NDMstang65

We're not going to sell our motors off..for you to build with the same parts that we're going to use.... That would kind of be counter productive to do what we do If you want a Q motor, buy a Q off of the site. Thanks! -Nick

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=9994 you can download it there Thanks -Nick

Considering SQ is 100% objective...neither of you will win.

no.

no

i may have missed something, but i would think playing tones and setting with a dmm would be more conservative if anything. how would that burn stuff up? If you think about the funky equation it is telling you that in order to get say 1000 watts at 2.5ohm, you need to have 50 volts, and 20 amps. To get the amp to put out the 50 volts that you are looking for with your dvom you have to crank your gain all the way and max out the head unit, even then you are still only at say for example 42 volts. Resulting in a 100% square wave, once the woofer load is put on the amp. JL should be shot for coming up with a method like that...making things waaaaaaay too complex. Rule of thumb, 3/4 or less, 1/2 on the gain if not less is best. Moral of the story the only point of having a gain is to match the input signal that your RCA's are giving the amp....nothing more, nothing less. If you abuse it your woofers will tell you (the smell). hey nick if i have access to an oscope but its not in a location where it can be moved or come close to the car would i be able to adjust the amps gain withought it being hooked up to the hu or would that defeate the purpose? Im thinking it would need to be hooked up but i could be wrong Hook everything up, back your gains down all the way. Turn your volume knob up to where you would listen to it at its loudest point...then adjust the gains up accordingly. General rule of thumb is half way with the gain, no more then 3/4 (which is if you have a low voltage deck). You will be able to hear the distortion once you get to the point where its clipping, go to that point and back the gain off a little bit at that volume setting. You should be fine... Just takes an ear for it . Thanks -Nick

It's fine for you to have it made...it's not copyrighted. If they won't believe you ill email you my cellphone number so they can call me when you go there. Thanks -Nick

i may have missed something, but i would think playing tones and setting with a dmm would be more conservative if anything. how would that burn stuff up? If you think about the funky equation it is telling you that in order to get say 1000 watts at 2.5ohm, you need to have 50 volts, and 20 amps. To get the amp to put out the 50 volts that you are looking for with your dvom you have to crank your gain all the way and max out the head unit, even then you are still only at say for example 42 volts. Resulting in a 100% square wave, once the woofer load is put on the amp. JL should be shot for coming up with a method like that...making things waaaaaaay too complex. Rule of thumb, 3/4 or less, 1/2 on the gain if not less is best. Moral of the story the only point of having a gain is to match the input signal that your RCA's are giving the amp....nothing more, nothing less. If you abuse it your woofers will tell you (the smell).

if you dont have access to an o-scope or any fancy equipment like scott said, try turning the gains down a little bit until the symptoms go away. it may not be as loud but you are saving both your sub and your amp from damage. if you have a digital multimeter (its only liek 20 bucks if you dont) lookie here: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=3704 follow that That's how you burn stuff up.... The only time you should use a DVOM is if you are gain matching multiple amps on multiple speakers. To the OP: General rule of thumb your gain should be no more then 3/4 of the way up, ideally half or less...all a gain is is a knob that matches the RCA line voltage of your head unit to the input side of the amplifier...

I haven't heard anything from you, odds are your email has gotten caught in the spam filters... Are you from Canada or outside of the lower 48 so you can't order off of the site? Thanks -Nick

Depending on what size you want, recones are in the $100 range, and baskets are in the 35 dollar range + shipping each.. Thanks -Nick

You definitely do not want to run that amp that low...it's supposed to be seeing close to a 4ohm load mono, not .5ohm... I honestly don't see how its still running to be honest with you. Rockford makes a tough amp, especially the T series...

I'd venture to say that the power supply is going out on you... You do know that is not the proper amp to be running a pair of those subs with right? 2-Channel Amp Specifications * Amplifier Type: 2-channel * RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 75W x 2 * THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: 0.08% * Bridged RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 300W x 1 * Speaker Level Inputs: no * Preamp Outputs: yes * Built-In Crossovers: HP/LP * Bass Boost: 0 - 18 dB * Frequency Response: 20-20,000 Hz * Signal to Noise Ratio: >80 dB * Fuse Rating: 100 amps Shipping: 20.5 lbs It's made to run at 4ohms mono, not .5ohm.

No real need for the 3rd slug, Carlos is running 2 slugs with a bunch of power and they're fine. What amps are you running?

I'm not too sure if your going to be able to have them by then or not...generally for US orders its 2 weeks to the doorstep, Canada i'm unsure of.. Scott will see this and get you taken care of later today As far as spl option goes, generally a 2 slug motor with no cooling and just a pole chamfer yields the most potent spl oriented woofer Coils depend on your amps mainly... Thanks -Nick

Just member poobah... Mi taint on yo fo head. boyeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

We ship to canada...shoot scott an email with what woofers you want and your poatal code. depending on your location and what series of woofer(s) you want would vary the additional charge of shipping. Thanks! -Nicks phone at his other job

Have you checked your spam folder to the email that it was ordered to? It isn't an email from us that contains the tracking number, it is an email from UPS Quantum view. Let me know Thanks -Nick

We don't do phone calls...sorry We've got a dual .7 flatwire coil that if memory serves me correctly will fit the gap in the XXX, but it is not going to act like a XXX was originally intended to act.... Otherwise the only option is a dual 1.8ohm coil. Thanks -Nick

I replied to your email. Thanks -Nick

Eh crap ill have to host it somewhere else when i figure it out and have time..its doing that to me now too

Have you checked your tracking number? You should have automatically been emailed one... Thanks

They are really weird about what parts they use in their motors, some of them we can do and some of them we can't. If it is the standard American 3" coil then yes, if it is the Chinese version and it's a really weird size pole piece and ID on the top plate, then no. Thanks

Not that critical man..and it's right on the website... BTL15 DUAL 1 | DUAL 2 Fs: 36.7 Hz | 36.1 Hz Re: 0.7 Ohms/coil | 1.5 Ohms/coil Qms: 5.62 | 5.71 Qes: .25 | .23 Qts: .24 | .23 Mms: 241g | 249g Cms: 0.78mm/N | 0.78mm/N Sd: 810cm^2 | 810cm^2 Vas: 71.7 l | 71.7 l Spl: 93.3dB 1W/1m | 93.4dB 1W/1m Bl: 17.5 N/A | 26.9 N/A Xmax: 16mm * | 16mm * Rms: 2000W * | 2000W * Sealed box: N/A cuft | N/A cuft Ported box: 3-5cuft | 3-5cuft Sub OD: 15.625

Probably aren't getting your emails... I've yet to get one from you... If its that important why not post the question here? Thanks! -Nick