lithium

the sundown looks like a biggg asss sub so it most likely wont work for you if your looking to fit it behind a seat... can you do a center console box?

check out tang band 8s on parts express and dayton hf whats your mounting depth?

price and the btl's have the potential to handle way more power then the bl's

seems ok now, im on a mac and my browser is firefox, if that makes a difference..

There's a reason why I don't watch news programs of any kind i stick to non main stream media, which is The daily show and Colbert Report. lol I watch The Daily Show and Colbert Report just to see how they're going to rip into recent political news...really funny shit there's a reason John Stewart is the most trusted name in news POLL

see in 2012 the moon is gona crash into the earth sooooo nasa is going to "hit" the moon to push it back into proper orbit!!!!!!!!!! rofl

sounds good. doing a wall will also save you from deadening the trunk so thats a plus. gl with the pods!

i guess if you hit the surface hard you can see if there are any ice particles below the surface with out having to land something on there to dig it up...

There's a reason why I don't watch news programs of any kind i stick to non main stream media, which is The daily show and Colbert Report. lol

good job with the amps!

Hey hey, watch it bud! I dont go around bashing your vehicle.... haha sorry, i cant talk to much shit tho.... im building a false floor while my tranny is about to go.. so if I was to get some 1/16" x 1/2" plate steel, and cut lengths to span the openings, how big of gaps could I leave and have the deadener still adhere and stick there for good? i noticed my door flexes when you put the windows up so stiffening might be bad for the window motor thingies... but thats just speculation. you could go ahead and do that tho. id say, depending on the quality of the deadener's adhesive, you could spand a couple inches just fine (2 or 3). what about cutting some fiberglass mat, laying that on there with some resin and maybe another layer of resin to stiffen it up and then cover the entire skin with deadener? ummm, you could make molds to cover the holes on the door. but you want to be able to access inside of the doors some how (for repairs) so dont cover the whole thing... using fg to stiffen up the door card could work quite well! what mesh are you talking about exactly? I know theres expanded metal, but there isnt much surface area on a peice of that for the deadener to adhere to? and not sure how Id attach it to the door? like roof flashing or chicken fence wire. its just to give the deadener something alittle stiffer then air to grab on to when spanning large holes. (use a sheet metal screw to attach, or non hardening caulk.. like silicon) and I am going to use expanding foam in between the door skeleton and outer skin, as well as anywhere else I think it will be beneficial. probably trunk lid, maybe open rear doors and do in there, and if I get ambitious enough, maybe drop the headliner and go between the skeleton and ribs up there also. careful with that stuff in the door, u need to allow water to get out of between the skins. hit anywhere else u can think of. trunk lid is great. i also hit my rear deck real good. another thing is, I was told by someone one here, that the setup I took out of the wifes car was too big and was choking the setup and not letting bass back into the cabin, and this box doesnt leave much area for the waves to get around. plus I dont want then to be vulnerable to stuff in the trunk because as the one pic shows, anything in the trunk is going to be RIGHT next to them basically. also, as a reference, my wifes car has 1 12 on 300 watts forward firing without being sealed from the trunk, and it isnt too bad. Id hope 3 times the power, almost triple the cone area, and a tighter fit would be even better. afew points: -first figure out which is louder firing forward or backwards. make sure to move the box around in the trunk, varying the distance from the trunk lid. (the box choking the path to the cabin maybe a problem buy you have to expirment with that first.) (firing backwards is ussually louder in a trunked car) (id also reccomend removing the rear deck speakers.) -if you go with rear firing, your pretty much out of trunk space with a box that big. keep your things in the backseat, or make contraption to hold your shit off to each side of the box with netting or a box. - if you decide to firing forward, id recommend you do a wall. if I come across a way to mount the box right where it is very ridgidly, I might make some quick little fiberglass panels that will mount to the metal where the seat mounts and go right to the face of the box. if I sealed it off though, I would want to seal those holes where the rear speakers were, right?\ yes this is referred to as walling it off. you must seperate the trunk from the cabin. this "could" net the most output. I got some terminals for the in-box wiring and some resin tonight, didnt get carpet because the box is gonna take 2 rolls, and it was 14 a roll at checkers, but the same stuff is 8.88 at walmart, but when the wife went by there for me after work, they didnt have black in stock, so Im just gonna wait on that to get back in stock. partsexpress has cabnet carpet real cheap too. 5.25 a yard i think. i just ordered abunch... tomorrow I plan on getting the factory deck out, new one just sitting there (no dash kit yet), hopefully carpet laid back in, amps mounted, and seats back in(front anyways). also the box will get the inside radius glassed. is it true I should also ground the chassis of the deck? is the ground wire in the harness not sufficent or something? well it wont hurt ot do an additional ground... so if you got wire i would ground it to the firewall... sorry that is such a mess, i lost internet so i couldnt post it. and i stuck it in a file to save it but the spaces are missing.

Great! thanks for your feedback on those! I wonder if the pioneers are better now? the 1201's are the latest generation of them. What didn't you like? Just the install or also the sound? I'll definitely check out the Kickers! kicker l5 or l7 8s or maybe the 10s might fit. im pretty sure the 8 have a mounting depth of about 4.75" u can get an l5 8" for 65 shipped off ebay..

I'm not opposed to 8's in a sealed enclosure - would they fit in the shallow depth i need? .6 -.75 cu ft sounds good for 1 or 2 8s per side. i vote two 8s per side or a 10" in that space. for the cost of a good shallow mount 12 you can find decent 8s that can fit.

the stats don't say if it can handle two ohms. I shouldn't be a problem though if it can handle 1 ohm. thats weird nope it can do 2ohm bridged and can do 1 ohm in a parallel configuration. very weird stuff tho.

this link will take u to the manual. you amp can handle a 2ohm bridged load. so just run it bridged with your coils wired in parallel to 2ohms. i never saw that parallel thing before but that is only for loads below 2ohms

i think life is kicking my ass tonight. gona try some sleep... no more math for me m5 peace out ladies

oh ok, i just punched the numbers into re box calc. maybe i just miss read..

your math is as bad as your reading. there are 48 1/4" pieces in 12", not 4. lol rofl... wow im goin to bed... ill just order from don...

looks to be about 4.6 net tuned to ~34 hz... port area look to small @ 50 sq inches (should be about 15 sq inches per cubic foot)

so the height of the port is 14.5" ?

i found something else but its a 1/4 inch think... might not work behind a door panel but if my math is right, it does come out to 1 1/8 lb/sq ft. My link specs i figured out 4 square feet of 1/4 inch material weighs 4.5 lbs so divide that by 4 square feet and u get 1.125 lb/sq ft.. should i look for something thinner?

damn, i fail at reading lol

i've been looking for a cheap alternative to mlv. hows this looking, volara, density claims to be 2lbs/sq ft specs. i plan to uses this on my doors.

just saw the new ixl 12 v2, very creative idea.

I think my PS2 is finally broked. I tried turning it on a dozen times the other day but it wouldn't output video or sound. For the last year I've had to start it, then restart it and it would work fine. And it has also had a static noise issue if it wasn't sitting right. I guess it's time had come. I'd get a new PS3 but they can't play PS2 games, so that's worthless to me. I think I heard they're coming out with one that can though. the first "run" of ps3 did have backwards compatibility, HOWEVER pucking sony decided to screw everyone else over... you cant get a backwards compatible ps3 and i haven't see any plans for them to bring option back as far as i know... so id look in to ebaying a used ps2 real cheap and picking up a new ps3 slim. Only the 60 & 80 units were though. Don't get a 20 or 40. I got a 40, but I have no real desire to play any old games. If I do, I'll throw the PS2 back on. Not too hard. true but i wouldnt recommend buying a ps3 used off ebay w/o warrenty. and a ps2 could be had for 50 bucks tops... i dont have time to play much right now and all the games i do play are on the 360... my dad plays the fuck outa socom tho lol.