SoundSplinter

I would add some extra dampening. Perhaps line the interior walls with egg-crate, or stuff with up to a pound of polyfill/fiberfill per 1.2 cu ft chamber. When it really comes down to it, it's personal preference - and it won't be hard to pull that stuff out, not to mention that the polyfill is cheap as all hell.. so give it a whirl with, and without, and then decide what you like!

2 cubes on the RL-s12 would be fine.. but the 800 watt power load would leave it a little hungry. If you can run an IB setup with 800 watts, you'd have some serious awesomeness.. but with a 2 cube sealed box, I would suggest a solid 1200 - 2000 watts. The 600-700 watts on each RL-i8 is pushing it, though I've hit 'em with that much before without any problems . Even so.. you need to be very careful if you do. Set your gain wrong/have a leaky box/boostin' your line in.. could all lead to a ruined speaker right quick.

I'm back! Man, 700 miles is a pretty brutal drive, even with great bass for the driving beat Pretty wiped tonight, but it is my mission to get through all of these long lost emails from the past 8 days, no later than tomorrow's end. My apologies to all who have waited upon a response. I won't hold it against ya if you couldn't wait and had to turn to another solution - but for those that did submit orders while I was gone, I am going to share my appreciation by crediting a 10% discount on all orders placed July 3 - July 10. Give me 36 hours and all will be back to the norm.. and then I get to start haulin' my life over to my new casa! Sheesh I just can't catch a break this month!

Hey e'ryone, Just wanted to drop in and wish you all well, whether you're spendin' time with your family, bro's, or just a few bottles of beer and the World Cup (now EuroCup ) to keep ya company! I also want to make note that I am on vacation - and all communications with and regarding SoundSplinter products or orders will be delayed until July 10th! I'd brought my laptop up here along with my 400gb external drive containing all the necessary data to continue conductin' business on the road, but the network here at my bro-in-law's has a severe distaste for my personal computer and I haven't been able to remedy the problem. Therefore, I may or may not be able to process business matters while I'm here - as it stands, I am not. So if ya see peeps start twitchin' and trippin' at the lack of communication on my end, just tell 'em that I'm 700 miles away from my home base, hangin' in Southern Oregon with my family through the 10th of July, and that I'll be sure to hit all pending correspondance as soon as I get back. Hope everyone is havin' as great a time as I am! Let's all toss back a few cold ones for them patriots that afforded us this crazy country we live in today!

Impressive, beautiful truck! I'm honoured to see SoundSplinter in such a fine vehicle. [edit: my crackpot spelling]

I have a first gen matte black pained aluminum RL-i10 layin' round these parts if you're interested in that

Like a Fox!

Both RL-i drivers displace approximately the same amount of volume. Use 0.1 cu ft for the RL-i10 and 0.09 cu ft on the RL-i8. > i read somewhere that you can put the sub in a plastic bag and put it in a bucket full of water Yes you can do this, but odds are that your plastic is not going to mold perfectly to the driver (there will remain pockets of air), and therefore your result will be a displacement figure that is somewhat larger than it should be.

I'm sure Mr. Ray is just playin' around. He's a wild cat Speakin' of Mr. Ray, check your PM's man! .. or better yet, respond to 'em!

Added spec's to my first post above, for the 8's that 60ndown is lookin' to trade. [click for quick link]

Send it in! .. and about that 2500 watts:

Happy you're happy MrSwiss!

For a sweet response, go with a minimum 2.1 cu ft net internal volume (the RL-p15 will displace 0.21 cu ft of airspace, so taking that into account, 2.31 cu ft internal volume). This will make for a nice even keeled response, with good low end extension.

lolz.. you cats are too funny! The RL-s series, starting with the 15, will undergo some changes - but these will likely not take effect for many moons given the all too often extensive leadtime involved with implementing changes in production. An additional driver will be introduced to one of our already existing lines as well.. but that's all I'mma let go for now!

Sealed would indeed be the safer bet - I would aim for between 2.0 - 2.5 cu ft net volume for in car performance. You could go ported as well, but you would need to be more cautious about all that power you have on tap. If you plan to compete for SPL, you may wish to go ported to begin with since that's almost inevitably what you will use in competition - so you can get a feel for the driver, experience it in the given setup, and then work off that experience to tweak it for more output down the line when you get serious. If you do go ported, I would start with around 3.0 cu ft tuned to 28 Hz. Have fun!

I wouldn't be so quick to discount the 10's. One of my best friends has been running two of the RL-i10's in ~0.8 cu ft sealed per driver, with ~200 watts to each, runnin' on 2 years now.. and it is a bangin' setup for any type of music! Very clean, deep, just dead sexy really.

> are you you, yourself or possibly irene? LOL ! That movie is great. As for the front fender, I best be learnin' how to ride the damn thing before I start gettin' too serious about the cosmetics.. though I'm sure in due time.. let's hope I do keep that rubber on the ground! :ph34r: I suppose I may have hijack'd this thread a bit MikeJ - find a new one!.. and in other news, it's lookin' like I'll have some more of them D4 8's next week

Oh it works for me my friend... and that's all that counts! This bike is like a lazy-boy.. a couch on wheels - so comfortable! Which will be very important if I take it on trips up to Oregon as intended. Now the biggest problem is gettin' into one of the local motorcycle safety courses.. damn things are booked into August!

Pfft.. picky picky! For the record, I really don't mind soundsplinter for soundsplinter trades in the soundsplinter forum.. it just makes sense! MikeJ - I got you covered - check your email, sent a second one just minutes ago. .. and here's some pic's of my new bike

They are not the same as our RL-i Series 8's, though are quite similar in their capabilities. The above drivers feature single 6 ohm coils. I will get some spec's for ya'll asap. Just hit me with some disgruntled PM's if you don't see 'em posted in the next couple days I'm off to buy my first motorbike today (a used '94 Kawasaki KZ1000 police bike, repainted black with a partially rebuilt engine for $1500).. so I may get a little distracted in the near term! EDIT: Here's the params.. Qts - 0.405 Qes - 0.442 Qms - 4.778 Fs - 34.289 Hz Re - 5.25 Ohm Ls - 12.16mH Lp - 4.053 mH Rp - 25.46 Ohm Vas - 5.031 L Mms - 214.1 g Cms - 100.6 m/N Bl - 23.39 T*m Sensitivity - 78.44 dB

I know you know it, but I'm sayin' it anyway -- 200 watts is a little low on the RL-p! To get the most out of the driver in a home theater app, I would indeed vent the mother. You can go sealed with great results, but the low end may be lacking somewhat unless you incorporate some sort of eq boosting (an LT would work well, some of my HT oriented customers have had great sucess with the mono bassis from marchand - a little pricey, but an excellent addition to a sealed box HT driver for fleshing out those lows real nice). Shoot for around 2.0 - 4.0 cu ft, with a tuning frequency between 17 - 20 Hz, providing a minimum of 20 square inches of port area. Even with the measly 200 watts it should get goin' pretty nicely in a vented setup - but rest assured that tripple the power (and even a second driver) would be absolutely blissful

> If they are so much alike, i think i would rather have Mike at my side!!! .. and I think you know what I think - I think you should do whatever the hell ya damn well please!

A true 1200 watts in a ported box on the RL-p is entirely unecessary and only adds additional stress to the driver imo. Sealed boxes can be a little tricky on the RL-p12s because they do drop off quick if they are too small, and the output is considerably more impressive in a vented setup. Your 1.25 cu ft should sound great - though indeed if your primary goal is SPL, you may be left with some desire unfullfilled. If SPL is your primary goal, and you are standing firm behind the idea of a sealed enclosure - I would suggest movin' on up to 2.0 cu ft per driver and hittin' each speaker with a clean 1000 watts. However, if you are willing to build a more complicated and likely larger enclosure - the use of a vented box will really make the RL-p's come alive in terms of output, and can be used effectively with 600 watts a piece. Built properly, they can also retain a relatively flat response offering clean and accurate transitions. For the 12" RL-p, I would suggest 1.5 cu ft @ 34 Hz for economy of space while retaining excellent output alongside a good response curve. However if you have the room, I would ideally suggest 2.0 cu ft @ 28 Hz for in-car use of the RL-p12 - which will allow for a deep, smooth, and loud setup. Of course, if SPL is really your primary goal, you should tune up in the mid to upper 30's.. but you won't often hear me recommend larger + higher tuned enclosures 'cause that's just not where I get off in this game Good luck tweakin' your system - be sure to fill us in on the progress!

^^ Ya, what ///M5 said! ^^ 12 square inches of port will suffice (a single round 4" port for example). I wouldn't go any higher than 1.25 cube net in a ported box... and as M5 noted, the larger your ported box gets (particularly if you are using a relatively high tuning frequency), the peakier the response will become. 0.65 @ 25 Hz would be uber sexy for home use. In car, I've seen a post here by a customer who used around 1.1 cu ft @ 35 Hz and is very pleased.