that will match or surpass the output it had on only 700rms in 5 cubes @ 35, is sufficient. So I have PLENTY of room to make adjustments when I have a proper amp, and a sufficient front stage setup. I am looking for FLAT response, as in, it is perceived to be the same volume throughout the spectrum, all the way down to it's lowest register, I believe the lowest note i've ever chased was maybe, 27hz in I Cook (decaf) - OJ da Juiceman. I'm looking for evenness, smoothness, yes. It feels weird to say i'm chasing SQ with a woofer like a BTL, but I am I think; I chose this woofer, because i'm after quality at high output levels.