nick_19

Impedance of woofers? Edit: I'm assuming they are dual 4's. Just do this: connect the positive terminals of a sub together. Do the same for the negative. Then go to the box terminal. Do this for both subs. Then just connect the positive from each box terminal together and go to the amp. Connect the negative from each box terminal together and go to the amp. Done.

Because I'm indecisive. There I asked on 1 amp vs 2 amps basically; more of a general/universal standard. Here I am asking more about the BTL and it's capabilities. I don't want to leave the sub asking for more power if it can comfortably take it. I don't really know much about the daily capabilities of the BTL and was just wondering. I don't treat my subs like trash, but I do like to use them to their full potential. PS - sorry, I don't mean to sound rude and am not trying to double post. I really did mean for the 2 threads to pose different questions.

225 amp alt***** My bad.

You guys are awesome, thanks! If anyone is bored and wants to give more opinions, I would really appreciate them here as well: Thanks y'all! Have some happy holidays!

I don't have the sub yet. I'll just stick with one amp. Makes sense. Now I just need to pick my amp.

I'm going to be powering a BTL N2 15 soon enough and have never owned a BTL before. I'm not asking "how many wattz to make my sub thump," I'm more or less asking if, for daily applications in 4.5 cu ft tuned to 30 hz, the extra 1k watts will make a difference/if the BTL can handle sustained power for a long period of time. Also, I will have an Autocraft Gold batt with a 200 amp h/o alt and Big 3 in 1/0. So please just give me some opinions/what you would do. Thanks all!

Gonna power a BTL N2. Opinions? Powered by a 200 amp alt and just 1 battery.

Ohhhh ok gotcha. I just misread; my bad. Ok I guess I need to just suck it up and get to some measuring. Thanks!

I think you may have misunderstood what I was asking. I am worried about the red area in this picture: I just worry about clearance because of the angle. I am not very good at wording this type of thing.

I'm designing a new box and have a sort of kink in my design. I'm looking to do a baffle with a 30 degree angle in it. Now the issue with this that I do not know the clearance for the sub since it will be angled downwards. It is a 15" Havoc (standard basket), and I just wanted to know if anyone had any ideas about the clearance. I basically need to know how far above the bottom of the baffle the sub needs to be to clear the bottom piece. Thanks!

Haha point taken thanks for the opinions. I went ahead with Excessive because my alt needed to be custom built and Nathan was just a real great guy to talk to on the phone and seems to have a product to back up. Mechman's website is down and I'm fairly sure they don't carry an alt for my car in stock. The stator will need to be custom wound so the build time was 2 weeks but that's fine. I'll get it around New Year's hopefully, but knowing shipping this time of year, probably a little later. I'll post up with my experience when all is said and done.

Trunk rattle is probably the biggest issue for me as far as extraneous noise goes. This is probably true for quite a trunk-oriented bass setups out there. Anyways, I am trying to diagnose EXACTLY what is causing the noise. I have put padding in between the spoiler mounts and the trunk lid, so I am fairly certain it is not that spot. The license plate is padded and deadened, and the vibration continues even if it is removed. Now the back of the lid is hollow. could it be the panels rattling against each other? Would expanding foam in there solve this? The trunk is obviously padded against the weather stripping all the way around, so it seems unlikely that any of these spots are the cause of the noise. I just want to kill the noise without having to weigh the lid down with 20 lbs of deadener... Just skip to 1:40 to see what I'm talking about:

Hey all. I'm at a loss right now. I'm preparing for a build replacing my subwoofer. I will be using around 2500 watts of bass plus 250 watts of highs. I'll have one battery, but I rarely play the system with the car off. Anyways... Nathan (from Excessive Amperage) seems like a great guy and super nice, but I'll be paying $25 more for 20A less. The Power Bastards alt is 220A and the Excessive alt is 200A. Any recommendations? Comments/experience on build quality? Both come with an overdrive pully and a one year warranty. Thanks.

Yeah this was the issue that came to my head as well. No matter how many different types of seals and gaskets I could think of, I couldn't find one that was suitable for my application. I like the interchangeable baffle idea... Might do that. I just don't know. I might just have to plug up some volume, which will increase the volume with minimal effort... Hmmmm. Thanks for the ideas!

Howdy SSA. Haven't been on here in forever. OK so I am looking to create an interchangeable port system for my box. Here is the layout of the box: (Feel free to steal the design) Playing around with my little box designing sheet, I thought about making a system where I can remove an appx 7 inch section of the port wall and insert some custom made plugs to lower the volume of the box. This would be just to switch things around. Now does anyone have an idea of how i can create a moveable port wall? I thought about a slide-in design (a hole cut in the top of the box that would let me slide the wall down in like a dam wall) or maybe a system of rails. I'm just looking for some ideas. Please keep it on topic... Thanks guys! port wall = purple wall

[email protected] They do not post up prices online because prices from each dealer varies. If you need to find your nearest authorized AA dealer, just email [email protected] The Havocs will run you a little bit more than a Q most likely, but they are great subs. Each is great. Any other questions should be answered in the link provided. Good luck finding your dream sub!

"Fi Car Audio", the guy that just posted above, is actually the owner of Fi Car Audio, Scott. You can email Fi at [email protected], but purchasing is pretty straightforward on the website. Good luck with your order!

Link: The World of Fi Choose your product and options (Options explained here) Have fun and good luck!

Second Skin Third Degree (or 3rd Degree) etc. Or Second Skin Second Degree (or 2nd Degree).

I have 1.4 kW on stock batt and alt and I rest at 14.9 and drop to 14.3 during full tilt. I think a 200 amp alt and a battery or two should be absolutely fine.

The output is not the same because there is not as much power going to the subwoofer. The higher the resistance of the sub, the less power you will get out of your amplifier. It will also put less strain on your electrical system and you will not be abusing the amp. What size alternator do you have stock? Why don't you just put the SAZ2000 in there, wire it up to 4 ohms, and be RESPONSIBLE with the gains? You will get more power out that you have running right now, maybe more efficiently, and you will not have to worry as much about pushing the amplifier too hard (supposing that you do not turn it up to loud and kill your voltage).

Try this. Sub facing up, with the port firing towards the driver's side of the car at the back of the box. I have done testing, and you will be able to get the largest volume with this method (short of a wall ) and firing this way got the loudest in my car (TermLab) as opposed to firing the port in other directions. If you cannot visualize what I am saying, just click on the link to my vids in my signature. Good luck!

Oh I wasn't saying I wanted to know specs. I just wondered if any further developments have occurred.

bump...

Max rating = RMS x 2 (usually) Peak/max doesn't mean anything in the car audio world. If you are going to be pushing a sub over its RMS rating, you should be knowledgeable to that fact already. I'd just stick with RMS and match the subs and amps to that. Albeit, it is nice to have a little headroom (extra power) on the amplifier side of things to help avoid driving into clipping and/or distortion. Just be responsible with the gains.