SpeakerBoy

Now this sounds stupid as fuck because if you read it wrong it'll sound like a useless thing to ask, but hopefully you'll know what I mean. It seems to me that larger woofers, or well, more cone area makes the bass sound rougher around the edges at high volume. Not like clipping, but not a pure smooth note like at lower volumes. It goes away a little with the door open so I can only assume it's the pressurizations effect? I like it but I don't know what to call it. I only notice it with lots of cone and sealed up, and mostly in SUV's. Not really a question but just curious if it's 10 years of shit speakers or i'm right. I think I'm right, my friend has BTL's and those aren't shit

Just ordered a Knu 1/0 kit

yeah, without making the box too tall, it mean i'd just have to leave my back seats folded

I don't want to sound like an asshole, but you have close to 1500 post here and you don't know the answer to this question???? He just bought his first car lol. Every system that I've seen him do has been in a backpack.I understand and that's all cool that he got a whip, but having nearly 1500 post just on this forum and not knowing why its bad to play your system with the vehicle off is beyond me I guessMost of my posts are from the first year I was on the forum and fangirling about LMS Ultras and fantasy systems. Not reading and paying attention like I shoulda lol.

I'm used to dealing with small time amps; never really realized how much harder the big boys draw. Just picked up a marine at walmart; and cracked and am going to the pawn in the morning to throw a pair of fifteens in while I wait. Can't pass it up for the price, box, amp, subs for $200; they keep lowering the price because noone wants to carry them out of the store, it's a pair of mojos I believe. No clue on the amp, but going past the welding supply co on the way home tomorrow to get some wire. for a 1500D should I get a 200A fuse or a 250?

I had a last minute change of heart and decided to scoop a pair of Obsidian 18's. Can anyone give me a general idea of what size to build it? I am still going to get a BC2000 or a SAZ-1500 (The sundown is so much prettier .-. ) and I would like to tune it lowish for chopped and screwed music. Is 26hz too low to be realistic for music? I don't listen to hardly any rock or metal, mostly slowed rap so tightness and accuracy are hardly concerns of mine (my xplodes are going into the fire pit though) What would be an optimal size for a pair of 18's? Once I get a feel for how big it needs to be, i'm going to see what dimensions I can squeeze out to keep the box as low as possible while having it big enough. Subs up port back n stuff. Also, how far from the hatch should I have the box? I'ma bolt the sucker down after I finish it in bedliner. I'm buying my 1/0 tomorrow and my radio this weekend

I have a voltmeter

That's what I do when i'm playin' and testing a system. Play and run it for a little.

Why don't you play with the car off; more stress on the system? Or just personal preference?

How much battery would you guys recommend for park n play? I'll have about 2k to the lows, and would like to be able to go to a car show in my hometown and show all the highschoolers how it's done. I'm drooling over this, i've been waiting to do a build of my own for so long, and daydreaming conveniently leaves out all the requirements that need to be satisfied before the fun part. I'd like to be able to play the subs with the car off, not for ridiculously long, an hour would be the longest I could see happening; I was thinking instead of two marines from walmart, i'd do a D3100 or a D7500. I'm pretty sure the 7500 is bigger than i'll -ever- need but I mean, it's kinda sexy. Is there even any need to upgrade my alternator with a battery that large?

My friend is looking to sell me his UFO btl 18d2 for like $250 I'ma get a crescendo 2k a few months down the road. What kind of electrical would I need for 2,000rms? I'm getting a knu 1/0 kit next month, and a new hu next month as well. I was thinking a pair of marine batteries from Walmart; am I fine with the stock alt?

I picked up a 2004 blazer yesterday, I'll post a couple pictures when it's a little cleaner My first car

No results?

Are horns hard to set up to sound smooth? Hardest speakers to EQ you can put in your car. Hard is relative though. In reference to what? Is there a reason for the "not want"? Yeah, he feels it'll be too difficult. He's lazy. I've been trying to get him to send me a few pictures all morning to show you guys, but he's at some thing with his girlie.

Guys, if he doesn't want to run a set of wires past the wall, why would cutting up his doors seem easier?

Are horns hard to set up to sound smooth?

I think he asks for advice on his setup only because he knows he has no clue what sound quality is. That thought train started when I snapped on him for picking CVX's over X's. I think he seriously paid over a grand for four 15's. Like what the fuck.

///M5, am I correct in assuming that means, that it will make sound over the woofers, but not in what would be considered good sound; lots of treble punching through but not nearly enough midrange, something like that? Just for anyone thirsty for details, it's 6.5's. he has cutouts in the back, but doesn't want to deal with the nightmare of running wires past the wall; the fronts are already ran. I told him to just run it stereo, and series the front and rears but he doesn't like the idea. Dude is seriously a brick. Spends so much money and has no clue what he's doing, other than the construction itself.

Simple question; without breaking the bank on super high power mids and highs, would front speakers mounted in door (one pair only) be able to keep up with a 4- 15's wall? Wall is on 2k rms, Kicker CVX's. My friend doesn't want to build pods, and I can't tell him my opinion, being a state away. I think his budget for a pair is $400. I'm pretty sure he just doesn't want to put in the work building them lol.

M5 humor me and repost your advice. to everyone; if you don't have advice that fits the project, don't reply. This is what is is, because it's all i have to build for now. No idea what I'm doing, and apparently none of you have tried it either. You can't brush off the fact that it has been moving along excellently so far and say it's bullshit. You're ignoring the evidence that this isn't junk just to whine about how it's irrational or useless. Your tastes and mine are different, you have no right to dictate what constitutes sound quality to me. For grown men you act an awful lot like a high school clique full of snobby rich kids. if you can't think of a way to improve on the design, don't need the input. the goal of this is TO BE CUSTOMIZED. Not off the damn shelf, so quit telling me to buy a decent pair instead.

Stop reading into things what you want to read and instead open your mind a bit. I was helping you with YOUR goals, not mine. I think the idea is absolutely fucking stupid. I FULLY understand your position and don't agree with any of it. My reference to doing it right was to help you maximize YOUR goals which I know has nothing to do with SQ.You really need to open your mind a bit, it'll help a ton. How do you intend to help me with my goals on a project you consider stupid? Don't reply to my stuff if you only intend to shoot it down in every aspect, I don't need that kind of input; I'm trying to have fun here, not deal with salty audiophiles who consider anything less a waste.You only point out flaws and fail to suggest any alternatives within reason. I am shit ass poor, so if you can't find a solution within that parameter, keep it to yourself. To your comment in response to my headphones weather resistance, durability is first priority over sound quality. What use is a nice sounding set if it's ruined? And what use is a set of shitty sounding speakers that are weather proof? There are things in this world that can be custom built and perform better than off the shelf, but this instance is not one of them--that is why people are not offering help to your irrational project. What makes you so sure they inherently sound like shit?

Stop reading into things what you want to read and instead open your mind a bit. I was helping you with YOUR goals, not mine. I think the idea is absolutely fucking stupid. I FULLY understand your position and don't agree with any of it. My reference to doing it right was to help you maximize YOUR goals which I know has nothing to do with SQ.You really need to open your mind a bit, it'll help a ton. How do you intend to help me with my goals on a project you consider stupid? Don't reply to my stuff if you only intend to shoot it down in every aspect, I don't need that kind of input; I'm trying to have fun here, not deal with salty audiophiles who consider anything less a waste. You only point out flaws and fail to suggest any alternatives within reason. I am shit ass poor, so if you can't find a solution within that parameter, keep it to yourself. To your comment in response to my headphones weather resistance, durability is first priority over sound quality. What use is a nice sounding set if it's ruined?

http://www.jdslabs.com/item.php?fetchitem=cMoyBB203 I was thinking one of these; it would let me keep the regular plug, in the event I'm short a battery, or the amp fails. I'm not going to buy it from there, somewhere in my bookmarks I have a site that sells them for something like half that.

I'm not so sure I agree. I've never had to vent the backs for any reason, and; while wearing them, there are no holes, ports, anything exposed. M5 I'm completely baffled as the why you are still acting as though I chase SQ in any form, I only want it to meet or surpass oem clarity. The bass is all i'm working at bumping up. So far, i've met that goal. I was dissatisfied with the bass from these shit Hesh's, and even though I put new drivers in them already, and sealed up the insides, and they are a great deal better, I feel that now I can push them to see what I can fit in these frames. I'll admit, it sounds goofy saying i'm trying to build SPL headphones, but it's not like i'm looking to meter a 150 at the earlobe or some shit. I want to be able to be satisfied with the range it can reliably reproduce, I like C&S music, and I slow a lot of songs if I can't find them that way. I can hear the notes now, but i'd like them to be a bit stronger, more pronounced, not just there, barely audible. If I can have them thump out a slowed version of I luv Your Girl or Ride Around town, I'd be satisfied. I'm after strong mid to upper 20hz range, and that's that. I've met the goal on the amp, but now i'm trying to do so with something that will fit in a pocket.