Everything posted by cLutcH
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(1) 18 or (2) 15's
My question isnt which will get louder. I already know that (2) 15's will hit louder because of more cone area. But would getting a single 18 be any advantage over getting 2 15's. Soundwise. I dont want to hear "less wiring"......
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(1) 18 or (2) 15's
Using sealed boxes. Would a single FiQ18 in 7 cubes or (2) FiQ15's in 2.6 cubes each hit the deepest?
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Q vs. anything
For my electrical. I plan on getting a 180 amp alternator (120 idle). Big 3 Upgrade. And 2 yellowtops. I plan on still using the zx1500.1 for my amp. I just calculated that i can have a single 18 with around 7 cubes sealed. So yea im pretty excited. Im gonna upload pics as soon as I have progress on my stuff. Long hours at work keep me doing anything massive
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Q vs. anything
The ZX1500.1 is probably a bit too much for the Q even with the BP option. I'd say it's more of a BL amp. It's not that you can't use it on one, just make sure you don't set the gain for max power other wise you'll be adding a recone kit to your list of things to buy. I say that because i own a 15" Q with BP option right now that i'm running off of a Kicker KX1200.1 and it's happy. So happy in fact that i wouldn't put anymore power to it than i have now. I like playing it loud and long and have no doubt i'd have fried the thing if i was sending it a few hundred more watts... I wasnt planning on using the gain high or using the bass boost at all. I hear its nothing but bad.
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Enclosure Question
To have a loud LOW end and the SMOOTHEST transient response (not punchy) and DEEP overall which type of box should I get.
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Q vs. anything
If the volume is lower I'm sure I'll hear a LITTLE treble haha. Will a 200 or 180 amp Alternator and 3 yellowtops support 3000 watts?
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Hooking up a second battery
Ok ill do the battery since thats a WHOLE lot easier. What kind of fuse? 300A with 1/0awg?
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Q vs. anything
My plans are is that I want to get a 180 or 200 amp Iraggi Alternator with a yellowtop under the hood and a yellowtop in the back usng all 1/0 awg wireing. A single 15 in a wedge 2.6 cube sealed box. The Q15 with BP Power and have a Kicker ZX1500.1 amp powering it (1500 watts). Then maybe at the end of summer add a third yellowtop, a second Q15 w/ BP and another Kicker ZX1500.1. Perhaps dynomat so my trunk lid doesnt explode.. Do my plans sound okay?
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Hooking up a second battery
Hooking up a second battery is something I've never done. Do I run a wire from the starter battery to the secondary battery. Or do i run a wire from my alternator to the secondary battery. What kind of fuse do I use? More than 1 on each end? Thanks
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Q vs. anything
Im sorry if what i said was confusing. I dont know if my system plans are contradicting each other. But 2 15's i beleive would sound good when i have the volume low. But i do want to get loud when i turn it up. Like i said, let me know if my plans are messed up. Im still learning.
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Q vs. anything
Maybe what i said didn't mean to you what it meant to me. You can control how loud the bass is on the head unit. I am definitely not an expert on this stuff and that is why I am a member on this forum. To learn. When i turn the bass up I want to get loud. If that answers your question.
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Q vs. anything
Well there is a bass knob. For daily listening I can turn the bass knob down. But when that knob is up, i want everyone to know that I got a system in my trunk.
- Q vs. anything
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Q vs. anything
I originally wanted to get 2 15's in a sealed box. Fi Q 15's with 1000 watts to each. Im not gonna be blasting the subs ALL the time. But when i want to get loud i want that capability. Let me know if my plans are contradicting each other. Im open for any oppinions
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Q vs. anything
Not gonna lie I do care about the looks of the sub. The SSA Icon to me looks kinda weird. I couldn't buy that. The Fi's look pretty cool looking. I know I'm gay for putting that into perspective but i want the whole package lol.
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Q vs. anything
No i havent. I have heard the W6v2 is a nice sounding sub. But doesnt get loud. I want the potential to get loud.
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Q vs. anything
Haha. A price I am willing to pay is 350 and under. But if over 350 ill have to think about it. What I'm not looking for an $800 sub because the company thinks they're sweet (JL).
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Q vs. anything
What other lines of woofers compare with the Fi Q series. For excellent sound quality, yet affordable price, and nothing mainstream that all you pay for is the name. Im curious of anyones thoughts because I am || that close to buying a 15" Q. But I want to make sure that I dont have any regrets after buying it. Any input is appreciated.
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Help On Specs Of SSD
Why do you need zmax? No one here with successful installs has asked that question.
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The Big 3 Help
This is another controversy. His alternator is a 90 amp. If he is running 1/0awg. He will never put enough current through that wire to match its maximum capacity. You fuse should match your alternator so in case the battery tells the alternator to put out more power than it can, it wont blow your alternator. Then you will be forced to get a H.O. Explain how the battery tells the alternator anything. At idle your stock alternator is only putting out about have its amps. That is because the battery doesnt have much strain and much of its power isnt being used. While driving with the radio, fan, lights, phone charger, ect, the battery is using much more current and that is where the alternator is putting out most of its power. If he is running 1k+ watts through his system alone, his battery is drawing a LOT more current from the alternator, and that is where electrical problems occur. Just like any motor, overworking causes problems.
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Box Building
Go to subwoofertools.com if you have never built a box before
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The Big 3 Help
This is another controversy. His alternator is a 90 amp. If he is running 1/0awg. He will never put enough current through that wire to match its maximum capacity. You fuse should match your alternator so in case the battery tells the alternator to put out more power than it can, it wont blow your alternator. Then you will be forced to get a H.O.
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Q 15's vids
Are they in seperate chambers? 2.5 each?
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Q 15's vids
A measuring tape might be helpful
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The Big 3 Help
The wire that needs to be fused is the one running from the alternator to the battery. And the fuse has to be matched to the output of the alternator. There is controversy about where the fuse should be. Some say in the middle, some say closer to the alternator, and some say towards the battery. I couldnt get a straight up answer anywhere so i just put it in the middle. Nothing blew yet