Everything posted by lithium
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Rear speaker problem, no separation.
unplug them. rear speakers do nothing but kill the front stage. if the front stage is lacking then address it first.
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MB Quart OA750.1 or PPI BK650.1D
no point to chasing an extra 100 watts. I would find the cheapest 500 watt amp you can find. probably find a great used deal.
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NEM's Evilinator!!
looks good!
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shopping for a 3 way passive set up
curious to hear NVX? has to do with the rebadge drivers (forget which brand) i assume?
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Best Head-Unit for expensive sub-stage and bass alone (NOT mids/highs)
I tried to look up what filter is used but they don't advertise it. Weird. Impious covered everything. But u should also consider some deadening as well. Give sounddeadenershowdown.com a read
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shopping for a 3 way passive set up
The cheapest set you can find? Waste the least amount of money lol
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Best Head-Unit for expensive sub-stage and bass alone (NOT mids/highs)
i would hope crescendo used 18 or 24 db/oct filters on an amp of this size. what impious is saying would still be true either way.
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Best Head-Unit for expensive sub-stage and bass alone (NOT mids/highs)
that's a sound deadening issue is it not? what do you mean when you say high frequencies are causing rattles?
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Best Head-Unit for expensive sub-stage and bass alone (NOT mids/highs)
bs. the amp crossover should do that job just fine.
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Buick Century - active 3way + sub w/ nexus 7
I started on the subwoofer baffle but didn't take any pictures yet. I have some CAD drawing and picture of my previous install so i'll post those for now. My previous car was an olds intrigue and both cars are gm w bodies so the trunk is essentially identical. However, i decided to change my previous amp rack and subwoofer baffle design completely. 3 of the amps and the processors were installed under the false floor and two more are mounted under the rear deck. This time around I want everything under the false floor. The design on the left is my current plan. The design on the right is similar to my previous build. The left design should give me ~6 extra inches in length for the amp rack. The difficulty i'm having is sealing the baffle to the rear deck/ski pass. FG and spray foam might be nessary. its worth noting that i'm retaining access to the spare.
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Buick Century - active 3way + sub w/ nexus 7
Trunk deadening pics. I went a little overboard because i had some extra tiles. I was going to remove the factory deadening (started to remove some) but decided to leave it. Deadening the trunk is not super important for a IB install. i wasted some tiles by placing them over non-flat sections of metal. So for the rear deck I wanted to try sealing some of the small holes with duct seal. Ended up using about 6 pounds of the stuff. You will also see some spray foam used in a few places. I also used some mdf to seal the rear speaker holes. Dont worry I found some shorter screws, only stabbed myself a few times. Butyl rope was used between the mdf and metal to create a good seal. I have mlv from my previous car which I tried to repurpose in various places. For example, I needed to seal a hole in the rear deck but couldn't use a 3/4" thick piece of mdf. mlv and amazing goop did the job just fine. To complete the rear deck I used mlv and ccf to create a barrier. A layer of 1/4" ccf was laid down to decouple the mlv from the rear deck. MLV was laid down on top and all seams were sealed with contact cement and mlv. I used a bunch of scrap mlv to seal the seam in the middle. The rest of the mlv that I order was suppose to be used to deaden the front doors. So I used the old scraps from my previous install here to finish the barrier. Looks like shit but functions just fine. In retrospect, I should've ordered enough to get the job done. Piecing together scraps was a pain in the ass. I used more duct seal around any holes in the barrier.
- Buick Century - active 3way + sub w/ nexus 7
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Buick Century - active 3way + sub w/ nexus 7
This is pretty much a reinstall of my previous build with a few changes. Namely the nexus 7 tablet install. A parts list is probably the best place to start. Speakers dayton nd20 (A pillars, probably)tang band w4 1337 (kick panels)peerless sls 8" (IB doors, might build enclosures if rattles can not be controlled)mach 5 mj18 8ohm (IB ski pass)Amps tweeter amp - kicker 100.2mid amp - us acoustics usx 2080midbass amp - 2x kicker 250.2sub amp - cadence zrs2002processing 2x minidps 2x4 Tablet and related hardware nexus 7 (1st gen)otg cable (usb and charge)4 port usb hubjoycon exr steering wheel interfaceSound deadening everything is from SDS. I'll list materials as I use them and give an approximate list here. 50 tiles~30 sq ft of ccf~18 sq ft of mlv1 roll butyl ropeStuff I might have to buy dacline driverI'll skip the unimportant bits like wiring. I use the cheap stuff anyways. Here is my plan for installing everything. sound deaden trunk/rear deck build baffle (IB) for sub build amp rack run all the wiring sound deaden everything else install midbass test aiming for the mid and tweeters fg A pillars fg kick panels install nexus 7 tune tune tune I think thats pretty much it. Constructive criticism is welcome. warning: All pictures will be taken with a potato. I'll grab a decent camera for final pics.
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Which Tweeter & Midbass for 2 way active front stage?
Great info, thanks! Wouldn't you know the ppi is out of stock until June 1st as well.....SONOFA! Please tell me it's only the Symphony series of Crescendo that is bad. The BC2000 I had did well, and the new recent BC5500 purchase was planned to be in my vehicles for quite a while. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_33876_Precision_Power_P9004.aspx?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=Product_Feed&utm_campaign=google_shopping_Price_Comparison&gclid=CNPLpbLSsb4CFSgQ7AodJgUAWA still in stock some places i think
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
I'm selling my old car and a guy stops by to take a look at it. Never seen a guy taste test oil in person before. It was pretty weird. He told me the head gasket is blown and offered $500, lol. Already have a guy coming monday to buy it for a grand.
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
iirc, sean runs his ported and a sub for <100hz. a 2way with a 6-7" mid would certainly get you the midbass you need and you might not need the sub. depending on your tastes.
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
http://www.zaphaudio.com/ might find an idea or two there. im using the 3" hivi fullrange set for my computer speakers. they do an ok job on their own but you really need a sub. sean is running tang band w4 titaniums full range, iirc. i run them in my car in a 3 way. really sweet speakers. PE has the overnight sensations kits as well. https://www.parts-express.com/overnight-sensations-mt-speaker-kit-pair--300-706
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Which Tweeter & Midbass for 2 way active front stage?
mounting depth for the door speakers? or will you be modifying the door trim to fit anything? also, amp suggestion. ppi 900.4. similar power to the crescendo, 100 bucks cheaper, and probably a hell of a lot smaller. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38338_Precision-Power-PPI-P900.4.html
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
note to self, don't leave the car door open when cutting mdf on a windy day... fuck
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Blew my bc2000
Is that the website....I will look into it http://www.db-r.com/
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
https://www.sodapopstop.com/products/browse.cfm?link=1&s=57 i'll probably order a few later.
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
really want to order some root beer
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
- Welcome to the IHoP v.2
can't believe how long I spent sound deadening my trunk/rear deck. need to start a build log soon i guess- Welcome to the IHoP v.2
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/05/10/_n_5302213.html - Welcome to the IHoP v.2