nick_19

Us in the U.S. see multiculturalism as an asset (both financially and culturally) for the most part. What we do not see as an asset to our nation is radical factions presiding our country that want every one of us dead. I agree with this. Our country is not taking a stand for itself, and honestly I think it is ridiculous. All of these people out there screaming "Free Tibet!" and complaining about the U.S. doing nothing to help Tibet need to get a reality check. We went into a country, Iraq, and, despite that argument of motivations, it remains and evident fact that that country was transformed from a dictatorship to somewhat of a democracy... and the world hates us for it!!! And now you are telling us to do the same thing in China (which is a whole different story). People need to just wake up.

I'm really don't know how to go about planning a subwoofer box from scratch. I used to start with the calculator for plans on subwoofertools.com, but that website just went poof. Now I don't know what to do... My dimensions are 17 high x 17 deep x 37 wide... tuning needs to be 33htz... I will add a second baffle and bracing, but we'll just used those dimensions for simplicity... If there is anyone out there than can help me I'd really appreciate it. Thanks.

How long have you had this forum up on SSA thumpp?

I mean the car has less than 7,000 miles, and the message will show up at idle or even when driving at highway speed. I never play it w/ the car off. I really don't know. I guess I can just ignore it since my voltage and stuff is obviously adequate... Just kinda annoying.

So the other day I did the Big 3 in my car. Everything had always been fine before it, I just did it to prepare for my next system. After doing the Big 3, I noticed something weird. In my car, there is a little heads up display for the driver, and after bumpin for a while, it said "Batter Saver Active." Wtf is this? I mean I would guess that it senses low power from the batt, but two different voltage meters show 12.8 w/ car off, ~15.2 idle, and ~14.6-15.1 while bumping. My voltage never drops below 14.3 volts, and I was just wondering why it would say something about the batter saver? Btw, i just added new wires, I did not remove the old ones.

Just email [email protected] w/ your zip code and they'll tell you your nearest dealer...

UGH! I was just getting ready to buy a freaking Havoc too!!! Guess I'll to find another brand now.... How can we find out where the authorized dealers are? This BLOWS.

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www.bladeice.com

I've got a friend one. It is pretty nice and I'm pretty sure it puts out what it is rated out. His system sounds pretty nice with it. He has had no probs w/ it.

I've got the RF T10001bd. 1459 rms @ 1 ohm. PM (personal message) me if interested.

They are the SQ line. If I were you I'd look at the AA Havoc. A review on the forum had a drop in test of Havoc vs Q and they said that Havoc metered just a lil bit higher and the low end presence was felt much more.

I have apair of passive kicker xovers... 4.5 khz @ 12dB/octave... look & work like new. PM me if you want them.

Oh I know. I've already been scorned on for what I'm doing there... No offense but that is beyond the point. I've become pretty set on doing that. But am I correct that the current pull from just tweets will be substantially small?

Aight will do. Also, if I have 480 watts running purely to tweeters, that won't pull much current will it?

Yeah I will do the Big Three with 0 gauge wire. All wiring will be done with 1/0 for the sub amp and 4 gauge for the smaller amps. But you don't think that I will need a new alt? I always run my system with the car on.

OK.. I will have three amps. Fuse ratings of amps- 30, 40, 150... will my stock alt (125 amps), the big three, and a 18 farad cap be able to hold up? I got like an autocraft titanium battery too.. The cap is optional, since I know many of you believe caps don't work. I will be running 480 watts rms to 4 pairs of tweets 300 watts rms to speakers 1300 watts rms to the sub. I like to play my system all the way cranked for a long time... Will my electric be able to hold up to this, or am I going to need to buy a new alt?

Well it says To Be Announced on both the Chaos and Mayhem... The Mayhem will be a SPL oriented sub if I am correct.

http://www.bladeice.com/ascendant.php

Or a AA Havoc. Made by same guy.

How about the Havoc though? I am curious as to whether they will have woven leads as well...

RF P600.1bd is a good amp. I've got two (only running 1) and I've had no problems with it. Great amp for 600-700 watts, plus they are damn efficient. I even have an extra one laying around that I don't want. (hint hint) lol

I know... But why? Just wondering besides another "just because it's better/louder/etc." This is just outta curiosity.

Aight. You'll think I'm stupid but... Why choose the Havoc over the T2? I understand that the Havoc has more power handling and Xmax, But the T2 has a lower Qtx, higher Bl, and I know it can handle a lil over 1000. I'm pretty set on the Havoc cuz I know it will be able to handle more power, but just out of curiosity why choose the Havoc?

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