lithium

10s will be louder than 8s, thats the only difference.

how much loss is power compression responsible for? is it in the neighborhood of 2-3 db for one woofer or 3-4 db for another? thats not significant if those two woofers have a large difference in efficiency.

should do alright. not sure what you're reference for output is so who can say its its loud enough.

Different drivers have different degrees of power compression, which can very much make the drivers stray from their efficiency ratings at various power levels. Also, there isn't a well-followed standard behind most manufacturer's efficiency ratings, as was stated earlier in the thread. my guess is that you can minimize that difference if you compare subs of similar power ratings and/or restrict the applied power to something reasonable.

winisd is pretty simple. plug in the t/s specs and the enclosure size. but drawing any conclusion or comparisons between enclosures requires a bit more understanding.

wait how the fuck do you think SSA came up with enclosure recommendations in the first place? i understand that the program doesn't model in car response but no one here is claiming that it does.

go with the recommended enclosure spec from SSA. if you have you're limiting dimensions someone could probably design the box for you. I can design the enclosure. As in the cubic feet and tuning (port length) and figure cut sheet and build really good. . I just always see people talking about that you can see frequency response and port velocity and stuff like that. .... that's what I was trying to figure out SSA already figured it out. that's where their numbers come from.

dcon are probably too deep. maybe sundown sd would work. are you sure on the depth?

go with the recommended enclosure spec from SSA. if you have you're limiting dimensions someone could probably design the box for you.

http://www.db-r.com/sell/store3/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_5_25_45_62

i think it was this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Autotek-M4000-1D-Mean-Machine-Series-Monoblock-Class-D-Car-Audio-Amplifier-Amp-/141090674057?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item20d9a8d589 not the old one, if that matters. oh wait i see. the old amp was the mm4000.1 and the new shit is m4000.1?

You are forgetting acoustics my friend. cabin gain

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/7168-a-technical-understanding-of-polyfill/ i guess it could get into the motor or something, maybe just reverse mount the sub if you're worried. You could also try fiberglass insulation stapled to the inside of the box.

testing

you're worrying a lot over a little more than 1 octave. keep the install malleable. the ability to change the port tuning and so forth will definitely help. what EQ does you hu have?

you can get a flat response with the btl. just need some EQ work. understand that you're approaching the limits of human hearing and your perception of loudness isn't as simple as what a microphone is measuring (vibrations through the body for example). also consider when listening to music that one bass note at one frequency does not necessarily have the same amplitude as another note at another frequency. so if you think that one note should be just as loud as the other while listening to the song you're wrong. imo, when you're listening to this chopped or slowed music, worrying about flat response seems like a waste of time. just get the output you need, take care of the sound deadening, and knock down bad peaks. m5 said to sell your shit because you used the definition of SQ incorrectly. you've been around long enough to know what the definition entails. . I'm after loud as fuck that doesn't sound dirty muddy or distorted." this very easy to accomplish. 1000$ subs and highend amps aren't need. just basic install skills.

sounds great! no reason to jump in over your head. if you have a home stereo or computer speaker set up it might be fun to pick up a 2x4 minidps unit and play around with the software and tuning. i think this would be a great way to learn before trying to do it in a car.

in terms of distortion your music tracks that are processed to fuck with slowed music and shit are probably going to contribute more than the amps.

watts are watts. you're worried about clarity in the frequency range the human ear is actually not very good at discerning.

i'll post some more later tonight. looking at the numbers, its clear what these drivers were designed for.

ok first pic. i thought I would start with the box recommendations posted on the tc sounds page and compare that what a btl enclosure usually is.

how do you think products are designed in the first place?

yep. i'm not the very knowledgeable when it comes to subwoofer and enclosure modeling but the LMS really looks like a sub designed for home theater. if you look at the product page on tcsounds.com you can see lots of low tune recommendations. i'll post a few.

http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/wizart383/media/btlspects.png.html found them

the only way to establish what the difference would be to model them. if you dont have a PC post the the correct t/s specs and i or someone else can do it for you. establishing a comparison based on opinion is worthless UNLESS that individual ran the same subs on the same power in the same enclosures and in the same vehicle you're installing this in. then maybe that persons opinion would be worth a shit. why the ZED audio amps? great amps but a system like this is just asking for theft problems. why not stick to cheap power, you won't hear a difference.