lithium

i'm going to try adding a cap across the power pins on the dac. should give me some delay

update time! So back in October I accepted a job offer in Illinois so over the course of about 5 days I tried to do as much as possible to get things functional. I would lose access to tools and work space so finishing the FG was the biggest priority. these are the pods mocked up. missed some pictures here but the "finished" product. a wide angle shot from the dome light. based on my testing i preferred the midrange drivers off axis. In the driver seat the mids are approximately the same angle off axis and the tweeters are aimed to clear obstacles/blockages like my leg and the E brake. I'm not too happy with how they look (performance is fine but forming that opinion will take more listening time). I jumped the gun on upholstering the pods and should have used bondo to form the pod's edges to give a more seamless transition between the pod and interior. I need more practice with vinyl as you can see... those tight corners are a real pain. Some additional info on the pods. There are some holes cut in the back side of the pods to vent the enclosures into the carpet/through a hole which goes to the frame. I might cut the carpet at some point. The pods are also stuffed with polyfil. Moving on to the big ass holes in my doors. skip a few steps.... And that's as far as they went before I left. Assuming I'm happy with the midbass running IB in the doors I'll move ahead and finish these up in the spring. Otherwise ported door enclosures will be next I still have some work to do with deadening the doors. A few small rattles will need to taken care of. Something I tried but didn't take pictures of was adding about 5lbs of ductseal to the rear side each door trim panel. In the pic below (not my actual door panel) I circled the areas where the ductseal was applied. once the weather warms up I'm planning to do some more sound deadening. MLV from firewall to rear seats and rear doors, thinsulate acoustic in the headliner, and the other stuff i mentioned above concerning the front doors. Till then i've got a few problems to sort out. turn off pop due to the usb dac turning off before the amps scratchy sound from mids/tweets (not sure which yet) in cold temps (<20 degrees F). rear view mirror rattleIf you have any suggestions let me know.

beautiful work

oh neet.

strange mine use to do the opposite, half speed during the day/evening and full speed at night. got fiber at my new place in IL, love it.

We have the same router I am pretty sure. I have not installed DD-WRT as I have no idea what it is though. its custom firmware, i've used tomato (based on dd wrt) on a linksys router at my parents to add some QoS settings. might help

i remember my parents paying over a grand for a Panasonic plasma. 42" 720p and still has a better picture than most lcds ive seen

Uh yes I am very aware of that..lol cool, i was getting tired of correcting you.

you realize volume and area are different things right?

The speed of air does effect unwanted noise....More port volume slower the speed so that does not mean less port noise? think of it like using a larger gauge wire (more current), larger port area results in lower air velocity. That results in less unwanted noise.correct? larger area -> lower port air velocity -> less air turbulence/chuffing

The speed of air does effect unwanted noise....More port volume slower the speed so that does not mean less port noise? think of it like using a larger gauge wire (more current), larger port area results in lower air velocity.

Air velocity was more the factor than "cosmetics" and less port noise VIA "more port area" with the octagon ports.. Port area is what you said. Air velocity was more the factor than "cosmetics" and less port noise VIA "more port area" with the octagon ports.. Port area is what you said. Well maybe I should have said volume You know what I was getting at Smaller the volume faster air travels..Larger volume slower the velocity is what I was getting at. air speed is related to the cross sectional area not volume.

No disrespect brother...But I studied this field for years.. ummm shit posting is meant for the hop.

Maybe you would like to post this on your site so they could be more than 2 sections to search...Never buy a used sub! really? many people buy and trade used drivers on this site and others, if OP is aware of the risks than who cares. you've made your point by now i think.

I will check that when if I end up going to look at them. I guess I should clarify my $275 for it. I told him I would trade my 2-12" Memphis Audio PR's (500 RMS Total) in a dual ported box plus $130 cash. That would be a fair trade, don't you think? Why not just use one of your Icons? Because, in order for it to hit hard it would dim my lights and I didn't want to kill my alternator and the W7 is less RMS, but if it also dims my lights as well then I know I can sell it for the same price if not more. I don't want to spend money on upgrading my alternator and battery since I plan on selling my car this year. you should probably take a step back and address the issues with your current install rather than waste money.

take a look in person, have them hook it up and listen to it, check the dc resistance on the coils, etc.

Some people can see this and use it for help...so it might be fun for me if you think so but not for other I can even learn something like different audio brands out there...plus don't you want to no how something sound before you buy it...just say but hey I'm just a newbi you can get a pretty good idea of how something sounds from proper measurement. so if you dont see those measurement advertised then its probably a shit product (aka, almost every "car audio" speaker/comp out there). id spend that 150 on shit to improve your current install, sound deadener or maybe a minidps and go active on your components if you have enough channels on your amp.

I'm starting to feel the same. Chicago traffic exhausts me. Stay in get drunk and cook homemade hot wings and stuffed jalapeno peppers!!! That is what I'm going to do and call a drunk freak to come over after 12:00 to stay the night!! What's the longest you've gone without drinking? As a adult or kid? whats the difference?

what driver is the wideband? i was running the sls and a 3" peerless prior to the current setup

So you would not agree to any of this "for example" due to clipping....lol https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PF32APSjrk/// its the argument that a heavily clipped signal causes the sub to stop moving at points in time, which causes less heat to be dissipated by pole vents.

the poly will mold. the doors will act like a large sealed box that leaks, so its sort of IB. find a driver that will work better for that application. also, go read sounddeadenershowdown.com and do some deadening in those doors. an amp wont be enough to probably run ib, need a dsp.

germans

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTNKiTrX0Vk&feature=share

i'll get some updates for you guys this weekend.

i would recommend the balanced version of the minidsp 2x4 units. it puts out a bit more power unbalanced there are other options that like the minidsp power PPI and soundstream dsp but they have less features.