Lee Carter

Factory locations don't always provide the best positioning of the speakers for the user. Plus these look 100x better than a factory door pod, don't ya' think? OP, how did you attach these to the door itself? They definately look better! I was wondering if it helped the sound. Thanks!

if you are happy with it, then I say it is fine. I have alway used poly fill in my sealed boxes.

Sucks about the sub man! Hope it is back in your hands quickly.

Right it just makes sure you can draw the amps when you need to.Is that at the amp or the battery? the xs d2400? Battery. toy2008 - Like I said - I am not recommending you run it at .5. I pay close attention to not overdriving my setup. My Sub situation is temporary too- plan to pick up a D2 driver for it down the road for a 1 ohm load. Looks like your electrical is going to be up to snuff. BTW- My electrical run at 13.7 once the engine/alt warms up to operating temp(14.3 at start up) and with my stock 80 amp Alt, it rarely drops below 13.0. Looking forward to getting my 175amp alt...should stay pretty steady then.

Can't go wrong with a 67-72 truck...best looking of them all IMO. The Biscayne was a sweet ride, too. Truck sounds great!

I would run a set of these, if my amp had the angled inputs... http://toolmakermetalworkz.com/viewitem.php?productid=9 But no- for the reason stated above- I don't like them....

I hear ya on the alt- Placed an order for a 175 amp unit for my lil Zuk...430 bucks...I don't even have that in my amps.LOL Luckily he let me put down a deposit, and pay it off with my next check.(before he sends it out of course) When you start playing with big power- get ready to spend some dollars. I have figured out that it is the little stuff that you don't really pay attention to, that nickel and dimes you to oblivion.

That is impossible to know, especially the specs of the new Dcon's have not been released. Tease alert! OP- Sounds like you are on the right track...give the sub room to breath- it may suprise you. I am running the 1500 that pmureika had, on a 18"xcon....the 1500 has pletty of power. You brought up stock electrical, and 80 amp fuse....Have you done the big 3? Assuming you are running 1/0 wiring? I ask because I had a cheap scoshe amp kit that was 6 gauge with an 80 amp fuse....and it ran the 1500 for my 4 hr drive home (though I had it backed down a bit, and at 2 ohms) and didn't blow a fuse.LOL Music doesn't pull near the juice as a turture tone....then you have impedence rise etc.... I am running 1/0 big 3, and power with 150 amp fuse now. I have the SK1500 to a .5 ohm(D1 in parallel) And have yet to even get the amp hot. I don't recommend this, But I only pound my system for short times, then return to 'normal' listening levels. Point of all this: don't worry too much about the fuse rating...and it you haven't done the big 3...do it.

Beautiful work Nigel....makes me wanna pull my box back out and get to smoothing.... BTW- i vote for silver with clearcoat!!

sketchup kicks butt.....~10.3* pitch

replied to your PM Sean

Wouldn't too hard to assemble. Here's the Cut List: 2- 23 7/8 x 21 (baffles) 2- 23.5 x 18b/13t (sides) 1- 28 3/4 x 22 1/2 (back) 1- 22.5 x 13 (top) 1- 22.5 x 24 (bottom) 2- 16 1/2 x 4 1/2 (inner port sides) 1- 16 1/2 x 13 (inner port front) 2- 24 x 4 1/2 (lower port sides) 1- 24 x 13 (lower port bottom)

sending the sketchup file to your company email.

man I was so tired last night- I screwed up the sketch up back....though the math was right....redone the whole theng....and still made the top 3/4 too deep....it is 13.75 deep on the top. you have 9 to 10" of available woofer depth- think I read the 12's are ~8" deep.

I was going to take the kids to see some "real" setups...but I may be working too. I'll find out this week. If we do come- it'll be drive up sat, stay overnight, hang out sunday for a couple hrs and head home.

according to winisd, you need 46.5" of port for 31, 40.5" for 33. I doubt you'll audibly notice the difference.

to your dimensions...~2.95Ft^3 after displacements....tuned to 33hz...31hz required too much port length- 11.5x4.5x40" of port as it is.

Eric- that sketch you sent me- the 25x22.5x13top / 18bottom...that is sitting on top the rails? ALSO- is the 18" at the bottom all I can use between the rails?

You know it Nigel. Thanks Eric!

got the roof panel doing the wave.LOL Good stuff.

haven't done anything to it the past few days- just pounding it every now and then....my 6yo's are pretty impressed.LOL I have my boys this week due to my ex wifes is in MI for a funeral, so been bussing them to and from school 45min one way- twice a day....no time to fool with it. BUT- I have been it talks with Singer to have a 175 amp alt built - 3 week build time. Also- my Incriminator Audio 6.5's are here, along with the Knu Konceptz Bassik RCA cables. Hoping to get the mids and tweets installed and working this weekend- but the weather looks pretty shoddy. I plan to run them active using the high pass xover in the radio, and low pass on the amp for the mids, and the high pass for the amp on the tweets. I am going to leave the rear speakers running off the deck. I post up some pics when I get it all in...

what he said. But I have a better sketch to go off of now, will try to have a prototype drawn up by tonight. I thought it would be cool to utilize the space between the rails- as it worked out to supply almost exactly the port area needed.

I was thinking along those lines- thanks.

I was thinking he would've been in here too...

I was in a hurry when I made the last post...to be clear, that is to the dimensions 22wx19hx17d with the port being 13wx5.25h(for a net of 11.5x4.5, 52ci of port, ~17ci per ft^3) The math I didn't work out was the port length needed. Just wanted to know if the theory of the external port was solid first.