tezin87

I completely understand

I'm not trying to pressure you but one Kappa Perfect would be a 4 ohm load and it is rated for 350 rms, perfect match

Haha, thanks mrray for trying to help me get these sold.....I appreciate it.

I have two 12'' Kappa Perfects for sale on here for $150 for the pair. Single 4 ohm, would only use 2 cubes sealed.

that's some awesome work

I have two 12'' Kappa Perfects for sale on here for $150. They're no Icons, Magnum, or Fi but they sounded great on all types of music imo. Only 500 watts to the pair made them perform great.

what a d-bag.....

Ok, thanks for the tip.

bump

Just ordered the d1 10'' bl with p-chamfer and universal options. Thanks, Nick, for all the help and responding to my e-mails so quickly.

What should I use to mount the box to the cab?

thanks alot......the table saw made all the difference in the world. I was getting so frustrated with the jigsaw and circular saw.

Here are some pictures of the space I have to work with and the finished box without port/mounting hole

bump, is my idea of having the port on top ok? how bout mounting locations for the tweeters in the door?

I came home from work today and caulked the joints. The top and baffle are still off because I'm going to put the port on top when it comes in and I still need to order the bl.

Enclosure ended up being 1.38ft^3 so after the .11 displacement for a 10'' bl and 3'' aeroport that is 13'' long ( i read add an inch if using aeroports) that displaces .053, I will be right at 1.23@33hz.

so I've got everything glued and screwed besides the top and front baffle. I'm still trying to figure out where I should have the port before I finish putting it together. The box is 8'' deep so I can either have it on the top or on the baffle. Any suggestions? How would a 10'' bl do off 500 watts for a month or so before I can get a bigger amp?

Here is a picture of how its going to look....I still need to glue, screw, and caulk. I'm not putting the baffle on until I decide on which sub to get. I have 500watts @ 2ohms for temporary power until I pick up a bigger amp. I'm probably going to go with a dual 1 ohm because the new amp might not be for a little while because I still need to re-do my interior speakers, pickup 2 channel amp, get a new battery, new wires, and big 3. Also, heres a picture of my door....What would be the best place to mount the tweeters? Definitely can't do kickpanels because its a manual and I need the room down there. I'll probably get some p.g. rsd 6.5'' because I've heard good things for them being so inexpensive.

Yesterday I was using a jigsaw and a circular saw but my dad needed a new table saw anyways so he figured he might as well get one today. So that is going to help a ton. How long after I apply the glue should I apply the caulk? I'm using 1-5/8'' drywall screws, titebond 2, sillicon caulk, jigsaw, tablesaw, circular saw.

Ok so this is my first time trying to build an enclosure on my own so it will probably end up looking a little rough. I started cutting yesterday and some of the pieces didnt turn out so well so I'm re-doing a few today. I will have some pics up later tonight when I finish. The enclosure will be right around 1ft^3 with a 3inch aeroport after all displacements. I'll be picking up either a 10'' Icon or 10'' bl when I get some more money. I'm looking for a daily pounder that can replace two 12'' kappa perfects that were sealed. Do the flared precision ports need a special type of 90 degree elbow in order to make a bend or can I just use any old elbow?

how much? warranty?

don't go by peak go by rms

extended or regular cab?

what vehicle is this going in?