SpeakerBoy

I'm trying to get an idea of what class I'd have the most fun in, if it's trunk line I'll probably wall instead to be perfectly honest. I guess I could find a 49.9 class I could do til spring when I take the Neer to get clammed. What are the organizations that score you on music runs? I looked up a few rule sheets but it's all starting to blur together trying to decide where I'll fit in. I don't think stock anything would be for me, I'm gonna fuck my front doors up with my front stage planned lol

What is considered the windowline in a competition vehicle? My doors and my trunk windows have a different height. Also, do they have no wall classes with a height limit vs the window rule?

I'm curious as to what I could upgrade to with my current electrical system. I currently have zero issues with voltage at full tilt with all lights and a/c on blast, steady 14.0 with my AB PH-4000 and Lanzar Vibe 231 (ick, yes eww) I have two group 65's and a group 29 ran with zero, big three with 200a alt. Batts are under backseat, so pretty short runs in my mountaineer. I used less than 30ft of wire (direct runs both positive and negative). How can I estimate this myself for future reference?

Happy birfday mang =]

Don't buy a tool that doesn't simplify anything, pretty much summarizes Meades products. Like buying a hammer screwdriver combo why Its only a bitch to learn the proper math once. Then it's a priceless tool that's also applicable outside of audio

Don't buy a tool that doesn't simplify anything, pretty much summarizes Meades products. Like buying a hammer screwdriver combo why Its only a bitch to learn the proper math once. Then it's a priceless tool that's also applicable outside of audio

Double bacon cheesepost

Measure the dimensions of your battery location and buy the largest you can fit

The negative terminal isn't connected to the board anymore, I opened it up. About 2-3mm gap. Lead melted. The 30a internal fuse is intact though. Weird. Gonna solder it up and see whut it dew

Never had problems with the BRX line. Took plenty of abuse and kept on thumpin. I hear often that they do rated as well.

Yup yup, it can be a small pain to do, but much preferred to car fires ._.

No more issues on my end anymore. Thank you =]

New lights (overdue), new amp, new alt, first, more listening practice. Got it.

Is a frame ground with direct power runs even relevant? I only haven't tried because it means new terminals and I want to save for some nice anodized ones.

Update, three batteries, 200a alt, still get dimming with a total system power of <2k rms. Dimming is unaffected by AC, lights, etc. Steady voltage, drops to 13.2 at idle full tilt, 14.0 while driving. Ideas? Direct power and ground runs, amp is 12in from rear bank, 6ft from front, I can play for like three or four hours car off, so I feel like I have enough reserve... Baffled. Am I expecting too much out of a 1.5k amp and just running it too hard? Finally getting an ear for hard clip on the beetle, so I feel that can't be the sole issue, not to mention it's got a good protect on it, it locks up when I hit it too hard so idfk

I spend more time here than pornhub, I hope we can figue this out soon ._.

I was on college lab pc's, which was odd to me, they've never been unreliable before. On my phone it's fine... 0.0

I keep getting kicked every time the page refreshes, and i'll get a white screen when I click sign in; I have to erase /login from the url and try it five or six times to get back into the forum. Is this a me issue or a forum thing?

MiniDSP has been nothing but good news to my ears. I don't use rear speakers in my mountaineer, I find it sounds cleaner and allows you to position the sound field far easier. Choose quality drivers, nail crossovers and more than enough sound is possible for all passengers with a decent amp. I only have 50w x2 currently on some RF prime 6.5's and it's keeping up fairly well with a FI BTL 18 on 1500w. I hear the PPI 900.4 recommended often as a great powerful budget amp. At under 200, it's the next thing on my list to buy. Haven't heard any complaints; I want it because it's tiny and powerful with enough control to run active with no processing. Also, focus on nice solid baffles for your mids. Look into deadening at least your front doors, it'll help insanely.

I see

Is the 9:1 port length/width ratio a myth, like the sq in per cubic foot rule?

Light grey cone, side by side terminals I'm not sure what you mean by model. What year? It's a 15d2, 750rms garage sale trophy = It was thirty bucks No, I don't know how to model, I don't have a computer at home, I use my phone for most of my tasks.

We're gonna build a box with scrap mdf for a garage sale trophy, who can recommend a good enclosure size and port area for a 15" type R? I don't remember what my box for a pair was built to, it's been a while.

With a cost like that, yessir lol and Adrian, I know it won't sound different, but it looks cleeeean. Bedliner and a nice flare is good enough for me. On the topic of the frontstage, I got the components in and re aimed, while better xover points are helping, I think I just need tweeters that like a lower crossover, and a set that is both more efficient/can handle more powa. Overall though, not super impressed with the fosgate shizz though, sounds like strumming frayed c-word hairs. lmao i've never been censored before ^^

Nice!