RAD

Holy chit, i missed that part Hope their high tensile, dont want them suckers shearing when you hit the skids!

Nah its just the one body ground, the amps are connected directly to the battery. I relocated the battery so i didnt have to have 2-3 runs from the engine bay. The one body ground looks dodgy, but it starts the car the instant you turn the key, and i've had no electrical probs running a 5kw amp. Damn, that reminds me i gotta upgrade my alt charge wire from 10g to 4g or 0g. Thanks for the comments guys

It's coming together fairly quickly, i'll have a full outer shell by tomorrow, minus the baffle. It seems to take you guys only a couple of days, but this is my first and its a huge learning step. Having only basic tools like a cordless screw gun and jigsaw doesnt help. Anyway: The back wall is going in, a sign that im getting closer...

Your best bet would be to hit up some bmx events, usually the larger interstate ones. That's what we used to do when trying to find obscure stuff like 1.5 rims and 2pc cranks. Or, ask through some of the old established bike shops, where the guy out the back would have a stash of old stuff dating to the 70's, not a new shop that started up 2 years ago.

Here's some more of what's going on for today... The roof in all its glory As you can see, the 0% tint works well! And i'm starting to add in the back from the wheel wells, to the end of the boot. I'm not going right back to the opening of the hatch, im leaving room for possible amps/second battery or a spare wheel. Til tomorrow...

Yeah it's simiar in a way, of all the wall threads i've been through on various forums, one thing that sticks out is that its really important to get a good solic floor laid out. That way, when you have to hit the skids and stop in a hurry, your wall doesnt crush you Except thats where the similarity ends for us, yours looks removable, while mines glued and screwed into the bodywork forever! Well, i got a treat from the postman, a pair of Mach5 IXL.18's Check the size compared to my Atomic APSPL10! I beefed up underneath the floor with 2x4" wood, so the floor wont flex in the dips where the spare wheel and fuel tank are And the rear quarters are on for good with some sikaflex and 2" chippy screws. The rear quarter windows have been blacked out completely, thanks to a $2 can of spraypaint. Just dont want anyone peeking at the car to see a wall of wood inside and get curious. The roof and window panes are in too, braced with an extra sheet of 3/4" MDF. Pics soon, just had lunch and i'm back to work!

Been watching this build for a little while now, and its sick (in a good way!)

Very nice amps. Do you plan to collect other brands, like Phoenix Gold/Orion/PPI etc?

Already paid for 2 IXl.18's, just waiting for them to show up on my doorstep

The box looks nice and clean, good idea with the 12" adaptor too!

Now for the stuff you'll actually be interested in! Yea the rest of the build isnt too interested, just me killing time until i could get my hands on the IXL.18's. Sorry if i posted quite a lot of replies, i'm not trying to up my post count or anything, just copied and pasted from another thread to this. ..... Anyway, this is where things get interesting for my little excel, cause It's time for a wall. First things first, out with the seats, the spare wheel and trims... In it's place will be 18mm MDF and 2x4" pine. It's hungry for it, so theres 4 sheets waiting to go in "Feed me MDF!" it cries Check out the sand it's decided to snack on, that's not good for it A couple of MDF offcuts fill the gap to make it sit level with the back. Screwed in above the fuel tank, 2-3mm too far with the drill bit and i'm gonna puncture the fuel tank How the floor sits That's all i got done today, not a whole lot cause it rained quite a bit and i had to keep stopping and starting. Will finish off the floor and work on the sides + top the rest of this week, see how much time i have.

---- From another build log ---- ------------------------------------- So, everythings just kind of being thrown in without much of an install, but i'm more interested in listening to it that looking at it. Mach5 still havent landed in aus yet, so i'm going with the Atomics for the meantime. Found an ex Atomic rep on ROE who pointed me in the way of a new box design for daily usage. 2.9 cubes @ 33.3hz. Crazy low tuning for an SPL sub that has a Fs of 45, but somehow it works. Plays quite low, into the high 20's, and has a fair bit of authority without losing much of their punch. Tried a hairtrick with these little guys, hairs were lifting up, but not covering the windows but they'll make plastic shopping bags dance happily enough. Moar pics: battery box needs a new lid, the 2150 is too big for the one supplied The box is wedged in tight, a perfect fit battery tray is bolted to the boot 9886 squeezed in USB extension is in a spare accessories bracket, im yet to fit the remote gain stealthily into the spare in the right, but you can see where it'll go Buckle up in the back ZOMG messy And runs going through the body. Laugh at Hyundai's attempt at sound deadening, that little patch doesnt help

---- From another build log ---- ------------------------------------- Something was waiting for me on my doorstep when i got home A big-ass surfboard. Epsilon EA-5000D I'm 6'4" and it's makin me look small. specs: Only need it to do half those ratings, but moar watts is always good. Check the pics, in either spot there aint much room left

---- From another build log ---- ------------------------------------- Now, with the Polk's having such a big bum on them, i had to cut moar from the pods to get any sound flowing into the door itself. Everything around the black line got Jigsawed off. Check the stock speaker i pulled out, can anyone say rusted? It died a deserving death. Anyway, poking around some SQ forums, the idea i got was that the bigger baffle opening you have, and the better seal to the door, the more midbass you get... So out comes some liquid nails, and whack on a bigger baffle 'Course the tinfoil hyundai calls sheet metal had to be cut... ... And its gone. Closed cell foar around the baffle, and little sheet of Dynamat for a rain roof. 12awg from the X-over to source should be plenty once i put an amp to it. All thats left is to put the door trims on. Played the doors off my new Phoenix Gold amp for the beemer, good feedback from my mates regarding the clarity, and theres plenty of midbass on the drum kicks and bass strings. This SQ thing is interesting huh? Still had a few hours left, so i thought i'd try doing the big 3 while i was at it. Overkilled it with 0g all round for the Batt > Engine block and Batt > Chassis. Nice 14.3v float off an old battery thats been kicking 'round the shed for years. Tried doing Alt > Batt, but the alternator would'nt take a 0g terminal. Tried 4g, which worked... But i cocked up by not disconnecting the battery negative first, and while i was tightening the nut to the positive post, my wrench touched the engine block. BANG! :shok: I crap myself quite well, and blew the alt fuse in the process, so now the car is immobilized. Least i learnt that the grounds work well

---- From another build log ---- ------------------------------------- Mock it up Tape it up Deaden it And have a listen Not loud cause its only off my headunit, but sounds fairly good, right down to about 50hz. It can actually play DJ billy E's 'beats 4 my van' fairly well. Only got to open up the baffle and use the 12awg instead of factory 20awg.

---- From another build log ---- ------------------------------------- Anyway, the stock speakers were giving me the craps, and the one in the drivers side door doesnt even work since the leads were rusted. After work, i stopped by a local pawn shop and found a pair of Polk Momo splits in pre-fab pods that fit the doors perfect, like so: Notice that the pods are mounted onto the wrong doors. Turns out i cant fit them properly because the bulge for the tweeters would hit the dash, so they had to be swapped over. Doors need a little deadening, picked up a pack of 6 DNA 12"x12" bitumen sheets. From my previous build on a BMW, i had this as a dynamat roller: But its gone missing, so i put together something just as crude: Paint roller with a piece of metal tube. With that in hand, i rolled said bitumen sheets onto the outer skin. And theres an extra layer of dynamat where the speaker sits. And now for the part that'll make you all go WTF. Chatting with a mate a few weeks ago, he mentioned he was working on an old VB commodore that had a cheapo install with a couple of 12" subs in it. He said instead of dynamat, they went the el cheapo route and used caulk, which was pumped into the boot lid, which worked a treat apparently. Since this is just an excel and not a beemer where parts are cheap, i'm taking a gamble and doing the same. Used an ad ahesive caulk thats apparently slightly elastic, but absorbs sounds/vibration. Pumped it around the side intrusion bars and gaps: Already, when you tap on the door, its a dull thud and not a hollow tinny ding, so something must be working. 6 sheets doesnt go far when your doing 2 coupe doors. Had to dip into the good stuff (spare dynamat sheets), but since its the drivers side its more important to have the good stuff here.

Hey guys, just thought i'd see if any of you were interested in checking out my progress walling my spare car. It's a 1995 Hyundai Excel (Accent for CAN/USA) hatch, pretty boring and poorly made car, but it's good enough to keep, cheap enough to sacrifice to be walled. Here's what the car looks like (not actual car) Had it for 5 months as a daily driver, i've had the front stage installed, battery and elec partially done, and a temp sub setup installed. But now it's time to go all out and have some fun with the subs. Sometime this week i'll be recieving two Mach5 IXL.18's, and the plan calls for 12cubes ported @ 30hz for some nice lows. Quick parts list for anyone who's interested: - Alpine 9886i Headunit - Polk Momo 6.5" splits - Epsilon EA5000D monoblock - Atomic APSPL 10's x2 - Magnat 360 classic 4ch amp - Odyssey PC2150 battery I'll copy and paste my posts from another forum into one post, for anyone who wants to see the previous work. Cheers, feel free to ask any questions.

Woo, Mach5 is half a week away from landing in Australia too. Do the IXL's come with the logo on the dustcaps? And what are the final coil configs, info on our website sais everything from dual 2ohm, to single 4 and 8ohms??

http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/gg317/t...shairtrick2.flv ^ correct link. Not a bad hairtrick for 12's

Would attract too much attention from the boys in blue. Any ETA on aussie prices of these subs yet mark?

I'd love to do IB in this car, getting the frequency down into the teens sounds hella fun. But since its a hyundai POS, i can see the hatch popping open on low notes

Thanks Mark, thats the perfect tuning i was looking for, and at 6 cubes they'll fit in easily!

Too heavy in output? No such thing What do these things like for ported in net cubes/tuning/port sqin?

Since Mach5 is heading down my way soon (Australia), i'd love to get one or more of these in my car, a 95 Hyundai Excel (Accent for you North Americans). I see everyones using them for HT setups, but no-ones using them in their rides, only the MJ-18's. Can it be done, or do i have to use the MJ's? Got 8-ish cubes in the back, or almost 20 if i decide to wall it Cheers.

Hi guys, just looked over your site and saw you shipped internationally. Wondering if you guys are able to ship to Australia, and if so, what would a (rough) estimation be to ship a Rlp-18 to Melbourne per driver? Cheers.