NDMstang65

Think of it as 3 cylinders, vs 2 cylinders vs 1 cylinder.. You don't hop in a prius and hang with a 5.0 mustang...and you damn sure don't hop in a mustang and hang with a top fuel car

omgomgomgomgomg excurrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrsion. /redneck voice.

The Q is a hugely different beast then the original one was..you've got 5-6 soft spiders on a 1000 watt sub now. Not that I condone running any more power to it..but it is a totally different sub than the original Q. The N1 will be more focused towards people who want to save weight, and run less power, smaller longer coils etc. This is just to show that it is real..it does work..for those who are saying otherwise

N1 will be a SQ focused sub..light weight etc. 1000 RMS, less on the special coil(s)?

It can't possibly work

None of the magnets are charged...they manually inspect packages because they are so dense and they can not x-ray them. (We do not buy our motors pre built and charged in boxes like other do..we machine and magnetize our motors in house) If you ordered an SSD, as far as I know they are still stuck in customs. I am not 100% sure though. A BTL is a no brainer...none of them will ship out until the last week in this month or so.

I'd highly suggest going ported. Subs up, port back. Let it wang. Sealed...eh. If you want to you can, ported is so much better.

And the fact that 99% of the energy that you put into the coil in a 94.1db 1w/1m speaker is nothing but burned off as heat.. You only hear 1% of what you put into it

9pm

Sorry man.. Customs can hold things for a few days up to 3-4 weeks if they so want to.. We can't do anything without the magnets.

Right on!

Give me a little bit to work out the math. It might be tomorrow evening before I can work it out and change the dimensions for you. You don't have the sub yet.. Edit: how wide and deep can you make the box and still fit in your car? I need those dimensions to go from there..because the box is already 40 1/2" wide.. I don't think you are going to fit that in your trunk.

Yep Looks like tetris gone bad We'll show it when it is time...big thing right now is for N2s to hit the market and people see how kick ass they are. Btw SubSam - Read that other thread, have we crossed paths before?

Nah not close... SG is a N2 derivative that looks like tetris gone wrong 3 pucks of neo would drop the qts into the .05 range..

Hop in tonight!

Ahh..4ohm power. I don't like 2ohm power..but I can deal with it and have dealt with it. I don't mind a switching power supply...IF it is done properly..and well, you know as well as I do..switching shit at 120kHz is going to cause nothing but problems, but DAMN is it cheap. Have we crossed paths before?

Not a problem sir

My personal amp of choice is between the old zapco 9.0's, and the Crown amplifiers from JBL the bpx2200.1 was a FANTASTIC amp. I vow to my grave to never have anything to do with an amplifier until I do it myself..in house. If it happens..cool..if not, that's cool too. I see no point in jumping in a pool that 30 other people have already peed in and are swimming in. That's just stupid. 3 cubes is the bare minimum I would use one in myself..the smaller you make it the more the bottom end is going to be anemic.

Begin rant: :stands on soap box: You don't want to get me started on any amps from Korea/China I will rant about them for days. Stephen Mantz and I feel the same way about them...it's kind of scary of how similar our views are. They're cheap..and they work ok to a point. But there is so much stupidity behind how they work and what they are doing it is annoying that an "engineer" would come up with what they do/did. The build houses in China/Korea are all about cutting cost and parts because they make a billion of the same things a year. If you can save a dollar on every board, that is a billion dollars which adds up..I can understand that. But me, being me and how Scott and I stay true to what we do and how we do things...I, myself will never be a person to buy something and resell it and have no hand in it at all other then the UPS label, sorry. It is not my style. I am a control freak and I refuse to associate myself with anything that I do not truly do myself here, in the states. I'd feel like an ass buying amplifiers and marking them up 150% to turn profit on something where I had zero effort in..and truly do not know how every single component works and its function as a whole. Only for somebody else to "borrow" what "I" came up with and put it in a different case and call it their own and undercut me and sell them for 100% per unit margin. When I get involved in something, I know it inside..out..and backwards through the entire process. You have far less 'copies' or 'knockoffs' when you actually build everything yourself and machine parts in house and have the machinery to do what you need to do. /rant. 2.8 cubes is a wee small for the N2's. It would be ok for a burp if that is what you are trying to do...for musical applications it is going to be a tad peaky and anemic on the bottom end.

I'm not being a smartass.. I'm trying to help you out and save you some money? I would not have spent the time to explain why you should not do something..if you should not do it. Other people read these threads as well..they see you running it at .5ohm..and just like youtube video's you did it so i can to. Things are not that simple...just because john force can drive a funny car doesn't mean you or I can too..and I've been around drag racing my entire life and I know that I can't hop in it and set records. If you burn things up you simply can not say that I did not warn you...I do not want other users on this board to think that they can go do it. Because that is going to cause a bunch of recones...and I do not want that.

If you get a kicker amp you need an adjustable subsonic filter as well..

Yeah..they pay the price in the end..if they would just slow down for 2 minutes and read they would never have an issue! But they come at our head for a minute because we're at the end of the chain. The sub is the thing that makes the noise that they desire, so if it blows up then it is our warranty issue.. The only problem is warranty covers manufacturing defects, not ignorance or stupidity.

It is called not knowing any better, and simply being a lemming and doing exactly what the manufacturer that really makes them says. It's simply not understanding how an amplifier works..in conjunction with a speaker. When you start to drop an amp below 1ohm more heat is being built up because the power supply and output portion of things of the amplifier simply cannot handle the demand that the output stage is wanting to get. When you do not have a subsonic filter...or one that is set improperly...you then start to make this thing that you've just microwaved move... You are slamming the gates open/closed on the output transistors at 90+% duty cycle, which is absolutely asinine and they freak out. Take a can of coke, pop the top open and bend it back and forth a few millimeters...within it's mechanical limitations that tab will never break. Now if you start to bend it past its mechanical limitations is when you start to get into trouble. This is where the subsonic filter comes in and making sure that you are not playing full power below port tuning frequency of a sub. If you already have something that's hot from running it hard on one of the Korean amps and you start yanking the soft parts past their mechanical limitations more and more heat builds up... You get to the point where so much heat builds up that the spiders start smoldering...they won't catch on fire until you've clipped the signal to death, vaporized all of the flame retardant spray that the spiders are soaked in and then it smokes. (square wave form, dc voltage out of the amp because the power supply cannot handle what you are doing to it) It's not the sub, there is absolutely nothing wrong with running those leads like they are. What's going on is an issue of the big cheap Korean amplifiers in and of themselves...and total ill-regard to what a microwave and conductive material does. Hope this helps you understand...if you run a Crown A6000Gti you'll never have a problem...because it's an A/B amp....the other stuff that is cheap...don't run it below 1ohm or you are going to have nothing but problems because in order to get that big power cheaply and cut out on the parts that are going into the amplifier the switching frequency of the power supply must be ramped way up...in turn microwaving woofer parts. Yes, that is true, I think, that little which amp can work on on .5 ohm, daily. I think if you have a daily sub in daily(big) box, you have a very big box impedance rise, which mean that if you want more efficiency from amp ( without clipping, buy sub with dual 1 ohm wire and wire down to .5 ohm, because in real life you got 2ohm impedance or more, thats the point of this quote. I don't know for woofer box without impedance rise. So..after I explain why to not do something...you continue to say let's do it? The last thing on your mind in a daily driving install should be impedance rise...in a musical application it simply does not matter! SPL burping is another scenario. Unless you want to invest heavily in recones...I'm telling you do NOT do it.

No

It is called not knowing any better, and simply being a lemming and doing exactly what the manufacturer that really makes them says. It's simply not understanding how an amplifier works..in conjunction with a speaker. When you start to drop an amp below 1ohm more heat is being built up because the power supply and output portion of things of the amplifier simply cannot handle the demand that the output stage is wanting to get. When you do not have a subsonic filter...or one that is set improperly...you then start to make this thing that you've just microwaved move... You are slamming the gates open/closed on the output transistors at 90+% duty cycle, which is absolutely asinine and they freak out. Take a can of coke, pop the top open and bend it back and forth a few millimeters...within it's mechanical limitations that tab will never break. Now if you start to bend it past its mechanical limitations is when you start to get into trouble. This is where the subsonic filter comes in and making sure that you are not playing full power below port tuning frequency of a sub. If you already have something that's hot from running it hard on one of the Korean amps and you start yanking the soft parts past their mechanical limitations more and more heat builds up... You get to the point where so much heat builds up that the spiders start smoldering...they won't catch on fire until you've clipped the signal to death, vaporized all of the flame retardant spray that the spiders are soaked in and then it smokes. (square wave form, dc voltage out of the amp because the power supply cannot handle what you are doing to it) It's not the sub, there is absolutely nothing wrong with running those leads like they are. What's going on is an issue of the big cheap Korean amplifiers in and of themselves...and total ill-regard to what a microwave and conductive material does. Hope this helps you understand...if you run a Crown A6000Gti you'll never have a problem...because it's an A/B amp....the other stuff that is cheap...don't run it below 1ohm or you are going to have nothing but problems because in order to get that big power cheaply and cut out on the parts that are going into the amplifier the switching frequency of the power supply must be ramped way up...in turn microwaving woofer parts.