NDMstang65

A bent flange on a surround will not cause that type of failure. The cone assembly has to move 4 inches before it will yank the the spider assembly sideways (at this point is when you start to rock the coil IF the surround comes into play.(..which it does not in this case). A dog has 4 feet of chain before he hangs himself..he will never go to that 4 foot mark if somebody comes in his territory because he knows that his chain is 4 feet long and he will snap his neck at 4 feet. Same scenario..a BTL suspension assembly will never yank because a surround is crooked due to a bent basket that likely happened in shipping...as every single basket is spun and inspected before it is even put on a motor, let alone when everything is assembled in the motor assembly. Point is, it did not go out of the shipping department like that. It probably happened in shipping and if you don't say "Hey this happened in shipping" and a UPS file is not claimed...nothing can be done. It isn't our fault it was dropped. A clipping indicator an amplifier is absolutely worthless at best. The ONLY way you can know that you are not clipping is via an Oscilloscope. Not a little LED, and definitely not a DMM. If you look under the plastic spacers they are not solid, there are spaces underneath every one of them that are void. Those spacers also compress when the basket is torqued down to the same spec on every screw..keeping all of it linear. The coil assembly is then dropped on the basket with a gauge that keeps everything concentric and linear. The spider flange is not bent, therefore this would not cause that type of failure. The entire assembly is built off of that woofer. You could be as much as .020" off and never ever scrape a coil in the first place because it is all assembled off of that same platform. If there was a shaving of aluminum under one of the plastic spacers it would compress into the spacer itself or it would bend as that aluminum is very very soft and has no bearing at all on the geometry of the assembly and how it is dropped in...as it is all used on the exact same gauge material. If it was off center it would be caught in QC as all woofers are played through full excursion before they leave. The coil would clang and bang on the test bench and it would never leave, it would be rebuilt if the aluminum shaving was an issue that was causing everything to be off center...which..it wasn't. Bass boost is NOT recommended. What is recommended and required is a subsonic filter. The two are completely polar opposites of each other. Subsonic filter needs to be set 2-3 Hz below the tuning of the ported enclosure. Bass boost should not even be on the amp, nor should the head unit have anything on it either. It makes a bad situation even worse. If you drive a car off of a bridge...it lands at the bottom shatters in 400 pieces..and you send pictures into ford about the alleged bad shocks that were on it of the pieces that are left over from you driving the car off of the bridge do you think they are going to believe that the shocks were bad in the first place and give you a new car because you sent them a blurry picture of a shaving of aluminum washer that threw the whole car out of alignment resulting in you driving it off of the bridge? As said, send it in. If not a recone can be purchased.

The color of that coil isn't normal by any stretch and spiders simply do not crack within normal operating range....get it back to us and we'll look at it. But I doubt very seriously if it would be deemed a defect. If the surround flange was bent (most likely in shipping) then it would not seal in the box. However if the surround flange was bent it has absolutely no bearing on rocking the coil like that..the surround has very little play in the suspension design of the BTL and it definitely will not rock the coil unless you are moving 4" peak to peak which is where the surround locks up, then it would start to pull on the coil. You used bass boost which in and of itself is bad...the coil is black..and the suspension has been yanked so hard below tuning of the enclosure that it caused the spiders to pop like a potato chip... There never is CA glue on the plastic spacers...it does not go there. If there was a shaving odds are it probably came off of the coil once it was fried and the former started to blow apart. It's like running your car into a wall and taking it back to the ford dealership and saying that your cupholder is crooked and it caused the car to run into the wall. Regardless..send it in...

12" DUAL 4 Fs: 25.7 Hz Re: 3.9 Ohms/coil Qms: 4.01 Qes: .38 Qts: .35 Mms: 120g Cms: 3.2mm/N Sd: 480cm^2 Vas: 104.1 l Spl: 88.6dB 1W/1m Bl: 20.0 N/A Xmax: 16mm Rms: 300W Sealed box: .9-1.3 cuft Ported box: 1.6-2.2 cuft Sub OD: 12.500 Cut ID: 11.125 Mounting depth: 5.750 Displacement: 0.10cuft

X's will be back up tomorrow where pictures will be...it's just a 2" coil sub..nothing big, very affordable

Ladies/Gents... I talked Scott into doing a Black Friday sale!!! This Friday (midnight to midnight)! We are offering BL's with FREE cooling and flat wound coils!!!! (60 dollars worth of options per sub!) We also found a pallet of the old X series 12's as well in the midst of moving stuff around in one of the warehouses. We're pricing these at $65 each plus shipping until they are gone. They are only available in Dual 4's as they are already built. Parameters and everything will be back on the site tomorrow. 'Bomb' stickers are going to be $1 'Gear' stickers are going to be $2 Happy Thanksgiving!

Yes...not saying a date just yet though.

I'm surprised you guys don't offer overnight shipping and other methods. Sure we do...but do you understand how expensive overnight shipping is? For a 35 pound package from Las Vegas to say North Carolina is around 290 dollars... If you want it to get there fast we can definitely do it...if you are willing to pay for it

It's not cheap packaging. BL's are crated in with packaging foam and 7/16 plywood screwed together with long screws and 2x3's effectively wedging the sub into place so it does not move. It doesn't break...which is the whole point of it...we've spent a LOT of time in R&D in packaging... If you want to pay 20 more dollars per sub to have a shiny box (that is going to get torn up by UPS anyways) we can do that...but that somewhat goes outside of the whole point of getting a custom to you American made product and not paying an arm and 3 legs to get it...which is what Fi is about. We can do pretty...if you want to pay

I don't know what email I do and don't have at this point..we've been in the process of moving and things have been a bit insane and I haven't sat down on email for quite a few days. Gotta run them active...it's not hard to do and fairly affordable.. Look into units from audiocontrol or pickup an old unit from phoenix gold!

Refresh it tonight after midnight pacific time and you will see movement. Your order left today.

Not on here as much as I used to be..especially in the past month...and I generally don't go into old threads. It is best to email me and I'll get to you ASAP.. Regardless need to know if you are wanting to ship it in and what size recone you are wanting done as well. I believe you already emailed sales and they took care of you though? I could be wrong..

Right on the current students page...hahahaha nice.

That's awesome man...how do you have it tuned? I built some stuff for some of the frat houses in college...was fun stuff..but mine was always the loudest I threw a Q and a BTL 18 in a 15 cube box tuned to 15Hz in the old apartment that I lived in...it warped all of the floor boards and cracked the drywall on the walls and ceiling. Upstairs it had a weird resonance around 20 feet or so where the light bulbs were at in the ceiling and it would actually knock the filaments out of the light bulbs

Can't talk about that type of stuff due to ITAR restrictions... I work under my company AcousTek for the vast majority of that stuff. I'll work on that stuff in the next few weeks...but in all reality it is really self explanatory..better airflow from a solid chunk of steel to something that is very rounded off and what not.

Tons of stuff people simply do not see I do a lot of really custom 1-off items for industrial applications and the military... I'm sure more 'tamed down' versions of what I do will trickle down into the car audio things eventually...

Really do not recommend using prefab enclosures anyhow... Most are a long shot off of our recommended enclosure specs. SSD's or Q's would work best for you.

Why couldn't you? So long as you aren't clipping it you'll be fine.

Regardless of what you order...we machine the parts PER order...we do not keep 'stock' on anything..nor do we build speakers and put them on the shelf. No part is pulled in the machine shop until we have the order ticket in the machine shop...same goes for the build shop..and the shipping/packing department.. If you order on Sunday your build process does not start until the next business day (Today, Monday) Most of your motor was machined today and should be assembled tomorrow...it may even go out tomorrow at the 3:30 pickup. We're currently waiting on BTL magnets...everything else is on par for what is normal lead time *3-7 Business days* Thanks!

Nothing wrong at all with playing the amp at 2ohms... You can go ahead with it . Just don't get silly with the knobs.

Don't wire at .5ohm nominal *.35 ohm dcr* You are asking for trouble.

up

When it blows...that was its peak. We don't rate them on peak power..as that is just a marketing ploy...which is sort of like giving a 7 year old a can of gas and a pack of matches and telling them to not set anything on fire.

33Hz is high for a home install...you've got a lot more stuff going on in there then in a car as well. Room gains are different etc. If you plan on keeping it in there I would tune lower...

Probably because there aren't any Fi dealers... If you email us without a subject in your email it automatically goes to spam. As well as if you have an email consisting of something like ' imtoosexyforstifflersmomsboobs @ wow . com' Recones are easy to do yourself..just 3 glue joints and a little bit of solder.