SpeakerBoy

Yup yup. 18d2 fully loaded. Destined for a pair of minotaurs one day.

What didn't I say? Huh?

I'm not sure what my reaction to those last two posts are lol Thanks though,

My BTL is fully functional; however the cone is horribly dusty and dirty from the previous owner. Any ideas on how to clean it? Didn't wanna wipe it, as moisture seems like a dangerous thing to apply to a paper cone.

Yup all good here.

I changed it one last time, paralleled two satellites the one coil in series for ~5ohm/ch. It will get the job done lol. Can't wait to have the fucker back in the trunk on full power. Sounds fine for listening to rap while doing paperwork.Thanks for the quick answer

Problem is solved already man... I was just asking why the calculator told me speakers with a higher resistance were receiving more power. I don't need your judgements of Sq or practicality just an answer for my impedance question. I don't like the idea of five hundred dollar paperweight is all.

I just want a safe load for the amp. my speakers are only 2.5" so I hooked a coil of the BTL to each channel to add some bass. Far from ideal but better than a cellphone speaker.

I have a two channel amp and am just trying to help the sub see more power than the satellite speakers. Im using my btl as a room radio for a month or so and got a nice yamaha set to cover highs. Satellites are all 6 ohms and my btl is a d2

But why would the speakers with higher loads receive more power?

Rewired them all in series for a 14ohm friendly load. Thanks man

I am having a fucktard moment, and have a basic ass question. I have, on each channel, two 6 ohm speakers in series for 12 ohms, and then paralleled to a 2 ohm coil. What is the final impedance? I googled several calcs, and none had options for multiple impedances, save for one, but that one gave some answers that looked completely wrong, as in, the speakers with lower impedances receiving less power.... I'm just double checking that this temporary setup isn't wired to a reckless load, my amp doesn't like going below 4, and the last calc I tried gave me 1.7ohm final. It doesn't heat up, and doesn't cut out....But I'm not trying to learn the hard way.

I think it is okay. I wouldn't do it my self but I think it looks good with those particular woofers. I'm more a fan of stained boxes though.

Mine is an 18 but every person I ask says don't trade it for anythingggg lol

It will make bass, and probably plenty. What are you asking exactly? With specifics, we can give you a better, more accurate answer; oh and it keeps some of the dicks from posting on your thread

Then remove them at least 5x and put them back on. Your fears will be gone.As for your wirless comment, IMO wireless sucks donkey. It isn't about quality, or functionality but reliability. Run some wireless stuff in your home once and you will get excited enough to rip everything out and wire it. I have well over 3000' of cabling I've done to my house to make it a smart house and EVERYTHING wireless has been a fail. All you had to do was say wifi Point taken, yours too Lithium. What the hell does 3000' of wire even look like holy shit o.o

This is planning. I totaled my truck the second, and am buying the same model once insurance rolls through.

Did you really have to ask? I'm just asking, quit giving me shit come on.

-edit-

Ugh you're killing me with the valid points man. I'm not biased either way, once it's warm out, thirty minutes and i'm done so..... Is there a particular reason you'd advise against? I don't think it's happening now.... Just told me his mom moved a bunch of boxes for the sale, and that one is not in the garage anymore. A new one is only like $25 but that's like two sets of RCA's and some ties.

The power and ground will go under the truck this time, zipped to the frame, and fed back in in the trunk, to a block in the back. he's at work let me try to text him for the name of the transmitter. I mean, objectively it's not that big of a deal, but it makes taking things out easier, as well as minimizes the change of a smashed or damaged wire; when i'm not driving it, my friend borrows it to drive his scout troops (needs the 4x4 up at camp) and they are all still mid teens, not exactly my favorite to have in my vehicle lol, messing with all my shit. In my last blazer, the door trim pieces had some sharp clips in there that tore up a set of rca's that I had to replace, and just laid over the carpet, and took small strips of tape to hold it down along the weather seal.

My friend has them sitting in his garage doomed for a garage sale, so I can use it for free lol and why run wire when I don't have to? I mean, if it effects the sounds, i'll run the for sure, but it would just make me happy if I didn't need to tuck and hide so much.

Would I suffered a significant loss of quality, using wireless RCA's for my install? I'd mount a transmitter in the glovebox and a receiver in the trunk, so the only wires i'll have to run are a power and ground. Doing 4/0 for both by the way, as well as big 3 , thinking about going under the car this time, I didn't like where my power passed through the firewall; it was a pre-cut hole there and with passengers stepping up against it, it pulled it close to the motor and ate off some of the jacket, had to rip it out and loom it, and zip it to the side of the bay after that, because even with no slack, they worked it loose. I ask, because i'm going to do this for a backup camera, and it has audio as well as video ports.

How hot before it fails, doesn't even sound to my ears like it would help me design a box for it any day of the week, know what I'm saying? 95Honda, I'm agreeing with you lol

Still recovering from a bought of insomnia, clarify a little please?