lithium

minidsp has a solution (minidc) but you might as well build your own.

This is on my to-do list as well. https://github.com/theksmith/CarBusInterface That's the app I'm using. i was fucking around with that actually. i need some dumbed down instructions before id spend more time with it. serious lack of motivation to work on a car i drive <100mi a week.

you would think they'd upload something better than 240p

GM it is one wire.As for the Joyconn, I have one just happens to be the older non-Can bus version. Just wanted to check to see if I could skip the SWI which is why I wanted to check. well at least i know what to get. dont really want to spend money on another joycon right now. i've been making due with a blue tooth remote.

oh wait, isn't canbus 2 wires?

This is on my to-do list as well. Ha, found my green wire today. I have a SWI-RC and a Joyconn. Since the SWI does not do CAN bus I wonder if I just don't need it. Figure a resistance check on the green wire to ground or power ought to tell me.Curious how you all would wire tap it as well. I'd normally just cut and either solder or solderless, but that'll be annoying. It came with a 3M tap, but I don't trust those at all...although that stems from a bad amp install when I was 14 lol Is it safe to assume that if you read +12v between the wire and ground that you're dealing with a canbus signal? I think thats the case with mine... if you want to throw some money at it, here's an option

This is on my to-do list as well.

pretty cool idea

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qa2nnGM6Mq8

Duly noted. I can grab the 600s all day for $150-200 less than the 650s. Is the money for the 650s justifiable? Also, I can get the over ear Momentums for $140 less than the 600s... So... please give me some insight. i cant speak on the 600 or higher. still rocking my 558s. 598s use the same driver as the 558s so my upgrade will be either the 600/650. Just haven't pulled the trigger. Finding good info on headphones is proving difficult. The forums I've seen are shit. You really should try some open over ear cans like the 558/598. sell them if you decide to grab the higher end stuff later

This is a bit different. All i did was move to a different state.

$200 to register and transfer title in IL. wtf

hd558/598 are super impressive for <$150. but you have the amp so might as well go 600+

swag

sweet! look great. get to the steering wheel controls yet?ha. That is fired up in a temporary manner. Have HP tuners on it and music. gotcha. motivation to work on my car dropped off quite a bit. bluetooth remote will suffice for now.

sweet! look great. get to the steering wheel controls yet?

ppi 900.5 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38339_Precision-Power-PPI-P900.5.html

nice! i kinda want to build a lego myself..

http://www.headphone.com/pages/build-a-graph

look nice. not a big fan of on ear. still wear my grados from time to time. my 558s are super comfy and sound fantastic. i'm curious how accurate this sites measurements are.. \ http://graphs.headphone.com/graphCompare.php?graphType=0&graphID[]=4193&graphID[]=2861&scale=30

you got a pair of momentums right? im considering a pair for work. Need to be closed rather then my open 558s and grado cans. On the other hand I might stick with some cheap iem at work and grab some hd600.

I dont use the tube amp that much honestly. I was planning to use it at work. But I have an electrical noise that is only present while using the amp at work and not at my apartment. Probably need to come up more robust filtering or just battery power it. another option I like to use is this dac to directly drive my headphones. pretty cheap burr-brown. http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI use a second one as the dac in my car. think sean is using it too.

enjoy electronics? i built this little amp for fun. http://diyaudioprojects.com/Solid/12AU7-IRF510-LM317-Headamp/