SoundSplinter

That indeed is quite a sexy truck! Nice job

There are a few things to consider. First, the larger the box, the greater your relative overall output should be, just as a higher tuning frequency will typically create a higher peak output. Second, the tuning frequency will play a hand in determining where your peak frequency will be, where lower tunings will allow greater low-frequency extension, and higher tunings will limit the low end. With respect to the RL-p12, I've found the ideal car-audio enclosure to be between 1.5 - 2.0 cu ft in net volume, and tuned between 28 - 34 Hz. I would suggest that you either stick towards the relatively small internal volume & higher tuning, or the relatively large internal volume and lower tuning, as this will aid in maintaining a flat frequency response. For example, if you run with 1.5 cu ft @ 34 Hz, you will have a fairly balanced response with relatively high output capability. Likewise, with 2.0 cu ft @ 28 Hz you will maintain a relatively balanced response with slightly greater low-frequency extension, perhaps at the expense of a touch of overall output capability. If, however, you went with the larger 2.0 cu ft box and tuned towards the higher 34 Hz frequency range, your response will no longer remain as flat as the relatively large box and high tuning will create a peak in your response near 35 Hz. This box will be -- overall -- the loudest of the three, but it won't sound as pleasing to the ear as certain frequencies will perform considerably louder than others.

Some ideas: Orion 1200D (1200 watts @ 1ohm, new @ $299) Orion 1200D (1200 watts @ 1ohm, refurb @ $229) HiFonics BXi 1606D (1600 watts @ 1ohm, new @ $278) HiFonics BX-2005D (2000 watts @ 1ohm, new @ $289) ** Buy from eBayers at your own risk :ph34r:

If you have 'er in the right box with the right power, no problem

Yep, those would be the Eclipse baskets. I've shyed away from putting those to use in my own lineup, as Eclipse paid for the tooling so there could be potential legal issues if they were used in a subwoofer marketed for car audio enthusiasts. It is a nice basket though.

Not terribly likely. I don't believe we have any baskets tooled for that motor in that size. The only 18's I see being built down at the plant are using the Eclipse basket or are pro-audio speakers. I won't count out adding an 18 to the lineup, but it will be a ways off.

But the output surely will! I say run with the 12" - it will extend deeper and offer greater overall output. In a sealed enclosure 1.25 cu ft in size, it shouldn't be overbearing at all and will make for some very clean bass. I mean hey, my mother of some 65 years has been using [this RL-i12] for the last year or so.. and she's certainly not someone who would put up with bass that floods out the rest of the sound.

> Is the rl-i12 gonna be better than the rl-p12 for SQ then? Tough call. In a sealed application, the RL-i12 should extend a little lower, however the RL-i12's I have on hand do not feature a copper sleeve in the motor whereas the RL-p's do.. and that lends a bit of distortion protection in the RL-p's favor. Shieet man, it's really too close to call. If you want to go sealed and have very solid clean bass off of relatively little power, the RL-i12 is your ticket. If you want maximum output or desire a vented enclosure, I would lean towards the RL-p. > Also, could you offer another estimate for rl-i10 availability time? I've been told that production should take place during the later half of this month. Of course, as the t-yolks are in transit and not even at the assembly plant yet, these estimates are always subject to wide variation. It won't be until the yolks are at the plant that I'll have a reliable leadtime estimate.

Indeed, one-offs are absolutely ridiculously priced. I mean I might be able to snag one for a demo setup -- but having them made to order just wouldn't be worth it given the time management issues on the production end of things, not to mention the associated costs. If and when the time comes, I'd want to include it as a full addition to our lineup rather than a special order kind o' deal. Either way, this is not in the immediate future

You really gonna make me rummage through ye ol' storage closet? My best estimate would be that there are maybe three or four. Everytime I mention 'em I get a little flurry of interest, but no one seems to follow through. They are surely great sounding drivers though, for the 200-500 watt use range. .. and so, I've been slowly building boxes for family and giving them away as gifts instead

Word

> not mass marketed There's the key note right there, some 18 months in business and I've spent about $250 on advertising.. the rest has spawned through word of mouth from happy people . As for genuine apparel, I'll see what I can do about that. And holy sh

Sniping! 10's are late due to slow arrival of steel t-yolks Can't do the RL-p deal, but I can offer you an RL-i12 D4 for the price of the RL-i10 (that goes for anyone reading this, unless I'm out of 'em!)

.. would be sweet though

They are similar, both built around the TC2+ motor design - however utilizing a different moving assembly. The RL-i will work quite well in small to moderately sized home theaters. If you want to discuss your specific setup, just drop me a line. Glad to hear you're diggin' your 8's, 60 Representin' on the central coast!

RL-p12: 0.0471 m^2 -- 471 cm^2 -- 73 in^2 RL-p15: 0.0806 m^2 -- 806 cm^2 -- 125 in^2

B

Well then hit me back with an email -- in fact, you'll be getting your waitlist notification from me later today.

> Is there going to be a SVC version still? The single 4 ohmers are in! Just in the nick of time - as I'm almost sold out of the dual 4's RL-i8 S4 Specifications: Qts - 0.217 Qes - 0.235 Qms - 2.798 Fs - 25.758 Hz Re - 3.78 Ohms Ls - 2.022 mH Vas - 23.44 L Mms - 92.47g Cms - 412.8u m/N Bl - 15.51 T*m Sd - 0.0201 m^2 Sensitivity - 84.14 dB @ 1W

I'll let someone with experience working with trucks answer your question about port firing... but as for your other Q's: I would opt for the ~21 square inch port area. You could go to 30 if you really want to, but it's unecessary and will only serve to require a longer port overall. As for tuning, 32 Hz is a good level for what has been dubbed the "SQL" style setup. In the car audio environment, I would opt for anything between 28 - 34 Hz. Lean lower if you want more emphasis on the low-end, and lean higher if you want more overall output. I'll also note that if you go with a lower tuning, you can raise your net volume up to 2.0 cu ft in order to boost the output while maintaining a reasonably flat response curve. As you go towards higher tuning frequencies, I would keep the box down closer to the 1.5 cu ft net measure, as larger boxes with relatively higher tunings can create some undesireable peaks in your response.

Hah - will wonders never cease?!

Off-topic: Heh, the high roll on the original RL-i8 was done in large part due to parts limitation (also the reason why it took so long to get the revamped drivers out) - and as you indicated, it was entirely unecessary for the excursion the driver would create (though yes, it did look pretty freaky cool ). On-topic (kinda): Welcome to the forums Matt and Matlow! These new mids you got comin' out look to be quite the niceness. I'm finally getting around to installing those crossovers you made, Dylan, along with the Dayton reference midwoofer and tweet combo. Can't wait - but as I'm a total slut when it comes to aesthetics.. I am in fact waiting until I get the box finished up proper before I throw 'em in and let 'em wang Since I am such a cam whore, and it seems the people be cryin' for eye candy - here's a little somethin' somethin', genuine OlogyAudio crossovers goin' into my ~0.6 cu ft cabs Best of business to you all!

O RLY?!

Well polyfill ain't gonna help your top end extension.. nevertheless and as M5 noted, it isn't too difficult to try out (unless you're worried about stripping your screw holes on the baffle - another win for the T-nuts!). Some people enjoy the fill, some don't -- but given the size of your enclosure, I don't think it's necessary by any means. As for your crossover point.. In my experience, I prefer between 60 - 80 Hz on down.

I'd aim for around 3.25 cu ft net volume tuned to 28 Hz on the RL-p15 in car. But as demin noted, you will likely be experiencing a slight reduction in overall output. For power, throw a solid 700-1000 watts at the driver, and she'll do ya well =]