lithium

i wont recommend a sub but i wanted to make sure that you've checked the mounting depth before you buy. the box looks pretty shallow. however you could just add an mdf ring to get more depth if needed. id like to point out that maybe you should consider trying to work a design for a ported box in your space.. i understand your trying to save space but maybe a shallow box thats more like a false floor? you would just have to cover the sub with a grill so u can lay things ontop of it.. maybe consider 2 sa-8's from sundown since they have smaller mounting depth and together they still have the about the same power handling as a the Fi Q. a ported box would meet your goal of "loud" much much easier then a sealed 10.

hey guys been awhile. i got my stuff from SDS installed in the doors, it worked wonders! only rattles left are from where the speakers flange touches the rear of the door panel... maybe some foam around the flange will work there..

you should have probably sanded the basket down to bare metal. i did my first recone recently aswell,

good to see the install getting cleaned up. good work!

a box that large will really lower the power handling... sounds like this guy is pushing his box on you... i wouldnt recommend doing this since the gain is output wont be very noticeable as well as unsafe.. try to stick with 3/4" mdf for box construction. although u might be able to get away with 1/2 if you brace the box really well... consider using 3.4 mdf on the front baffle and sides and 1/2 on the back if you must. but like i said, consider other options (maybe fiberglass?)

:wiki schadenfreude: ... ahhhh i understand now i cant wait to hear my gf's parents bitching about it this weekend... her dad practically worships beck and bill-o

the mandate will make for some good tv Stewart and cobert should have some good show for the next week or 2 haha

im sure you'll love the fullrange and big midbasses. i know i do! good to see someone else playing around with this setup.

well done

i want one Luckily they are getting cheap if my car dies before i finish college im not sure what ill be able to afford. my first car i paid straight up cash for when i was 16 so it would suck to have a loan...

how did you calculate this Dmin = 2030(Vd2/Fb)1/4/Sqrt Np good lord i have to do real math... im this hobby to stray away from this kind of shit lol.. just kidding im a physics major so me > maths lol thanks for the eq.

good to see another guy from PA!

i want one

how did you calculate this

alright thanks. my bro need some cheap power for his 15" l7. its a dvc 4ohm so im looking for some decent power @ 2ohms. the ap looks good for 160 bucks. his kenwood just took a shit

nevermind forgot he was thinking about horns

sexy deadener!

would you say the ap is putting out close to rated @ 2 ohm?

stick a multi meter on it and measure resistance

I've seen these out there. The price is right. The specs are about par with my current Atlas. The AE15IB would make and excellent replacement if I ever burn the Atlas. I'm looking to make a step up. I have heard that AE offers a car version of the AE15IB. I think the VAS and the Qts are lower. That along with a 18 cubic foot trunk would give you and overall system Q closer to .7. I'm not the authority on any of this mumbo jumbo, but some say that a overall system Q of .7 make for a pretty good sounding system. I'm just not too sure on the AE sub because, they are still 100 watt subs with an X-max of 18mm and a sensitivity of 86dB. Which is what I currently have. On the other hand. The IB3 is a 500watt at 20Hz, 30mm x-max sub with a similar 86dB sensitivity. In theory if I get a pair of these and a 1000 watt amp how close to scratching 140dB will I get ? not sure on your math but i wonder if your trunk would have enough air space for the 2 15s. do you plan additional venting in the trunk?

that was just guess work as we didnt have any model numbers. this is why we need to keep to the posting guildlines

the sls 8 is pretty proven in this application. i personally use it in my 2 way. i think your getting ahead of your self by worrying about adding a tweeter already. there are some great full ranges offered by tangband and Fountek that are pretty popular in this application. these are pretty cheap in the 25 dollar a piece range. both have good reviews on Zaph. these are not the only options. i used a peerless driver that was on sale for only 10 bucks a piece at the time. look around madisound and partsexpress. take a look at the Fountek FR88-EX and tang band w3 (both as i mentioned are reviewed on zaphaudio.com under the smaller driver test)

I was thinking door if I went bigger, like an 8, but that is going to take a lot of modification to my door. I was thinking maybe two 7s or 6.5s in the door but don't know how that normally works out. I would be kind of concerned with the loss of detail in the upper freq, thats one of the reasons I was originally thinking a 3 way. I wouldn't mind untilizing a horn though, it would have to be a mini though, there isn't much space below my dash on the passenger side. I was hoping to have good staging as well, don't know how possible that is with this type of setup. Although, I have heard that horns really raise the soundstage, or maybe that they had better imaging, I can't remember which one. Would the full range provide the SPL that I am going for as well? imo the loss of detail is pretty minor as the focus is more on bringing the midbass up to par. if you feel your lacking anything significant you could easily integrate a small tweeter next to the mid but this is probably not needed. running multiple midbasses in the doors would work ok, i would not suggest the same for a midrange. there are good options for shallower ~8 inch options as well. i know nothing of horns.. someone else should be able to help there. good staging is completely possible. all in the install you should have no problem getting enough volume out of a fullrange.

wow confusing thread. lets just make this clear. max ratings are bullshit so no one use them... please deal in rms only

if your serious about midbass i recommend a real nice 8 inch, peerless sls for example. currently im running 8in sls in my doors and a 3 inch full range on axis in the a-pillers. a set up like mine may be more favorable for you for afew reason. the first is that it allows you to choose a monster midbass and not have to worry about tweeter intergration because a full range can play down lower. another reason is that full range drivers are smaller and cost a bit less then using horns or some other exotic solutions. also a midrange, imo, is easy to work with since its crossed low, some where between 300-500 hz, unlike a midrange and tweeter which is crossed higher. downsides to this are some loss of upper freq. details, depending on driver choice this may not be to noticeable. another problem is finding a mounting location that isnt obtrusive. currently mine are mounted in pvc endcaps, which i found in the plumping hardware section, till i deside on a mounting angle and fiber glass them.