NDMstang65

BTL is superior in every way... We wouldn't take a step backwards in development...the MT's are simply an older design that was never meant for music..at all.

Don't throw that packaging material away..please keep it. You'll never be able to build a crate like that should something ever happen and you need it reconed. Hope you enjoy it

SSD's are 190mm, Q's and BL's are 220mm You'd probably be best off with SSD's personally.

It's the same story..we don't know when we will have them. The magnets are held in customs...they have them and there is nothing we can do about it. They can hold them for 1 day..they can hold them for 3 weeks..if not longer. US customs can do whatever they want to do..we're at the mercy of them. No point in updating every day saying they are still in customs..it makes more sense to say they have cleared and we will have them on X date but until our shipping agency calls us and says that..it's still the same story .

Keep the MBQ amp, get a pair of High Qts SSD's and call it a day...you don't need more power.

Eq should be set to flat. NO bass boosting or super bass EQ on the headunit. Subwoofer output should be 0 dB...if you want to turn the sub(s) down then turn the sub output down on the headunit. ..and unhook that damn bass knob, it's just going to get you into trouble.

Don't get an epicenter...you'll really fry speakers then. A subwoofer should only play from 20-80Hz. Realistically...that's a 600 watt sub at tops..just because of how short the coil has to be to work. No issue in getting a recone kit for it though. Are you wanting to send it in to have it done or are you wanting to do it yourself?

Um... I hate to tell you this. But you obviously unloaded them sometime..some how..some way...because you uh..locked the coils outside of the top plate...that means the former came out 10mm PAST the top of the top plate...because the pole piece is hyper extended outside of the top of the top plate...so you were WAY past linear limits... Speakers do NOT do that..unless you unload them in either a ported box that is way too big (yes) with woofers that aren't made for a ported box (again, problem number 2)

They are polar opposite subs... Look at the information on the website, RMS and technical data is gone over very clearly there.

click that

Where was your subsonic filter set? Gains? Volume knob? Any bass boosting features on the amp or headunit? People rn upwards of 4kw to a BTL and never have an issue..the only time there is a problem is due to somebody having something set up improperly.

If you do something stupid of course it is going to break. It's like asking the ford dealer if i drive my car into a bridge am i going to get a new one? ...speakers are stupid, they do what YOU tell them to do..so if you burn it up..then it is you burning it up, it is at no fault to the sub what so ever.

Measure the diameter of the magnets. If it is 7.5" its an '08, if its 8.66" its an '09.

I'm wanting to say this ones is like at 58lbs or so...so it should be able to be shipped to Europe without an issue.

Of course you are going to get to full excursion on tuning..with a IB woofer..in a 128 cubic feet ported box. We've told you countless times...we're not going to spend 100 thousand dollars on tooling stuff to sell you something for 3600 bucks. The XXX is a boat anchor...and I don't think you understand that it is a boat anchor...nobody else can do anything like that because they simply do not understand HOW to do it...much less have the resources and the machinery to do so. Isn't happening. It isn't that we can't do it..we can do anything. It's simply not wise to put that kind of money into something..for a crowd of..1.

Moving to general subwoofers...this doesn't belong here. To the OP, the diagram has been posted for what you need to do...the lines connect the coils together how they should be connected.

^ I see the professional maturity has not diminished. I really hope i get to meet you one day. 1:1 ratio w/ TC Sounds designed woofers and passive http://www.sunfire.com/productdetail.asp?id=8 cheers Being professional, and being honest is two completely different things. I'm just honest, don't believe in bending anybody over on products and ripping anybody off, give a man a fair shake and he will return the favor...and I don't believe in sugar coating anything to make it seem like something it isn't and in my professional opinion, due solely on track record and field observation, my comment is 100% accurate. The function of a high roll surround where it snaps and puckers works nothing short of horrible, and metallic cones snap. You yank the surround to the mechanical limitation and it tacos the cone like a fat chick in a lawn chair. I don't come to your court and tell you how to play ball, so stay out of mine...you come here with a target on your head. I'm not a bit scared to pull the trigger.

I spend most of my time in home theatre, relatively new to car audio, where the rule of thumb has always been at least double the cone area. Many guys on the home audio forums have as much as 3-4 PRs per active driver. But then again, for HT we're looking for flat responses down to 15hz.... You know what I'm trying to accomplish (ported SPL from a BL driver, but in a shallow as possible enclosure). I can dedicate about 2.5cf gross volume for the box, larger if absolutely necessary. Can you make me a pair of 15" PR's, and give me recommendations on which options to get with the 12" BL. I'll be running a USAmps 4000DE (1ohm, 1600wrms) I'd like to place the order ASAP (today if possible). thanks, Linh Not a problem doing that. Go ahead and order the sub off of the website how you want it. Immediately after ordering the sub shoot an email to [email protected] and [email protected] with your order number (It will be a I-1xxxx/00 number) stating that you were wanting the passive radiators. We'll do them for $85 a piece. Put your phone number and contact information in the email so we can get in touch with you to charge your credit card for the passive radiators as we do not have those coded in and available on the website. Thanks, Nick

If you did exactly that then you would never have burned it up .. When we receive the sub then we'll dissect it and tell you exactly what you did wrong. Clipping is simply over driving your signal on your RCA's. Your headunit puts out a voltage signal, it is a sine wave up until a point then it starts to get a square/notch wave form in it..your amplifier only makes this bigger. Where did you turn your volume on the headunit? How was the gain set up?

You don't need a cooler. You need to learn how to not clip your amplifier, and set your subsonic filter properly...and not burn everything up. The cooling technology in the BTL simply works better then anything else on the market..period. If you are burning tinsel leads and stuff up it is simply due to what I said above. Massive amounts of over excursion and severe clipping. 99% of the energy that you are putting into that sub is nothing but burned off and wasted heat. You ONLY hear 1% of what you are putting into it...which is why cooling technology is so important. BTW, you do NOT want the flatwound coil on the BTL. You want the High Xmax coil. Otherwise you are only going to have 19mm of excursion. Also..you ordered the wrong coil on the recone. You need a dual 2ohm coil, not a dual 1ohm. That amplifier is designed to do power into 1ohm..which is a dual 2ohm coil in parallel. Which I'm guessing..you probably wired the amp to .5ohm with the original coil because you saw videos on the internet and your friends told you that .5ohm is better and louder right? There is a sticker on the outside of the box that explains everything. BASS BOOST IS BAD, don't use it. Don't use any sort of "super ultra mega bass" Eq setting on your headunit. Your subwoofer portion of things should be set to zero, do NOT boost it. Do NOT wire anything under 1ohm...it is a quick way to burn stuff up.

Well...That takes into account that you are assuming by using the .707 caluation that your voltage is "this" ..but your amp may never reach that voltage which causes people to set their gains up wrong all the time...so that might not work so well when you put a load back on the amplifier for it to drive..I'll have to test that.. Turn your subsonic filter all the way down, put a tone CD on. Put a track where you 'think' tuning is and ease the volume up. If the speaker is moving a LOT then you are playing below tuning, bump up a track. When the speaker is moving the least amount that is where the port is doing all of the work and is where it is tuned to. Once you take note of this, click the cd player down 3 tracks. Then adjust your subsonic filter up (to the right) until the speaker stops freaking out. This is how you set it 2-4Hz below your port tuning frequency.

I will probably get a lot of flack because of this but i was able to pick up a MRP M2000 for $300 brand new. http://www.caraudioxperts.com/p14342/Alpine-MRP-M2000-V-Power-Amps/product_info.html you could get two of these and still be under $700. Let us know what you decide on. matt You're going to burn stuff up with that amp fyi. Those amps have issues..

So long as you don't get knob happy you'll be fine.

You're going to turn that PR inside out before you break the sub. The rule of thumb is double the cone area of what you originally have. Just a FYI. If you ask..we can probably make you some PR's that would work..and not fall apart

I have 3 12 setup built with aa havocs box tuned 30 hz customer want alittle more power and alittle louder so I'm going to change tuning to 38 and use the mayhem. Or.ni Nightshade.wihich will hold up more? Will both sound decent tuned low 30 or tuned high 38 or better? Don't tune to 38. No higher then 33 on anything you intend on playing music on...otherwise he's going to break stuff.